I removed the sacred ey on a VM. Now what??

[Anonymous]

Thank you

RG

[earlfor]

Anytime. You're most welcome.

Earl :-)

Thank you

RG

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Just to add: the pilot fuel screws come set at different settings, depending on the bike. I've seen them set on stock bikes anywhere from 1/2 to a little past 1 full turn. That's why I suggested the 3/4 turn as a starting point. You'll almost certainly have to test and make adjustments. 3/4 turn will most likely not start you off by fouling the plugs. Nobody can say for sure. It takes testing. If indeed your screws were set at 1/2, then you'll find out 3/4 is too rich. But you won't stain/foul the plugs, they'll just run darker. If your stock settings were closer to a full turn out, then 3/4 will be too lean, but that's easy to adjust for and going leaner to richer is easier to read the plugs and what your adjustments are doing to the color. Only when jetting the pilot circuit would I say this makes it easier. With the needle and main circuits, it's better to jet richer to leaner.
Also, you said the pilot and main jets were tightened lightly and not backed off. The brass jets are never backed off, so you're OK there. But these jets should be tightened firmly, such as 2 ft/lb. If just lightly tightened, they'll probably vibrate loose over time.

[Anonymous]

Thank you

That clarity was helpful.
RG

[Anonymous]

When I reattach the carbs to the plate, Is there a specific order the carbs should go in or are all carbs alike?

RG

[KEITH KRAUSE]

When I reattach the carbs to the plate, Is there a specific order the carbs should go in or are all carbs alike?

RG

Each carb has to go back the same way. Some easy things to see:
#1, on the far left as you are sitting on the bike, will have its side air screw facing out towards the left and also should have a brass nipple for one of the floatbowl vent lines.
#2, will have its side air screw facing out towards the left, no brass nipple.
#3, will have its side air screw facing out towards the right and should have a brass nipple for the vacuum line. It will have about a 1/2" hole on its right side to accomodate the fuel fitting.
#4, will have its side air screw facing out towards the right and have a brass nipple for the other floatbowl vent line. #4 will also have about a 1/2" "hole" on its right side plugged (no fuel fitting).
Be sure to use blue lock-tite to secure the 8 Phillips screws.
Also, always test the fuel "T" fitting and other two fuel fittings for leaks before mounting the carbs.

[earlfor]

Each carb must be reinstalled in the same position it was removed from.
The number 1 carb (left side) only has a fuel Tee on its right side to join the the carb beside it. #2 carb has a fuel Tee on both sides. # 3 carb has the vacuum fitting on it for the petcock and a fuel Tee on both sides and is the control carb for synching. #4 carb only has fuel Tee on its left side.

Earl

When I reattach the carbs to the plate, Is there a specific order the carbs should go in or are all carbs alike?

RG

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Be sure to install new manifold o-rings. Apply some hi-temp' bearing grease to help them last and torque to 6 ft/lb.
To make your carb vacuum synch go easier/quicker, synch the slides by eye first. The slides need to be synched for both the fully closed and fully open throttle positions.

[Anonymous]

Thank you to your prompt attention to my needs.

The rest of this week will be spent trying to locate metal fuel tubes.

I will be sure to ask you any other truly stupid questions I can think of. You have been more than gracious.


FYI

I went out for a 2 hour ride on my GK this morning. It was 20 degrees F when I left and 34 when I returned. My trip home felt positively balmy in camparison to the trip out.
RG

[KEITH KRAUSE]

OK. Ask anytime. Good luck finding the metal fittings with replaceable o-rings. Only a salvage yard with "junk" or "parts" carbs will let you take their carbs apart or sell just the fittings. Like I said, the better fittings are rarer than the rubber coated ones. Hope you're lucky and find some, or hopefully your rubber coated ones will be OK.
I mentioned the leak problem because it has happened to me before. There are other times when the rubber coated fittings worked just fine. It seems to depend on how long the carbs were sitting dry.

[Anonymous]

Does it make any difference which carbs the fuel inlet is placed between?

rg

[earlfor]

Yes it does. The fuel Tee goes between carbs 2 and 3. Carbs 1 and 2 are interconnected for fuel and carbs 3 and 4 are interconnected. Vacuum tubes are set up the same way. It could probably be made to work with the fuel Tee located differently, but you would have the predicament of one side of the Tee having to feed 3 carbs and the other side only feeding 1 carb. I imagine you would have fuel supply problems.

Earl

Does it make any difference which carbs the fuel inlet is placed between?

rg

[Anonymous]

Just a bit of positive feedback. Carbs are back on the bike. With minor screwq twists it is running well. I still have syching to go but it won'tbe today.

Thanks to all for their time, patience and generosity.

RG