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Carbs not the same in cleaing guide!

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    Carbs not the same in cleaing guide!

    I just bought a rack of 650 carbs for my 1980 550. I am going to switch out the jets and needles and then pray I didn't screw anything up. I am almost ready to dip my new rack but I can't get to the air screw... in fact there are covers on the air screw ports that have a tiny little hole in them. I can't tell if the covers are attatched to the carb body or not-- I can't seem to remove them. What gives? Where they a little different? How would you sync these guys?
    Travis

    #2
    The screws are sealed by a small plug on th top/ intake side of the carb. (dam EPA) You need to drill them out they are onle 1/8-3/16 thick so go CAREFULLY the screw is just below the plug. If it didn't come out while drilling it- insert a self tapping screw and pull it out. Fill the hole with PB Blaster penatrant and let soak overnight Don't force the screws

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      #3
      got em! Now one more question. On my needle valve seat on the 550 carbs there is a small clip that holds the needle in. On the 650 carbs there is a thin piece of metal that stops the float from going a certain height... on my 650 rebuilt carbs for my 550 bike, which setup should I keep? Both?
      Travis

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        #4
        got em! Now one more question. On my needle valve seat on the 550 carbs there is a small clip that holds the needle in. On the 650 carbs there is a thin piece of metal that stops the float from going a certain height... on my 650 rebuilt carbs for my 550 bike, which setup should I keep? Both?
        Travis

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