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What is the redline for GS750E

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    What is the redline for GS750E

    Does anybody know what the shift redline is for an 83 GS750E?

    How much can you push it past this redline and still have it live?

    #2
    10k. I had my 700 up to about 11,500 once accidently, it had no pull with valves floating all over the place, luckily, it didn't break anything. The red line is as high as you should go, and the power drops off quickly afterward anyway, so there's no point.

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      #3
      It would probably be faster if you shifted around 8500-9000

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        #4
        There's really no need to go past 9k on the 750. It doesn't give you any more power past about 8000 any way....

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          #5
          Their is absolutely nothing to gain by pushing thru redline, you will only suceed in breaking something. Stock these bikes were set up fairly peaky and lean with the power really coming on at about 7000rpm. If you are running a stock valvetrain and cam chain tensioner, I certinely would not try to push beyond redline. Even with all the mods on my bike, I see no point in going beyond 9500rpm.

          You can make it much more streetable just by regearing- try using a 45 tooth rear instead of the stock 43. Good Luck, Ed.

          1983 GS750ED

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            #6
            Old School, why did you build up the rear of the seat like that? :?

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              #7
              To keep from sliding back under hard acceleretion. I removed foam from the front part and added to the rear before having it custom covered. It works real well. Ride On, Ed.

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                #8
                seat

                I was going to do the same as you on my 1000 but I took it to a guy at the upolstery shop and he recoverd it in 4 way stretch naugahyde and man you stick to the seat like your glued to it, but you still are able to get your butt off to the side in corners

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                  #9
                  Yes, in the race motors we work real hard at moving the torque peak rpm up. The shape of the torque curve essentially gives you a picture of your cylinder fill. As rpm goes up, you have less and less time to fill the cylinder and therefore it gets harder and harder to fill it and the
                  torque wants to drop. When torque is dropping faster than rpm is rising,
                  stick a fork in it, it's done. We do a number of things in the race
                  motors to try to keep the cylinder filled at high rpm, because
                  horsepower is torque times rpm and the higher rpm I can fill that
                  cylinder, the more power I'll make. That's the challenge. And the more
                  power I make, the more torque I can put to the rear wheel at any given
                  ground speed, and therefore the faster the bike can go.
                  A quote from a well known HD builder.
                  1166cc 1/8 ET 6.09@111.88
                  1166cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.70@122.85
                  1395cc 1/8 ET 6.0051@114.39
                  1395cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.71@113.98 "With a broken wrist pin too"
                  01 Sporty 1/8 ET 7.70@92.28, 1/4 ET 12.03@111.82

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                    #10
                    isn't that where the numbers turn red on the tach???






                    just bein' a punk :P

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