1150 RPM's

[mike J]

What should a stock (or close to stock) 1150 rev to in say 3rd gear on a flat level road? TIA, Mike

[earlfor]

Re: 1150 RPM's

It will peg the tach. Watch it that you dont blow it up.

Earl

What should a stock (or close to stock) 1150 rev to in say 3rd gear on a flat level road? TIA, Mike

[Dink]

I assume you mean speed at redline , mine is over 180 @ redline in third.
BTW they will peg the tacho in any gear; even top, given enough roadway.
Dink

[kz]

Mine is about 160 km/h at redline in third gear.

Gear ratio is stock.

The speedo is digital, and shows less (real speed?) than what the stock speedo did.

[Anonymous]

Like earl said, in 3rd gear it should just keep going till engine trouble is almost a sure thing. As far as speed in 3rd, I don't know, but in 5th it's apprx 15 mph, per 1000 rpm. 9000 rpm = apprx 135 mph,

[mike J]

The redline on the tach starts at 9K. That's about where my bike runs out of breath. I bought this bike not running and am trying to get it running correctly. I just don't have anything to compare it to (another 1150). So are you guys saying that it should rev to 12K if I pushed it that hard? MIKE J

[earlfor]

Assuming the ignition timing is spot on, the valve adjustment is correct, valve timing is spot on, carbs are balanced and adjusted correctly for mixtures, the coils are up to specs, you have no intake boot leaks, the airfilter is not dirty, no one has changed the sprocket gearing and your compression is within specs, then yes, it will run the tach right off the scale in 3rd gear.

Earl :-)

The redline on the tach starts at 9K. That's about where my bike runs out of breath. I bought this bike not running and am trying to get it running correctly. I just don't have anything to compare it to (another 1150). So are you guys saying that it should rev to 12K if I pushed it that hard? MIKE J

[Dink]

Assuming the ignition timing is spot on, the valve adjustment is correct, valve timing is spot on, carbs are balanced and adjusted correctly for mixtures, the coils are up to specs, you have no intake boot leaks, the airfilter is not dirty, no one has changed the sprocket gearing and your compression is within specs, then yes, it will run the tach right off the scale in 3rd gear.

Earl :-)

The redline on the tach starts at 9K. That's about where my bike runs out of breath. I bought this bike not running and am trying to get it running correctly. I just don't have anything to compare it to (another 1150). So are you guys saying that it should rev to 12K if I pushed it that hard? MIKE J

Yup
Dink

[mike J]

Earl, None of the above has been checked. As you are probably aware I have been fighting a carb problem (Dynojet Kit). I have it much closer now and I'm getting ready to start looking at the detail items you mentioned. A question or two, what do you set the intake and exhaust valves to (clearance)? When setting the valves do you put a feeler under each tappet on the rocker arm and set them that way or do you set each tappet seperate? What should compression be on a warm motor? I use a Snap-On compression gauge and if you ever been through the compression gauge musical chairs then you know what I'm talking about. Also I remember you talking about the coils. I want to check them too. This bike had some aftermarket coils wire tied to the frame when I got. I bought some stock coils off E-bay because they fit the space correctly. Do you check the Ohm resistance through the plug wires and or the wire terminals? Also how do you determine the ignition timing is spot on? Do you need to check the timing marks with a dial indicator? Thanks for the help, Mike J

[kz]

Assuming the ignition timing is spot on, the valve adjustment is correct, valve timing is spot on, carbs are balanced and adjusted correctly for mixtures, the coils are up to specs, you have no intake boot leaks, the airfilter is not dirty, no one has changed the sprocket gearing and your compression is within specs, then yes, it will run the tach right off the scale in 3rd gear.

Earl :-)

Correct, even if not all of the above mentioned things are 100% OK.

[Anonymous]

When setting the valves do you put a feeler under each tappet on the rocker arm and set them that way or do you set each tappet seperate?

They should be done as a pair, to avoid twisting the rocker on the shaft and gettting a false reading. No idea on your 1150, but clearances (cold) on my 82 1100 are 0.07 - 0.12 mm (0.003 - 0.005 in) for both intake and exhaust. Set them to the loose side of that range, of course.

Mark

[kz]

What should compression be on a warm motor?

11 - 15 kg/cm2,

lower limit 9 kg/cm2

max difference between cylinders 2 kg/cm2

Test at full throttle and warm engine.

[kz]

Also I remember you talking about the coils. I want to check them too. This bike had some aftermarket coils wire tied to the frame when I got. I bought some stock coils off E-bay because they fit the space correctly. Do you check the Ohm resistance through the plug wires and or the wire terminals?

You can test both:

Primary = coils 12 V side = 2 -5 Ohm
Secondary side = coils spark plug side = between the two spark plugconnectors = 30 - 40 kOhm

[kz]

No idea on your 1150, but clearances (cold) on my 82 1100 are 0.07 - 0.12 mm (0.003 - 0.005 in) for both intake and exhaust.

1150 valve clearance spec.

0,08 - 0,13 mm, cold, both intake and exhaust. (not that big difference to the 1100 )

[earlfor]

I believe Karl and Mike have taken care of the questions. :-)

Earl