Float Levels

[Anonymous]

Hi everyone. I have a '83 GS550E. (the one with the Mikuni BSW30SS carbs). Does anyone know where to set the float levels? Assuming that you have to set them in both positions. I just got the bike, and rebuilt the carbs. I haven't put them in yet, so it would also be nive if any of you have any tuning suggestions for best performence. Thanks.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Come on you 550 members! Don't leave this guy floating. :roll:

[Kabonkie]

According to my manual:
Set the float level to 19.5 - 21.5 mm (0.77 - 0.85 in). According to the picture, which isn't too good, looks like the measurement is with the carb upside down with the float in the full up position. The measurement is between the area of the float chamber gasket to the top (or in this position, bottom) of the float.
To adjust bend the tang on the float arm.

Hope this helps, will be doing the same on mine in a couple weeks.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Also, the bowl gasket is to be removed before measuring. Unless the manual says otherwise.

[Anonymous]

Cool, I'll try that Thanks.

[Kabonkie]

And of course, don't forget the carb sync once you get them installed and the engine running. I've done this on both of my bikes, and it makes the biggest difference in performance and fuel economy.

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the tip, Kabonkie. Do you hve any advise on a sufficient way of doing that (I'm kind of new to the bike gig. Most of my mechanic experience is with cars). I know you use a syncing gauge, but what do you adjust after you hook the gauge up.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

The instructions with the vacuum tool will show you how to hook it up.
Motion Pro makes a simple/good vacuum tool for about $40. You need a good manual to show you how to synch. Preferably the Suzuki factory manual.

[Kabonkie]

I did one of my carbs today. The measurement for the float is from the edge to the top, or in the upside down position bottom, of the float. In other words, measure from where the gasket would be to the top of the float.
Syncing the carbs requires a syncing tool as Keith described. Once you set the idle speed, loosen the lock nut and adjust to the same reading on both carbs. You'll need adapters if you use the Motion Pro tool. (I know cause I own one). Remove the screws that plug the holes next to the engine on each carb. Install the adapters, hook up the hoses. Loosen the lock nut located where the throttles of each carb come together. Start it up, adjust the idle speed, then adjust the center screw so that both carbs register the same on the tool. This causes the throttles plates to open at the same time, instead of one prior to the other. Lock it down with the lock nut, check it again to make sure you didn't change it during lock down, remove the hoses and put the plugs back in. The book says to remove the tank for this, but I put a 2 x 4 under mine and it still feeds gas to the carbs and gives me enough room to work on the carbs.
You could use two vacumn gauges for this, but check the gauges to make sure they register the same on one carb and adjust one gauge until they do or you'll never get them in sync.

My other bike has 4 carbs on it. It had been 5 years since the last time I did it. I was down to getting 25 mpg, and wasn't getting much performance from it. Once synced, I'm up to 35 mpg and back to that hang on performace I didn't remember loosing.

And to agree again with Keith, buy the manual. I bought mine at the dealership. The procedure for syncing the carbs in well documented and with pictures. Plus once your up and running and need to do that tune up or oil change, you'll have all your specs.

[bwringer]

Some more info on carb synchronizing:

http://bwringer.com/gs/carbsync.html

I have some more pics and text to add to this if I ever get time, but this page and the links should help out quite a bit.