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    GS 1000 plug fowling problem

    I have 79 GS 1000 has been fowling plugs in a short period of time. I recently had my mechanic repair an oil leak problem, but has not been able to solve this issue. Previously another shop (now closed) rebuilt if from the crank up. It is stock execpt for the 4into 1 Mac header, and he has had it on a dyno to adjust the carbs. and check for the problem. But it is still doing this. It will run like a bandit (pun intended) as soon as I put in new plugs, I use NGK's. I tried running one level hotter plug to see if it would help, It did not. It also has a electronic igntion replacing the points system, the brand I have forgotten, but was a reputable brand from my local parts house. As far as I know the coils and wires are original. Spring is approaching and I need my "baby back". If anyone has any ideas, I can pass on to my mechanic, please let me know. my e-mail is dmp1946@Juno.com Thanks for reading this

    #2
    plugs

    Maybe has been rejeted wrong, or the carb needles played with,gas fouled or oil fouled??? check the plugs for a good blue spark if weak check the coils and also check the spark plug resistor caps, and dont foget about the points and condenser as possable points of weak spark!

    Comment


      #3
      It could be a lot of things.
      I'll assume the motor was rebuilt correctly and has good compression, valve clearances are set, ignition timing is set, the air filter is clean, and the plugs are the correct B8ES and gapped correctly. All of these should be OK after any rebuild.
      But the spark quality and/or the carbs may have a problem? Have you checked the battery voltage/water level, coils resistance per your manual? Are all the harness connections cleaned up and good? Have the carbs been cleaned or serviced in ANY way? Any possible re-jetting done?
      If there's a chance someone incorrectly adjusted the carbs externally (pilot fuel screws and side air screws), here's something that may help and is easy to do.
      First of all, be careful with both the pilot and side air screws, they can be stuck and the heads strip easily. Use a very good fitting tool. NEVER seat these screws too firmly, especially the sharp tipped pilot screws that are located underneath and engine side of the float bowls. Just seat them lightly. Also, if you can see the factory sealant (anti-tampering sealant) still on the pilot screw heads and you believe the screws have never been moved, then making adjustments to these screws will most likely not help.
      If you decide they have been moved before, or just want to see how far out they are set, keep a record of how far out each pilot screw (underneath) is set. A stock '79 1000 will GENERALLY have its pilot screws out about 3/4 of a turn, but they are often anywhere from 1/2 turn to maybe 1 1/4 turns out. Each bike can be set differently straight from the factory. Because they are so sensitive, if your bike WAS originally set at 3/4, then 1 1/4 turn would cause plug fouling. If you do find these screws turned out even further, then I'm sure they are at least part of your problem. Anyway, I suggest seating them lightly and back them out to 3/4 turn for a starting point.
      Then adjust the side air screws to 1 1/2 turns out from lightly seated. Again, be careful of any sealant making the screws hard to turn.
      Start the bike up with good plugs and warm it up first. On the centerstand, adjust each side air screw for the highest idle possible. Adjust one screw slowly, stop when the rpm's max', and adjust the idle back to about 1,100 rpm with the idle adjuster knob underneath. Do this same procedure to the remaining 3 side air screws. They generally end up about 1 1/2 to 2 turns out, so don't expect to have to turn these far from the initial 1 1/2 turns out setting.
      Go test long enough to see if the plugs start fouling again. If they do, then I suspect the carbs are dirty and/or have been jetted wrong or the floats are not adjusted right.
      If the bike runs well, then you may still want to fine tune the pilot screws after more testing.
      And on the seventh day,after resting from all that he had done,God went for a ride on his GS!
      Upon seeing that it was good, he went out again on his ZX14! But just a little bit faster!

      Comment


        #4
        Try fully charging or replacing your battery.

        Even if there is enough cranking amps to turn the starter motor easily enough, it might not have enough sting to get the ignition working sufficiently. The ignition wants a full 12 volts and can complain if it doesn't get it.

        Kim

        Comment


          #5
          Re: plugs

          Originally posted by Gee-s-is
          Maybe has been rejeted wrong, or the carb needles played with,gas fouled or oil fouled??? check the plugs for a good blue spark if weak check the coils and also check the spark plug resistor caps, and dont foget about the points and condenser as possable points of weak spark!
          Thanks for sendn me this information. I just read my e-mial, and have forwarded it to my mechanic. Dwight

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by KEITH KRAUSE
            It could be a lot of things.
            I'll assume the motor was rebuilt correctly and has good compression, valve clearances are set, ignition timing is set, the air filter is clean, and the plugs are the correct B8ES and gapped correctly. All of these should be OK after any rebuild.
            But the spark quality and/or the carbs may have a problem? Have you checked the battery voltage/water level, coils resistance per your manual? Are all the harness connections cleaned up and good? Have the carbs been cleaned or serviced in ANY way? Any possible re-jetting done?
            If there's a chance someone incorrectly adjusted the carbs externally (pilot fuel screws and side air screws), here's something that may help and is easy to do.
            First of all, be careful with both the pilot and side air screws, they can be stuck and the heads strip easily. Use a very good fitting tool. NEVER seat these screws too firmly, especially the sharp tipped pilot screws that are located underneath and engine side of the float bowls. Just seat them lightly. Also, if you can see the factory sealant (anti-tampering sealant) still on the pilot screw heads and you believe the screws have never been moved, then making adjustments to these screws will most likely not help.
            If you decide they have been moved before, or just want to see how far out they are set, keep a record of how far out each pilot screw (underneath) is set. A stock '79 1000 will GENERALLY have its pilot screws out about 3/4 of a turn, but they are often anywhere from 1/2 turn to maybe 1 1/4 turns out. Each bike can be set differently straight from the factory. Because they are so sensitive, if your bike WAS originally set at 3/4, then 1 1/4 turn would cause plug fouling. If you do find these screws turned out even further, then I'm sure they are at least part of your problem. Anyway, I suggest seating them lightly and back them out to 3/4 turn for a starting point.
            Then adjust the side air screws to 1 1/2 turns out from lightly seated. Again, be careful of any sealant making the screws hard to turn.
            Start the bike up with good plugs and warm it up first. On the centerstand, adjust each side air screw for the highest idle possible. Adjust one screw slowly, stop when the rpm's max', and adjust the idle back to about 1,100 rpm with the idle adjuster knob underneath. Do this same procedure to the remaining 3 side air screws. They generally end up about 1 1/2 to 2 turns out, so don't expect to have to turn these far from the initial 1 1/2 turns out setting.
            Go test long enough to see if the plugs start fouling again. If they do, then I suspect the carbs are dirty and/or have been jetted wrong or the floats are not adjusted right.
            If the bike runs well, then you may still want to fine tune the pilot screws after more testing.
            i just read my e-mail. Thanks for thie very detailed information. I have passed it o to my mechanic. Dwight

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Doctor Shifty
              Try fully charging or replacing your battery.

              Even if there is enough cranking amps to turn the starter motor easily enough, it might not have enough sting to get the ignition working sufficiently. The ignition wants a full 12 volts and can complain if it doesn't get it.

              Kim
              Thanks for sending me this information. I have forwarded it to my mechanic. Dwight

              Comment


                #8
                Good luck and let us know how it goes.
                And on the seventh day,after resting from all that he had done,God went for a ride on his GS!
                Upon seeing that it was good, he went out again on his ZX14! But just a little bit faster!

                Comment


                  #9
                  I've just noticed the irony of a guy named Plucker with a fowling problem. Must have been a hard day at KFC. :-)

                  Kim

                  Comment

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