1327 turbo

[Anonymous]

Looking for info for a custom turbo project. I have a gs 1100 which is now a 1327 engine with 8 to 1 compression. What would be a good setup for drag racing, blowthrough or drawthrough, type of turbo etc. Maybe someone has a setup the same or close to this and could help me out. Calling all turbo guru's.....

[Dink]

Blow through makes more power :twisted: EFI makes more power :twisted:
Dink

[Anonymous]

Someone must have some info..........

[rosco15]

try on dragbike.com or psychobike.com. Alot of guys there running turbo's.

[massakins]

Drawthrough is old school, well sorted combinations are available and used parts are plentiful; good for 300+ hp without too much sweat on your motor. Blowthrough is current rage, especially when combined with fuel injection, is not quite as widely known nor are used combinations available; use this for 350-500 hp but bring your wallet. So, what's your pleasure? Both are equally well suited to drag race.

Pick one and we can go into a bit more detail. The combinations will vary some in regards to the specifics.

[Anonymous]

turbo Info

Hello Hope U had a safe happy holiday

You can contact Larry Taylor at TurboLt@aol.com. He has a 1327 cc turbo GS.
Link onto GS gallery and go to 1981 and he is the first pic in this area and it shows a pic of his old bike but he has since built a nice 1327 cc turbo gs inot a gs 750 frame. It pushes 300 + HP at the rear wheel.

Good luck ! Archie

[marcovandevelde]

Hi Pothole,
I'm just finishing my GS(x) 1168 with a blowthrough carbs type turbo. Blowthroughs are much better in feeding every cylinder the exact amount of fuel you want to give it, whereas a drawthrough will swirl it in the chamber and you have to guess whether the fuel gets in evenly. Fuel injection is even better but expensive. I'm kinda going my own style after reading about poorly idling drawthroughs, which are fine for your wide-open-throttle dragracing purpose but not so good for everyday street-use. Anyway, I put a modern Garrett VNT20 turbo between the sidepanels, made a linkpipe through the swingarm from the std. 4-1 and exit on the left side. The compressor feeds a homemade plenum in carbon/glassfibre/epoxy and connects to the carbs, which are standard exept for a pressurised float bowl and slightly upped main jets. I also plan to use waterinjection for high boost runs.
I'm far from being a turboguru but this setup will give me a nice street-able turbo (if that exists... ) with about 200-250 HP. Be prepared to shell out over $500 for strengthening of your block (HD studs, adj. cam wheels, copper head gasket, strengthened clutch, and you MUST weld your crank) if it is not already installed.
For that oldskool feeling a Mr. Turbo drawthrough setup will be fine and there are loads of people making good use of it. Actualy there is one on Ebay right now, although it needs a little work.

Look at http://www.bigccracing.com/welcome.asp?page=21
or http://www.turbogsxr.tk/ or http://www.turborick.com/main.html or http://www.dragbike.com/ or http://www.stripbike.com/ for more info.

If ya want pictures send me you private mailadress.

Keep us posted!

Greetz, Marco.

[Anonymous]

The engine, trans, head, and clutch has all the good stuff done to it.I would like to get around 300 hp at the wheel, will be drag racing it only.
It will propably be a blowthrough but will not have fuel injection. marcovandevelde I would like some pics thanks I will email you later.

[marcovandevelde]

Hi Pothole,
If all the work has been done to the motor, you're in for a good start! Also check wether it has straigthcut primaries or it will break down in dragracing. Here in The Netherlands there is this guy that is also doing a top-level DIY streetclass dragbike with a drawthrough, he uses a Mikuni HSR 45 carb which is supposed to eliminate all earlier idling and fuelling problems with for example an S&S. He also uses a ball bearing turbo so you don't need separate oilfeed/ return.
Here it is http://oldskoolsuzuki.info/index.htm...page2.htm~main
Another advantage of a blowtrough is that you can use intercoolers too.
The best option is to put the turbo in front of the engine, like for example a turbobusa has it (see http://www.superkaos.com/ ), instead of mine which has a long linkpipe to the turbo which is between the sidepanels. I did it this way to have a gravity oildrain instead of having to use a pump to get the oil back in the sump. Also it's easy to do.

Talk to you later, greetings, Marco.

[Anonymous]

Hey marcovandevelde pretty nice job, Good looking bike. Whats the ar rating on your turbo.

[marcovandevelde]

Hi Pothole,
A/R is .45, It's a Garrett VNT 20 off of an Audi A6 2.5 TDI rated 180hp.

Decided on a system yet?

Greetings, Marco.

[first timer]

hey marco how about sharing some pics with everyone.

-ryan

[Anonymous]

Sort of leaning towards a T3, AR 60 not quite sure yet. Still searching for a more info.

[marcovandevelde]

Hi First-timer,
As soon as the thing is tested and dynoed, I'll put the pics on a host and post it here as a project. People here are very interested but as it doesn't run yet I feel I can't give you guys the ''full picture''.
It'll be running end of januari (2005!)

See ya, Marco.

[marcovandevelde]

Hi Pothole,
It's comparable with a T3 I guess. A T2 certainly is too small even with the biggest trim and A/R available, I know this because I was going to have a T2 rebuilt and the guy said it would overspin and die soon if I used it.

Again I'm not an expert, but I use the following ''rules'':
-Take a turbo off of a car that makes about the same or a little below the power you want
-Take the revs of the car at which max. power happens and do this times displacement
-Take your bikes est. revs at which you want to have max power, again times your displacement

The two flowfigures should be close to each other.

A diesel turbo making 180 hp will be making much more on a petrol engine.

For your competition setup I would ask a good turboshop to calculate the turbo for you.

Marco.