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Resoldering the ignition module? Electricians help! FIXED!

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    #16
    Well I finally found a supplier for NTE 2317 transistors, but I got the wrong case design, but still made it work.

    Watch out for the case differences thing: TO 220 is what you want. TO 218 is what I got, and it's much bigger than the stock transistor. By grinding away the edges of the cases and redrilling the mounting tab holes to offset them, I got them to barely fit together without touching anything that will short them out.

    WEIRD STUFF: I only thought I'd need to do the transistor on the bad circuit (plugs 1/4, white wire into the box) so I did that one first. Suddenly I've got 1/4 firing again, but now 2/3 don't work! WTF? So I put in that transistor as well, and after cranking it for a while, it lights up! It's about damn time!

    Well 30 seconds later it'd blown out 1/4 again. It won't give a spark, which of course sucks. Oh yeah: I ran the bike with the headlight fuse accidentally disconnected. It blew the main fuse again at the same time as blowing out the circuit on the ignition.

    Yeah I'll be checking the R/R again, but now this has opened back up into a wild goose chase. Something is making my ignition modules blow out too damn easily. My coils read 4-4.5 ohms each, which according to some isn't too high. The R/R checked out fine right after the first ignition blew, and when I put the most recent ignition in for the first time a few weeks ago it read 14.8 charging volts.

    I really don't want to have to just replace everything on a bike I just spend $1100 for, but that might be the route I'm looking at if I can't figure things out first.

    Help?[/url]

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      #17
      Well thanks to the major help from Duane, who refabbed my CDI using correct transistors and resoldered other stuff, plus the addition of a coil off another GS 750, my bike ran today!

      I rode it for the first time in nearly 3 months! It was great. No screwups at all - the carbs are still clean. Wooohoo!

      Note: Apparently coils on 82 GS 750s are not all the same. The ones I bought are shorter by 1/2" in length than the ones on the bike, so mounting them isn't the same, but they work!

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        #18
        Nice to hear your bike is in the road again

        Eliseo.

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          #19
          You said that he used the correct transistor. What was the replacement transistor that he used to rebuild it?? Was it the one you said but the right style or what?? I have mine apart right now, one of my caps is all buldged and fried so I will start with replacing that first but just in case the transistor # would be nice

          Thanks

          Mark

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            #20
            Mark, PM "duaneage" about that Q. He's the one who installed them.

            UPDATE: The bike f'ed up royal today while at my office. I was push starting the thing for a good half hour and nothing worked. It kicked a few times and even lit up once, but died immediately.

            Once I had it connected to a car battery it seemed to only start on full choke (it was warm, but usually needs a good amount of choke to start warm) and would die if I touched the gas as all.

            It didn't seem like a fuel problem because it was like hitting a switch when it died. It just killed instantly. I noticed the run switch (very close to the throttle, which when touched would kill the bike) was loose and not screwed down all the way.

            After driving all the way back to the house in my brother's car I got a bunch of tools, drove the van back to the office (in case I'd need to haul the bike back), and got to work on the switch. I noticed the run switch terminals were a little corroded, so I put a pocket knife blade in there to try to scrape it clean.

            I wanted to get more access to the contacts, so I started looking at the switch to see if I could pull it apart when voila, I see half the frickin rocker hinge the switch mounts to is broken off, allowing the switch to float a bit off the already dirty contacts. I strapped that together with some wire, reconnected everything, and the bike fired right up....well in about 10 seconds of cranking.

            It's still running funny though, but that existed before this whole oddessy began anyway. Either way, the bike works again (for now).

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