Engine Oil Question

[AOD]

Yup, used to run 10W30 and 10W40 Penzoil in my first GS550. I ran it that way for at least a year, even when it leaked oil like a pig (totally unrelated incident).

Check your owners manual, it will show you 10W30 is okay for cooler temps.

[Anonymous]

Check your owners manual, it will show you 10W30 is okay for cooler temps.

Who am I to disagree? I'm no expert. Is it a concern that the oils might have been grippier when the owner's manual was written?

[Wingnut]

I ran dinosaur 10/40 oil with no problems, then tried 20/50 GTX. The 20/50 made my clutch not disengage as well. Bigger clunk from neutral to first, and with the correct freeplay set the clutch would start to engage 1/4 inch off of the handlebar. 10/40 seems to be the thickest the clutch pack will tolerate in my bike.

I used to think thicker is better but I have changed my perception on that. Helicopters are pumping 2000 HP through the main gear box and they approve Dextron ATF, or 20 weight synthetic. Also many car standard transmissions use ATF. You don't need heavy 10/40 oil just because there are gears involved. I no longer believe thick is good. Thinner oils lubricate fine and disipate heat better IMHO.

[Anonymous]

Check your owners manual, it will show you 10W30 is okay for cooler temps.

Who am I to disagree? I'm no expert. Is it a concern that the oils might have been grippier when the owner's manual was written?

it's entirely possible that the manual was written before the energy conserving oils were well into their present state

[AOD]

I'm just sayin!

If anything, oil quality today is better than oil quality of 1979.

[Anonymous]

I use an aussie brand called Penrite HPR30 (not to be confused with penzoil)_

it is 20W60 weight, and works in all my bikes very well. It is well suited to the aussie summer heat (has been around 38c this last week and 98% humidity)

The downside is that when shifting it is slightly harder.

Ive tried the thinner oils (10W40) and its just too thin, they all overheat my GS, and I cant afford to seize my GS750, Ive stuck 28thousand K on it since Jan 2004.

[Giblet]

Wish I hadn't read this . Now my head hurts. How about Wesson vegetable oil? Anybody running that? Sorry. Just couldn't help myself.

[Anonymous]

I personally wouldnt use vegetable oil, it can easily burn, and isnt designed for (especially) an air cooled engine, and wil only cost you a major engine rebuild (if it doesnt result in seizure.)

just my 2 cents.

[Giblet]

Andrew,

I believe you win. You'd fit right in Texas.

SF

[redliner1973]

Crisco! Much better than Wesson!!

[duaneage]

Nothing gets it going like an oil discussion. Let's talk about religion, politics and money next.

I tried silkoline 20W-50W synthetic and I am not happy with the way it shifts or warms up. I am going to 10-40w Mobile 1 in the spring.

THe thicker oil makes for a difficult shift until it warms up, clutch slips at high rpm shifts when it did not with 10-40w.


my .02

(don't throw anything at me if you disagree!)

[dpep]

Mobil 1 15/50 for 100,000 miles in my 850. It's worked great for me.

[Anonymous]

Nothing gets it going like an oil discussion. Let's talk about religion, politics and money next.

I tried silkoline 20W-50W synthetic and I am not happy with the way it shifts or warms up. I am going to 10-40w Mobile 1 in the spring.

THe thicker oil makes for a difficult shift until it warms up, clutch slips at high rpm shifts when it did not with 10-40w.


my .02

(don't throw anything at me if you disagree!)

If you like the synthetic you will find that mobile 1 15/50 or castrol syntec 5/50 are the perfect solutions for the shifting before warmup problem. I have experienced the same problem with 20/50 grade oils