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three questions 1978 GS550EC

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

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This bike has been sitting since 1990 until I purchased it in late November. Brakes are done and carbs are coming along nicely.

I have chatter, which I believe is from the cam chain tensioner. Is the only way to clean it to remove the carbs again or is there a way to clean it on the bike?

The clutch engages at the very end of the lever. Adjusting doesn't seem to impact it. It seems to work fine (no slippage) and shifts smooth and easily. Is this something I should be concerned about? It is very different from the clutch on my GK.

My gear shift indicator worked until I did the carb work and now it doesn't give me a full number in the indicator. It lights, shows nuetral, but no number I can read. Any guidance?

I won't work on it until next weekend.

RG
 
You can remove the tensioner without removing the carbs, but it so fiddly as to be not worth it.
Anew clutch cable should fix the travel problem.
Do you really need a gear indicator anyway??
Dink
 
Thanks for the info.

I thought there may be some magik lubricant I could run in the engine for a few minutes and it would clean up the cam chain tensioner but I really didn't think so.


I guess I can never have too much practice removing carbs.

I know I don't need a gear indicator I just like things to work.

RG
 
There is a plug for the indicator (at least there was one on my 81 750)
inside the headlight shell that connects it into the harness. Its possible in wrestling the carbs out, or pulling on the harness, you pulled something loose. Also run down the wires that come out of the left side sprocket cover.
The lead for the gear indicator should be in the cluster.

Earl


rgierer said:
I know I don't need a gear indicator I just like things to work.

RG
Click to expand...
 
thanks

It would not be the first wire I pulled loose wrestling the carbs. I had to start it with a screwdriver until I found the wire I pulled off for the starter button.

RG
 
If you remove the cam chain tensioner for inspection, you know about the set screw to lock the shaft in place before removal, etc? The fine outer spring commonly loses tension, which can be fixed by winding the spring back one full turn. Also, the seal and two o-rings inside (if like mine) sometimes leak after being disturbed. Best to order them and replace them. Just my experience.
 
Also, order some manifold o-rings if you remove the carbs. If it's been awhile since they were changed, they probably need replacing. Save you from taking the carbs off again.
 
Keith, I know you are 100% right and I even have the o-rings for the manifold but those phillips head screws are not interested in moving and I am a bit fearful of creating a god awful mess that will call for an act of god to resolve. I am happy to replace those bad boys but it seems to be as big a job as rebuilding the carbs. Any guidance?

R
 
rgierer said:
Keith, I know you are 100% right and I even have the o-rings for the manifold but those phillips head screws are not interested in moving and I am a bit fearful of creating a god awful mess that will call for an act of god to resolve. I am happy to replace those bad boys but it seems to be as big a job as rebuilding the carbs. Any guidance?

R
Click to expand...
Yes, I know they can be tight.
You really need to find a bit that fits very well. This may mean going out and getting one, not just using the closest fitting bit in your garage.
I also always use an impact driver and a large hammer. I've always had good luck removing them. Sometimes you just have to get a "feel" for it. If you start twisting the driver just before the hit, you can round out the Phillips. You have to hit and apply pressure at the same time. Of course, make sure the driver is twisted in the right direction before using. I would not attempt loosening these screws with just a regular screwdriver, no matter how well it fits.
It may help to spray a little penetrating lube first, as long as you wipe it out of the bit area before trying. Give the screw a good solid whack or two with the impact driver before trying too. This may help loosen the threads up.
If you do mess up the heads, you can still cut or pound a slot into the head and try it with a slotted screwdriver bit the same size as the tool you used to make the new slot. Some members here even use a dremel to cut the heads off I hear. Hopefully, you won't get to that piont.
I really think the o-rings should be replaced and those cursed Phillips replaced with Allens though.
Just use a good fitting bit/impact driver and I think you'll be fine. If your screws have previous damage, it can help to use a LITTLE larger bit than would have been necessary with perfect screws. Place the bit into the screw and give it a good whack to help seat the larger bit first. Then procede with another good whack or two to try to loosen the threads up.
Be sure to apply some hi-temp' bearing grease to the new o-rings to help them last and torque the new Allens to 6 ft/lb. Good luck! :)
 
At the risk of sounding thick.....Does the airbox actually come out of there so I can increase access with a hammer?

R
 
rgierer said:
At the risk of sounding thick.....Does the airbox actually come out of there so I can increase access with a hammer?

R
Click to expand...
Yes it comes out. I've had pod filters for years now, do I don't remember exactly. If similar to my '79 1000:
You have to remove the filter housing under the seat first. Just a bolt and a large hose clamp that attaches it to the main box. Then a couple of bolts are at the top of the main box as best I remember.
Like many GS's', getting the carbs and airbox back on is a lot of fun. :roll:
 
I've successfully removed the intake boot phillips screws with an impact driver and no drama. My hammer stroke was too long for the inside screws, so I had to think of something. In the end I ended up managing to impact-drive off the top or bottom phillips screw and then using the boot itself like a wrench, twisting it to the side to undo the other screw. I put them back on after replacing the o-rings but I didn't make the phillips screws tight enough out of fear! I took them off again easily and replaced the phillips screws with nice-looking black allen screws (black is grade 6 I think) a hardware store near me had. Now I was able to torque them properly too.
 
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