'79 Suggestions /comments for improvements

[Anonymous]

I have a GS '79 850 with fairing and bags. It has 9000 hard miles on it. It sat out in the weather etc. before I got it and it was not covered or cared for. It runs and it has has had a pretty thorough routine checkup. The tank has been re-sealed and most of the body pieces have recently been repainted. I am planning to put heavier springs in the front end, replace the exhaust system-4into1? and would like to remove the stock airbox and add an oil cooler but I am not sure about parts, jetting, etc. I would appreciate any comments from people who have have some thoughts, experience, etc. on these or other ideas that might add to the rideability, etc. of this particular model. Thanks. Clock Watcher. 8O

[bwringer]

New tires ASAP! If they are more than two or three years old, the old tires are very dangerous, especially if they've been out in the weather. Hopefully you've already taken care of this...

Grease those rear wheel splines!

Intake o-rings!

http://bwringer.com/gs/intakeorings.html

Get Progressive springs up front and Progressive shocks out back. This is not just a go-fast issue -- the mushy stock springs and shocks are positively dangerous!

Stainless brake lines, budget allowing.

Replace every fastener you can get your hands on with stainless steel allen heads. You can get them at McMaster-Carr or MMS Accessories. McMaster is generally cheapest, but you might have to order 25 or 50 at a time:

http://mcmaster.com

http://www.mmsacc-stainless.com/metric/html/metric_allen.html

And finally, if it's not completely rusted out, do everything you can to keep the stock exhaust. Keep the airbox, too.

A bone-stock GS850 has a wonderfully smooth and effective powerband, and you will get the best results by keeping the stock intake and exhaust system, and making sure your airbox is well-sealed (seach the forum).

If you insist on pods and a pipe (or if the stock pipe and airbox are shot), at least you have the earlier carbs which should be easier to tune. You will need to raise the needle and go up a couple of jet sizes, or it will run horribly lean.

More goodies on my site here:

http://bwringer.com/gs/

And finally, good job for rescuing another GS850 from being parted out on eBay! It's a great bike, and you'll have lots of fun.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

As always, it all depends on how much effort and money you want to spend. I have a '79 GS1000E. I'm the original owner and I didn't mind spending a lot to upgrade it.
If you plan to keep the bike and ride a lot, I suggest the following.
Electrex Reg/Rec.
Dyna "S" ignition and coils.
NGK plug caps.
Progressive fork springs with a PVC spacer you make for your particular pre-load needs.
Progressive shocks.
Other upgrades I like:
Pingel fuel valve.
Napoleon mirrrors.
Drill the existing brake rotors or get slotted discs from a newer model. The rotors will squeal less, run cooler, shed water better, and the rotors are less likely to gall.
Stainless steel lines.
Replace every Phillips screw on the bike with Allens.
For the engine:
Vance and Hines chrome megaphone.
K&N oval filters.
Dyno-jet kit (if they make one ). If not, you'll have to try re-jetting with the stock needle and buying larger main and pilot jets. We can help you with this if you need it.
Cam timing of 106 degrees is a good compromise between top end and low/mid-range torque. Widest powerband too.
If the clutch basket is rattling, some shops will install heavier damper springs and weld it.

[bwringer]

The Dyna ignition and coils are a great idea. I have Dyna coils with the stock electronic ignition on my '83 850. On your '79, you'll want to get the Dyna ignition to replace the points.

The Electrex reg/rect and stator are also excellent ideas if you have a few $$$ to spare. They're a little expensive, but well worth it if you plan to ride much.

A Sylvania Silverstar H4 (9003) headlight bulb is another essential upgrade. With the same wattage, you can see a lot further. The downside is that they tend to burn out a little sooner, and they're $20 instead of $10. You can get them anywhere.

New steering bearings are another essential -- this may have been taken care of already, but most of these bikes develop a "notch" in the steering with the stock bearings. New ones are easily available for about $50.

Read the stator papers and make sure your reg/rect has a good ground. Check through all the wiring and make sure everything looks good.

[crc1214]

Call me a misfit, a dumbass, whatever............. but I have absolutely no idea why everyone is crazy about allen-head bolts. You can't use an impact screw-driver on them, and if you strip them, you're in BIG trouble.

Personally, I replaced all my phillips head engine screws with NEW phillips head screws. Put a good coat of anti-seize on them, and they'll rarely get stuck. And if they do......... a phillips head provides a lot of grab for an impact screw driver. You're at the mercy of the GS gods if you run into a stuck allen-head bolt!!!!

Just my two cents.

Chad
Columbus, OH 1978 GS550E

[Anonymous]

Socket head cap screws (Allen-head bolts) are FAR stronger than the run-of-the-mill Suzuki Phillips head screw.

With the proper size tool, they don't strip. They are far easier to torque to the correct value. And I've never needed an impact wrench to loosen them. Oh, did I mention they look better too, in my opinion?

As a mechanical engineer, I definately recommend alloy socket head cap screws over the traditional screws.


As far as the stock exhaust, my Kerker pipe is probably 30 lbs lighter than the stock exhaust. It looks better and flows better, too. Ditch the stock exhaust and raise the needle a notch or two to compensate.

[Guy]

Have to agree with billc. Why anyone would choose philips heads over allen heads is beyond me. There's no comparison. A little copperslip on the threads will stop them from seizing.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Personally, I replaced all my phillips head engine screws with NEW phillips head screws.

I never thought I'd see the day when someone said that! 8O I'm just messin' with you man, nothing nasty.
If you use the right size tool, they'll never strip.
If you did strip one, the head would actually be easier to grip with vise grips or whatever.
You can properly torque Allens.
They look very nice when chromed, to go with polished cases.
I've never had a single problem with Allens. I HAVE seen where people damage a metric Allen by trying to use a standard tool.

[saaz]

With Allen keys always use the right size key of good quality. Cheap allen keys only twist and cause damage to the bolt. Philips heads are ok if you always use the right sized bit and always use the impact driver to get them off.

You can use an impact driver with allen keys. Just get the box socket version of you allen keys, put them on the impact driver. You can also torque them up correctly as well with the torque wrench.

Allen keys throughout are on my list for the GS...just have never gotten around to it!

[crc1214]

In an effort to go down swinging.................

I did make sure the grade on the screws I replaced my originals with was good........... 10.7 grade.

If evaluated by a psychiatrist, perhaps he or she would conclude that my resentment toward allen head screws and bolts may actually stem from my disgust with my unusually odd shaped phallus, which resembles an allen wrench!

Heheheh........ just kidding. I'm very comfortable with everything about my phallus. That's why I own a 78 GS550E, and not a 04 Harley Sportster

Anyhow...... I just have never ran across an allen head bolt or screw that hasn't given me problems.

Conversely, I have never ran across a phillips head that I haven't been able to get out with minimal effort..

Chad
Columbus, OH 1978 GS550E

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Anyhow...... I just have never ran across an allen head bolt or screw that hasn't given me problems.

Conversely, I have never ran across a phillips head that I haven't been able to get out with minimal effort..

Chad

Allright! This isn't funny anymore!
Who are you and what have you done with our fellow GSer!?

[crc1214]

Keith, you are a true gentleman, diplomat and scholar.

Nobody has done anything with me, I'm still the craziest SOB in central Ohio!!!!

You'll know when someone has done something with me........ my posts will actually start making sense and flow in a logical pattern!!!!!

I don't mean to be a ham about this whole thing, I really don't!

I know it sounds crazy, but it's true! I'd just much rather deal with a phillips head than an allen head any day based upon my past experience.


Anyhow.......... I feel I need to make a suggestion to this guy that everyone will agree on..............

Budget permitting, get a sealed, maintenance free battery. You don't have to worry about spewing battery acid and also they tend to last a bit longer too.

Now see........ I'm not completely insane!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Just enough to keep it interesting !!!!!!!!!!!

Chad
Columbus, Oh 1978 GS550E

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Well, OK. The battery suggestion proves your still human.
But may I suggest, get rid of those phillips head screws for the battery connections and replace with ANYTHING!
Just kidding of course. We all know these screws are also hex heads.