Shortest Flathead Screwdriver in the World

[ZacharyB]

Where is it? I need it to tune the pilot circuit on my '78 750e. two inches tall is doubly too long. :roll: What do you use to get at those pilot screws under the carbs? I was thinking of breaking a sawzall saw insert into thirds and using the stubby end.

[lukehan]

sears

I got a screw driver set kind of like this one

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00947103000

that came with two right angle screw drivers (lower left in picture) , slot and philips that would work with about an inch clearance, you can probably buy them separately as well.

LS

[frosty5011]

I use these. Had to get a little bit of a longer bit than what came with the "finger screwdriver", but works fine for adjustments with the fuel pilot screws.

[Flatline_Racing]

Or if they move easy enough you could just use a screwdriver bit that you would use in a drill or one of those multi bit screw drivers and turn it with a pair of pliars

[Planecrazy]

Or if you want to get "fancy," take a screwdriver bit (that you've degreased thoroughly), set it vertically in the center of a juice bottle cap, and fill the cap with JB weld or similar epoxy. When it hardens you have a low profile screwdriver with a wide enough "head" to apply sufficient torque to any stubborn screws.

Enjoy!
Steve 8)

[earlfor]

You dont want to even THINK of turning the pilot fuel screw with a pair of pliers on a bit. They should turn easily enough holding a bare, short, greasy driver bit between two greasy, slippery fingers. If they dont, something is wrong.

The drawback to setting the pilot fuel screws with the carbs mounted in the bike is that adjustment precision is nonexistant. It is impossible to adjust the screws precisely and consequently, the end result of a tuning job is lousy.
Idle range running will be about useless unless you just happen to get lucky.

Earl

Or if they move easy enough you could just use a screwdriver bit that you would use in a drill or one of those multi bit screw drivers and turn it with a pair of pliars

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Once cleaned, they should turn easily. The factory applies a sealant to them that can make them hard to turn. Be careful if they are tight. Never seat them too tight either. Just lightly.
After a lot of tinkering, you can get them set pretty close. Don't be surprised if they end up set a little differently from each other. The carbs have to be synched with a vacuum tool to get accurate plug reads and to allow you to fine tune. If the carbs aren't synched well, you can't trust the plug reads. You would then be just making compensating adjustments.
The screwdriver I use is about 2 1/2" long with a very thin (1/2" dia) handle. I use a mirror too.
Why are you adjusting them?

[AOD]

I gave up on adjusting mine on the bike...

Since I can remove the carb rack in 4 minutes, I just take them off to make adjustments.

~Adam

[Dark Jedi]

I have a tool, meant for adjusting the carbs during sync...

Looong handled screwdriver, with a very short 90 degree bend at the end. The handle spins, turning a shaft inside, which spins the bit on the end.

It works wonders on a LOT of adjustables in tough spots.

[ZacharyB]

Cool replies,

I cleaned the carburetors. These are the same carbs in this thread: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ic.php?t=27848

They are synchronized. I wouldn't know how to tune the pilot circuit off the bike, so I need that shoooort flathead. The replies gave me some good ideas. Then just turn the pilot screw out until the highest idle is achieved, then turn it back in a smidgen and reset the idle speed. One carb at a time. [/url]

[bgk]

I simply took a "stubby" standard screwdriver over to my bench grinder, and ground down the sides of the metal end to narrow it to fit the screw heads, and then turned the screw driver around and ground down the plastic handle end.

It fits the screw heads and my hand perfect, and fits nice between the starter motor cover "bump" and #2 carb. It took me about two minutes to grind it, and I now keep it in my tool kit on the bike.

[Jethro]

Maybe I'm stupid, but I don't understand this post. You guys aren't adjusting your carbs with the fuel tank on, are you? Because pretty much anything you do to your carbs (yes, even the mixture screws only) and you should be synching the carbs at the same time. I use a regular small sized screwdriver about 6 inches long. No problem at all- as long as the tank is off.

[Jethro]

I'm sorry- once again I replied to the post without reading the whole thing. The 78 models must have different carbs that have pilot adjustments. My bikes only have mixture adjustments on top of the carbs.

[bgk]

Jethro,

You're not stupid. You just didn't know (or remember) that pre-1980 GS bikes have Mikuni VM carbs, which are totally different from the 1980-onward Mikuni CV carbs.

The VM carbs have separate fuel screws and air screws, whereas your CV carbs just have MIXTURE screws.

The fuel screws on VM carbs are accessed from directly underneath the carbs, and can be a real b-tch to get to and adjust, if you don't have EXACTLY the right size screwdriver.

To complicate things further, with the VM carbs, you can't see the fuel screw heads on #2 and #3 carbs, with the carbs mounted on the bike, so you have to "go by feel" or use a small mirror (I use a mirror made for dental hygienists).

It's a challenge, but I have managed to overcome it with large quantities of beer and patience!

[Jethro]

It's a challenge, but I have managed to overcome it with large quantities of beer and patience!

Well, I'm glad you added patience to the mix!