Life hasn't been the same since my GS went sour. A while back she had trouble starting and then she started running bad and in short (haha) was showing signs of a failed charging system.
I'll skip the chronological-order story for now, but I'll tell you what I know and then maybe you can tell me what you know.
The RR: I replaced this one with a supposedly near-new one from Ebay. It sure looks new. Now, here's the thing - I do the diode test, and I get .5V in one direction, like the troubleshooter on this site says, and then I flip it around, and I get 0V. This is the result with all three diodes, with BOTH the old and new rectifiers. I did hook the new one up and take a ride, but I did this test before that and found this result. It makes me think I either have a bad multitester, two improbably bad RRs, or a hole in my head.
The Stator: I got a new one on EBay with the RR, the guy threw it in for $10, saying it was "untested." Well, it turns out it wasn't worth 10 cents, because the thing had visible opens in the circuit - huge chunks of wire missing. I guess it will be useful if I try to rewind a stator, but the thing is, my old one looks FINE. Now, when I tested the old one in the bike, I was getting like 10V, maybe 15V out of the loops @ 4500 rpm. I read it should be 60V, so I figured maybe this was bad too. I don't remember what the resistance readings were. Anyway, I have the old one out now, and it looks fine, and it reads 1ohm for each loop.
The problem is, when I had the new RR and the old stator hooked up before, I was seeing about 12.5V at the battery. Not enough to charge, right? So what's the problem? Dirty connections (I cleaned 'em with an emory board though)? The wires from the stator don't seem to be continuous with each other or ground.
I can't figure it out. This bike also has leaking intake boots, and flaking clearcoat. Anybody want an '82 GS1100GK project bike?
-Dom
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