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    #46
    I love that web movie - All your bass belong to us! What a classic, but I guess you had to be there

    -jon
    16 KTM 1290 Super Duke GT with 175hp stock, no upgrades required...
    13 Yamaha WR450 with FMF pipe, Baja Designs street legal kit
    78 GS750E finely tuned with:

    78 KZ1000 in pieces with:
    Rust, new ignition, burnt valves and CLEAN carbs!

    History book:
    02 GSF1200S Bandit (it was awesome)
    12 Aprilia Shiver 750
    82 GS1100G

    83 Kaw 440LTD

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      #47
      That's so 2002.

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        #48
        down with 630, you would think you are try to make up for sumtin :roll: by useing such a BIG chain. us real men have no problems using 530 chain.

        -ryan
        78 GS1000 Yosh replica racer project
        82 Kat 1000
        10 990 ADV-R The big dirt bike​
        Some dirt bikes

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          #49
          A bit late to this debate, but have a little info to pass on....



          How often do you actually clean and lube your chain? I do mine every other weekend in the summer, and every 4-6 weeks in the winter, depending on how often I'm riding.

          I've averaged ~18K miles over the last 2 years, and have yet to see any significant wear on the chain or sprockets I had installed 2 years ago February. 5 rear and 3 front tires, granted - but the same chain and sprockets.

          Usually on a Friday evening in preparation for a Saturday ride - get home from work, put her on the rear stand over a piece of cardboard, spray the chain and rear sprocket liberally with WD40, take off the primary cover and do the same to the front sprocket.

          Have cold beer, contemplate having another...

          Clean goop out of the primary cover, wipe off sprocket. With bike in neutral, wipe goop off of chain until she's shiny, do same for rear sprocket and wheel. Put the primary cover back on, start the bike, and ease the clutch out in first gear to let the chain warm up. Bike off, back in neutral, and slowly spin the rear tire while applying chain lube between links and outside plates, then between links and sprocket teeth - outside first, then inside. Keep spinning wheel by hand until the lube is set, then re-clean the rear wheel with a rag moistened with WD40.

          Have another beer, pat self on back - check fluids, tires, electrics ,suspension, and anticipate tomorrow's ride.


          PJ1 blue label works for me. AND - for clip-link chains, get some safety wire and silicone. After you put the link together, safety wire the clip in place (around the side plate of the link), twisting the wire on the outside of the link. Snip off the tail at about 3/8". Fold the tail back flush agains the clip, and put a dab of silicone on it to keep it in place. There's enough play between the sprocket and chain that the safety wire will never touch the sprocket, but it will keep the clip in place. Got that one from a serious track hound I ride with....


          -Q!

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            #50
            Originally posted by first timer
            down with 630, you would think you are try to make up for sumtin :roll: by useing such a BIG chain. us real men have no problems using 530 chain.

            -ryan

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              #51
              AND - for clip-link chains, get some safety wire and silicone. After you put the link together, safety wire the clip in place (around the side plate of the link), twisting the wire on the outside of the link. Snip off the tail at about 3/8". Fold the tail back flush agains the clip, and put a dab of silicone on it to keep it in place. There's enough play between the sprocket and chain that the safety wire will never touch the sprocket, but it will keep the clip in place. Got that one from a serious track hound I ride with....
              interesting idea. I abaonded clips after I had one shear off one time on the old 550. I went with the rivet on type and it wasn't too bad with 2 people and an air hammer.

              as for cleaning the chain...gosh I really don't do that. I lube it up every once in a while, and keep an eye on it, but everything looks good. It's only a year old now.

              The use of WD40 to clean a chain is only reccomended on non-oring chains because the WD40 will penetrate the o-ring an disolve the grease.

              ~Adam

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                #52
                OK Adam, you asked for it! :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:



                ...For everyone's enjoyment...
                16 KTM 1290 Super Duke GT with 175hp stock, no upgrades required...
                13 Yamaha WR450 with FMF pipe, Baja Designs street legal kit
                78 GS750E finely tuned with:

                78 KZ1000 in pieces with:
                Rust, new ignition, burnt valves and CLEAN carbs!

                History book:
                02 GSF1200S Bandit (it was awesome)
                12 Aprilia Shiver 750
                82 GS1100G

                83 Kaw 440LTD

                Comment


                  #53
                  Originally posted by Joe Nardy
                  By the way, the website mentioned above claims that X-ring chains are significantly better at retaining the original grease due to the much better seal the X-rings have against the plates. Does anyone have experience with X-ring chains?

                  Joe

                  Joe, Ive had an RK 530XSO X Ring chain and new sprokets (15/40) on my GS750 for 14000Km now. No adjustments at all as yet, the chain hasnt stretched at all and I ride hard.

                  It seems to be wearing much better compared to the previously used RK530SO O ring. Easiest explanation is that the X ring gives 2 surface seals on each side instead of one on an O ring.

                  I also use the Motul chain clean sprayed onto the inside of the chain (the sproket mating side) and then wipe it down and wait 5 mins, then apply Motul factory line chain lube. Ive never had any problems with this process on either X or O ring chains.

                  Go to the RK site to see the comparison:

                  Comment


                    #54
                    Oh, so this is where the thread I wanted ended up. I'm getting better at getting Search to return the results I want.

                    Judging from "The Truth About Motorcycle Chains" and what I've read here, I think I will go with a non-sealed standard chain with a high tensile strength. It looks like the DID and RK chains are really good deals in this department.

                    It's only a GS450, after all, and I'm a fair-weather rider, not to mention I know I'll be smothering the chain in PJ1 often. I have a can of Blue, but PJ1 says Black is better for non-sealed chains. Hmm... :roll:

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                      #55
                      YES! Shafties do rule! If the rear shaft goes out (rare) it's actually cheaper to buy a 2nd hand shaft drive than new chain & sprockets.

                      Comment


                        #56
                        630 chain

                        i have a GS750Ex. Did the 630 come stock on the GS bikes because i think the 630 chain is too big for my bike its rubbing on the swing arm it left a .030" groove and ground the swingarm bearing cap to nothing im going to go with a 530 non oring chain since im not going to ride the 750 in the rain (that's what my gs 450Lz is for, witch only has a 520 non selaed chain with 22,000 thousand miles on the sprockets and 8,500miles on the chain i use
                        P J-1 Heavy duty BLACK lable very messy/sticky but it works good.

                        The 630 chain has 96 links with 15 tooth front sprocket and a 41 tooth rear i want to convert to a 530 chain with a 16 tooth sprocket front 41 rear how much longer chain do i need

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