Announcement

**Joe Nardy** · 01-23-2005, 04:04 PM

The main jet is for full throttle running. Partial throttle running is controlled mainly by the needle. I would try raising the needles more. I'm not sure about Stage 1 but most of us running Stage 3 with PODs and pipes end up with the needles raised to or near the highest position. Read through this thread, it should help: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ic.php?t=30146

Let us know if this helps,
Joe

RJ · 01-23-2005, 04:30 PM

You need to go to a Stage III kit. I have the same setup on my '82 1100E. The individual pods flow too much air for Stage I. I had the same problem with my bike until I went to a Stage III. Wow, what a difference. The thing runs like a scalded ape without any kind of carburetion issues. My needles are on the second to lowest position. Do this and you'll never regret your mods again.

RJ · 01-23-2005, 04:33 PM

Clarification: needles with e clip on the second to lowest slot, which raises the needle up to the second to highest position.

**pano** · 01-23-2005, 06:51 PM

Shortly after I got my 82GS110E in 1984 I put a Yosh pipe on it and had it jetted at a local Suzuki shop. They put a 122.5 main jet in and had me remove my airbox cover.

When I switched to pods in the last couple of years and put in the dynajet needles in I am sure I had the stock needles in.

With the original jetting the bike pulled hard in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd and less in higher gears. I never much tried to go top speed back then and was content with burn outs and wheelies. In 1995 I was cruising up to Laconia with a few other guys and noticed a drop in power in 5th gear WOT. It just would not go any faster.

I dynoed it there and sure enough my power began to drop off in 4th and even more in 5th gear. It could have been a problem that crept in slowly over the years or something I had never noticed. The bike did sit for several years 89-94 or so.

I have since put the pods on and it pulls much better in the high gears, the lower gears it may be the same or less I am not sure .

As far as the original stage 1 jetting I did not have any flat spots at all. It was smooth except for the loss of power I noticed years later. If anything it was running a touch on the leaner side, definately was not running rich.

**Joe Nardy** · 01-23-2005, 08:05 PM

Originally posted by RJ

You need to go to a Stage III kit. I have the same setup on my '82 1100E. The individual pods flow too much air for Stage I. I had the same problem with my bike until I went to a Stage III. Wow, what a difference. The thing runs like a scalded ape without any kind of carburetion issues. My needles are on the second to lowest position. Do this and you'll never regret your mods again.

RJ and all,

Check Coug's original post:

Originally posted by coug66

I went and added a Yosh exhaust, K&N filter in stock box and replaced the jets and needles in the carburators.

If you are using the stock airbox with stock or K&N filter you still use Stage 1. Here's a cut & paste from the instructions for the Dynojet Kit:

1980-86 Suzuki GS1100-1150 16-valve
Stage 1&3
STAGE 1
For mildly tuned machines using the stock airbox, with stock or
K&N filter #N/A
STAGE 3
For mildly tuned machines using individual filters or velocity
stacks. K&N filters #RU-2922
Both stages may be used with a good aftermarket exhaust

Here's a link to the instructions:

Jet Kit for 1980-1986 Suzuki GS1100

http://www.dynojet.com/pdf/3133.pdf

Dynojet Jet Kits Whether you run a standard motorcycle, or a tuned sportbike, Dynojet Carburetor Jet Kits can provide you with a simple and affordable solution to all your carburetion problems. Dynojet Jet Kits increase power and smoothness throughout the entire rev range, while maintaining optimum fuel economy. Each Dynojet Jet Kit includes comprehensive instructions which show step-by-step installation and testing procedures to ensure a perfect setup every time. This is backed by free telephone and Internet support to Dynojet customers. Kit installation and Dynamometer services are available in many parts of the world. Please see the Dynamometer Center Search Page to locate your nearest dyno shop. Read Full Description Jet Kit Types Needle & Needle Jet Caps Many newer bikes have very flat power and fuel delivery curves when used with the stock exhaust and air-box. When aftermarket pipes are used, the power curve is usually not flat. You find the need to lean out for low speed and richen up for top end; or leaner on the top end and richer at the low speed. In order to achieve full function and driveability, Dynojet develops shrouds or cap style nozzles for adjusting the upper or lower top end. They also have an effect similar to fuel injection by breaking up the fuel as it enters the air stream. Fuel Needle The design of the needle is where Dynojet spends most of its R&D time. The needle is designed to give the correct amount of fuel throughout the mid-range and is also designed to allow adjustment from groove 1 to groove 6 with little or no effect below 3000 R.P.M.; then with the correct end dimensions, the needle will have little effect on the main jet regardless of needle position. This isolates all circuits from each other and ensures easy set-up of the midrange and driveability. Main Air Jet This jet allows air into the emulsion tube to mix with fuel being drawn up from the float bowl. It controls the amount of fuel which can be pulled from the float bowl into the venturi. The larger the size of the main air jet, the more air you get and less fuel. The smaller the main air jet, the more fuel you get and less air. Dynojet alters this only to achieve the flattest possible fuel delivery curve. Pilot Circuit This controls 100% of the engine idle and 25% of the transition onto the needle. Dynojet has found that the engine will idle with the standard pilot jet, with or without the air-box and with the slides and needles removed from the carburetors; therefore we never change the pilot jet. Doing so is proof that you are not using the other circuits correctly. Idle and off idle is controlled by the mixture screws and the float level which have the most positive effect below 4000 R.P.M. On some models the pilot air jet is changed to provide optimum fuel economy. Correct balancing of the carburetors also ensures a smooth idle. Main Jet We develop our main jets to correctly serve two functions; static load and dynamic load. The static load is the fuel received through the main jet in the upper gears, where the tachometer is moving very slow. The dynamic fueling portion of the main jet is the amount of fuel received from the jet in the mid-range potion of the power. For example, you have a GSXR1100 G,H with #130 main jets. You then install #125 mains. After running the bike you notice the top end has improved but the mid-range doesn't pull as well. You then install #135 mains and you notice the mid-range is great but the top end is slower. This is a common compromise when using stock main jets and needles. If you install Dy 93 Dealers Orders Dealer Orders "Dealer Orders Dynojet Research Inc. dealers much call in to place an order. Please call us at: 1-800-992-4993 (Toll Free)/Suzuki/GS1100/1986

Also, to clarify needle/clip position: RJ's description is correct. When I mentioned in my earlier post the highest position I meant the highest NEEDLE position, which is the lowest CLIP position. Sorry for any confusion.

Joe

**pano** · 01-23-2005, 09:32 PM

I guess the bottom line with my previous post is I had a similar set-up for years. I had 122.5 mains and as far as I could tell stock needles that I don't think are adjustable. Air box cover off.

I think you were at least curious about the size of the mains in a similar set up.

I had no sputtering but I eventually had power loss in 4th and 5th.

RJ · 01-23-2005, 10:09 PM

Yeah, nothing like actually paying attention to what you read! Sorry about that. I have to say that I never did run the stock air box so I can't really be sure what is going on. I will say that running individual pods seems to be the way to go, seeing as how much more air they flow compared to the stock box. Not to mention how much easier it is to perform maintenence.

**Anonymous** · 01-23-2005, 10:45 PM

I like the fast responses. I just bought " Mikuni 34mm carbs, 82-3 Katana GS1100, GS 1100 SD" and I will also buy a 4 main jet kit. I am going to first swap the whole carb set up and that should get me the stock power curve, except for the filter and exhaust mods.
I will then play with the main jets on my stage one carbs.
I have already played with the needles at first it almost was unusable since the needles were too low and then I tinkered with them to get the right setting( off the top of my head about 3 or 4 up from bottom.
Once I raised it too high it ran poorly again. I think I will enlarge the main jet see ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=4520853655 they have 100, 110 , 120 ,140 mains not sure if this sizing is universally understood?

any recomendations on which I should use to test with the stage one setup?

Thanks Joe Nardy that is exactly what I did to my carbs. It is great to have that info again. I modified them at least 15 years ago and had forgotten.

**Rico** · 01-24-2005, 12:38 AM

Hey Coug et al,
I too bought a set of those mains for my 78 1000e (trying to save a buck)
I know in the end I'll be kicking myself in the ars for not just going with a K&N jet kit.
ANYWAY, as soon as my sync. tool gets here I'll be ripping into mine, so keep us informed on your progress. (good and bad)

Rico

**pano** · 01-24-2005, 08:12 AM

Keep in mind a Mikuni jet and Dynojet jet having the same # do not have the same size oriface. I had a comparison chart but can't seem to locate it now.

**KEITH KRAUSE** · 01-24-2005, 11:33 AM

Originally posted by pano

Shortly after I got my 82GS110E in 1984 I put a Yosh pipe on it and had it jetted at a local Suzuki shop. They put a 122.5 main jet in and had me remove my airbox cover.

Just more proof you can't even trust the Suzuki dealer to know what to do.
Taking the cover off really leans it out. With no needle circuit changes, you were running lean at anything below 3/4 throttle position. The mixture screws would need richening too. Not sure about their main jet choice either. It would depend on what the stockers were. At least that's water under the bridge now.

RJ · 01-24-2005, 08:38 PM

I'd be careful about mixing manufacturers of jets and needles. The K&N and Dynojet components are designed to work together. If you ever get a chance to compare the needles from stock Mikunis to the others you'll see what I mean. Who's Stage I kit are you using? The only ones I'm aware of are K&N and Dynojet. I think they may even be made by the same manufacturer. You say you just bought a set of Mikuni 34's. Weren't you running these carbs originally? If not, start over again with the 34's and you shouldn't have a problem (don't forget to clean and synch). Good luck.

**Anonymous** · 01-24-2005, 11:51 PM

I love this board and the free help, I like to avoid the $60 an hour kind at the local shop. Anyway you bring up an interesting point If the jets I bought are for stock needles then they will probably not mate well with the Dynojet needles. It may be I wasted the money on the jets? The Dynojet has a tapered needle vs the stock pole needles. I do have another set of stock jets and needles so I will compare the union of both. I don't have carb balancers I will look and see if Ebay has a set. I don't see a listing on the Dynojet site for just main jets.

Ian

**RacingJake** · 01-24-2005, 11:58 PM

If it was me I'd check fuel flow first from the petcock, should flow like water from a garden hose then I'd spend 8 bucks for some real Mikuni 140 jets.

Announcement

Stage one 82 GS1100E flat spot 5500 to 7500rpm

Stage one 82 GS1100E flat spot 5500 to 7500rpm

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment