it hasn't been started since 1990

[Anonymous]

This bike looks very good, a 1978 GS550. It has been sitting in a garage 14 yrs and the gentlemen has agreed to sell it to me. I have yet to pick it up.

It has been stored w/o oil. (engine is free), gas tank has been drained as have brake lines. Tank has a bit of rust which I will need to address (rustol)

MY questions are:
1 carbs have been sitting and were not drained. Complete rebuild with kits or just a clean up?
2 Would I expect to rebuild brake parts? I am inclined to fill the up and bleed them and see what I have but I am not into wreckless abandon if that is where I am going.

Thanks

Rgierer

Is there anything thing else that should be addressed (besides basics of oil, plugs chain care etc.)

[KEITH KRAUSE]

I would replace every o-ring in the carbs (Robert Barr), also the manifold o-rings, besides a complete carb clean. If you completely split the carbs, be aware if you have a "T" fitting for the fuel line that's rubber coated, this fitting may leak upon re-install and is VERY hard to replace with a good one. If the "T" has o-rings, it's no problem with the Robert Barr o-rings. You can sometimes do a good cleaning job without taking the carbs off their mounting bracket, but you can do a better job if they're completely apart. Depends if there's any dirt, etc, in the fuel passages between carbs.
Because brakes are safety related, I would not trust the rubber parts after sitting that long.
I would replace the tires/tubes even if they "look" fine.
In my opinion, every connection on the bike should be cleaned, put together and given a shot of 30/30 or other electrical protectant.
The fork oil will need changing. Be prepared for hardened seals, also the shock seals.
If it came with a foam air filter, it's probably dried up and needs replacing.

[Anonymous]

Thak you,

I think you are telling me I have a shopping list of:

O rings from Robert Barr
Kits for brake claipers and master cylinders
Manifold O rings
Fork seals
Foam air filter

These sounds like the basic "out of the shoot" shopping list. Any reccomendations for a best source?

I have 2 weeks of over the first of the year and this could be something to amuse myself with if I have the rubbers I need.

RG

[bwringer]

I think it might worth a call to Cycle Recycle II in Indianapolis:

http://www.crc2onlinecatalog.com/

You can probably get most everything you need from them, and the advice from Rob Eberle will be invaluable.

On the carbs, do NOT replace any hard parts (needle valve and seat, jets, pilot screw) with the pitiful low-quality crap you'll find in a rebuild kit. Do everything you can to salvage and reuse the old ones or buy OEM. Just get the float bowl gaskets and the o-rings and go from there.

I learned this the hard way...

[focus frenzy]

Thank you,

I think you are telling me I have a shopping list of:

O rings from Robert Barr
Kits for brake calipers and master cylinders
Manifold O rings
Fork seals
Foam air filter

These sounds like the basic "out of the shoot" shopping list. Any recommendations for a best source?

I have 2 weeks of over the first of the year and this could be something to amuse myself with if I have the rubbers I need.

RG

some of the items on your list may not be needed.
you will need the carb o-rings, sitting that long with gas in the bowls they are going to be real nasty inside and it will take some work to get them good and clean.
the manifold o-rings might be ok, but you will have the carbs off so change them while you are doing the carbs, that way you don't have to pull them back off any time in the near future.
the brakes may be good, DOT3 brake fluid is hygroscopic (sp?) it draws in and absorbs moisture, and that causes rust, if the brake fluid was completely drained (good idea) there would be no brake fluid to draw in moisture and cause rust.
fill up and bleed the system and test it sitting in your garage.
squeeze the brakes HARD and hold it as long as you can, let off and make sure they release completely, repeat several times and inspect the caliper closely for any signs of leakage.
if it was stored inside the brakes will probably be ok.

also if the bike was stored inside, the fork seals are probably ok, there is a dust boot on the outside of the fork that protects the main fork seal. inspect the fork tubes, make sure there is no surface rust, if there is, a light steel wool will remove the light stuff and you can then look real close for any pitting.
pitting starts out as very tiny dark specs, if there is any pitting you will never get seals to last, but once again, if it was stored inside you should be ok.
if I am correct, the 550 uses a paper air filter with a foam outer pre-filter, they will both need to be replaced.
K&N list a replacement filter that is washable and is cheaper than a stock filter!

http://www.knfilterchargers.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=SU-5500

[Anonymous]

How do I connect with Robert Barr?

[KEITH KRAUSE]

I only meant "be prepared" for leaking fork seals. I didn't mean go out and buy them automatically. Sorry. You can always test them to see if the seals are going. I just thought I would mention those few things even though you sound like you're aware of what a stored bike may need.
I'm sure others here have some experience with what to do with a motor that's been sitting for so long. How to lube it in preparation for start up, etc. I would think there's no oil film left at all on vital parts. There's a paste that you apply to the cam lobes on new engines. That's the kind of things I'm talking about.
I would check the cam chain tensioner operation too before start up. Also, lube the mechanical timing advancer and the shaft. Clean the points.
Robert Barr is a member here. PM him.