Watch out for the case differences thing: TO 220 is what you want. TO 218 is what I got, and it's much bigger than the stock transistor. By grinding away the edges of the cases and redrilling the mounting tab holes to offset them, I got them to barely fit together without touching anything that will short them out.
WEIRD STUFF: I only thought I'd need to do the transistor on the bad circuit (plugs 1/4, white wire into the box) so I did that one first. Suddenly I've got 1/4 firing again, but now 2/3 don't work! WTF? So I put in that transistor as well, and after cranking it for a while, it lights up! It's about damn time!
Well 30 seconds later it'd blown out 1/4 again. It won't give a spark, which of course sucks. Oh yeah: I ran the bike with the headlight fuse accidentally disconnected. It blew the main fuse again at the same time as blowing out the circuit on the ignition.
Yeah I'll be checking the R/R again, but now this has opened back up into a wild goose chase. Something is making my ignition modules blow out too damn easily. My coils read 4-4.5 ohms each, which according to some isn't too high. The R/R checked out fine right after the first ignition blew, and when I put the most recent ignition in for the first time a few weeks ago it read 14.8 charging volts.
I really don't want to have to just replace everything on a bike I just spend $1100 for, but that might be the route I'm looking at if I can't figure things out first.
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