Valve Clearance!! Hard Starting after being run!! Help

[Anonymous]

Bike info:
-1986 GS550ES
-I have cleaned the carbs
-battery has been completely dead before (when I bought it) and (I think) boiled off most of the electrolyte on my last long trip. Refilled with distilled water and keep it on a smart charger most of the time. A cheap hydrometer says it's keeping a charge ... but I just have doubts
:roll:

-I checked my clearance and they were off a little, So, I made some adjustments (when the engine was cool) but now I notice that it is rougher than before.
+First Question: Is there supposed to be a difference between two valves, or should they be the same?
Is there supposed to be a difference between the Intake and Exhaust valves or should they be the same?
My shop manual says 0.08-0.13mm for all.
It ran smoother with them differing ... any thoughts?

+Second Question: After starting the engine and going thru traffic and town and shutting it off to goto a store or something. When I go to start it again, with the engine warm, it denies me. ALTHOUGH, if I push start it, it USUALLY starts right up ... except a couple times when I had to use starting fluid =P
So, what's going on here?

Thank you thank you, in advance
Ken

[Anonymous]

A battery that boils its electrolyte off would suggest overcharging. I'd check out the voltage regulator and the rest of the charging system with the fault-finding chart in the GSR. A quick check on the battery with a voltmeter should give you about 12 or 13 volts with the engine idling, rising to 14.5 volts at about 5000 rpm. More than 14.5 and it's overcharging. Make sure your battery is fully charged for these tests.

Hard starting is also a sign of charging problems and/or a dying battery. Your bike starts okay at home because the battery's been on charge, but the bike's charging system can't keep it that way and you need a bump start to get home. Unfortunately, a faulty r/r unit can lead to generator (stator) failure or damaged batteries on a GS so check out everything.

I don't think your valve adjustments caused any of this. All valve clearances need only be within the specified range.

[Anonymous]

Re: Valve Clearance!! Hard Starting after being run!! Help

-I checked my clearance and they were off a little, So, I made some adjustments (when the engine was cool) but now I notice that it is rougher Ken

After any valve adjustment it is always a good idea to synch your carbs.
This should make your bike run smoother again.

As Rich said earlier, check your electronics.

[moto_dan]

You said you adjusted your valves when the engine was "cool"? The engine needs to be stone cold, like sitting overnight before adjusting your valves, else clearances may not be accurate.

[Anonymous]

I'm sorry ... I meant cold ... it had sat for more than 12hrs.
I wasn't thinking that the valves had anything to do with the battery problem ... it's just that the bike has 28k on it and I don't know when the last time they were checked.

Thank you all for the input.

I will have to check the voltage outputs again ... the day it boiled was one of the hottest days around the 4th of July and it ran for about 5hrs. Still sounds like overcharging then? What would I need to think about replacing then?

As for checking the electrical system, rectifier and such ... I tried to check it earlier and couldn't get readings. I only have a Radio(crap)shack digital multimeter and know that it does not respond quickly with readings. Since the bike would still start and run, I was chalking it up as a crappy meter. Don't get me wrong, the meter does work.

Thanks again.
Ken

[SqDancerLynn1]

any cheep $10 meter will work Battery should read 12.6 volts when charged. when running should read 12.6-13 Idle to 14.5 max at 5K RPM

[Anonymous]

Even on a hot day and with continuous running, your battery shouldn't be boiling and the only reason I can think of for that is overcharging due to a faulty regulator/rectifier unit. Those infamous Suzuki r/r units don't like heat and maybe the hot day and long ride contributed to yours failing.

I'm kinda guessing that it's the r/r unit at fault from the symptoms you descibe but before you go to the expense of getting a replacement, do the electrical tests first.

Your digital meter should be fine (I just use a cheap analogue one) but if it won't settle down, make sure the bike's ignition isn't interfering with it. Happened to me once on a Kawasaki when I had to call roadside assistance for a dead battery - the guy couldn't get a stable voltage reading until he stood six feet back with the multimeter extended with a pair of jump leads! Just a thought.