Cam chain tensioner spring - GSX1100EX

[bummers]

Does anybody know if it is beneficial to replace the cam chain tensioner spring on a GSX1100EX ('81) with a new &/or stronger one (after 23 years)?

I'm thinking the whirring noise coming from my engine was something
to do with the cam chain tensioner & blades, even though the chain
still measures under the service limit. The blades look a bit worn
with some smallish cracking visible on the surface.

I'm replacing the chain & blades.

Bummers

[Anonymous]

I wouldn't think a different spring would help. The spring only takes up the slack when there is slack there anyway.. The wedgetype thing in there is what keeps the slack from coming back.

[Scud]

What you might try if you think there is excessive 'slack', is that you can add a couple of turns to the spring. If you look at the spring on the tensioner you can see that it is bent at a ninety degree angle and stuck into the knurled knob in a small hole, just unhook it, add a turn or two, and stick it back in the hole, you will gain more tension on the spring.


Scud

[bummers]

Actually I was talking about the spring inside the tensioner.
The one outside, behing the knob, doesn't do anything once the tensioner shaft is locked - does it?
The internal one is the one that keeps the presure on the cam chain, as I understand it.

Bummers

[Hap Call]

Actually I was talking about the spring inside the tensioner.
The one outside, behing the knob, doesn't do anything once the tensioner shaft is locked - does it?
The internal one is the one that keeps the presure on the cam chain, as I understand it.

Bummers

If this is a stock bike with no major engine modifications, I wouldn't be worried about the internal spring. It is only used wheb you are setting the cam chain tension when the motor is not running. Basically you turn the motor so that the cam chain slack is on the side closest to the tensioner. Then you go through the adjustment procedure that is described in the shop manual. When you tighten down the lock screw the plunger will not move at all...it is no longer automatic and the chain has no effect.

I would be more concerned about the condition of the cam chain guides.

Hap

[KEITH KRAUSE]

What you might try if you think there is excessive 'slack', is that you can add a couple of turns to the spring. If you look at the spring on the tensioner you can see that it is bent at a ninety degree angle and stuck into the knurled knob in a small hole, just unhook it, add a turn or two, and stick it back in the hole, you will gain more tension on the spring.

Scud

That is what I did to my tensioner when the chain (almost new) was making noise. After taking the tensioner apart, I could see the entire travel range of the knurled knob/assy was not under spring pressure anymore. Judging by where the end of the spring hooks into the knurled knob, the travel range of my tensioner was about 7:00 to 5:00. The fine external spring had lost strength and was not applying pressure to turn the knurled knob past 1:00.
I turned the spring back C-C-W one turn. The tensioner has worked fine since and the cam chain is quiet.