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1150 clutch basket slop

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    #1

    1150 clutch basket slop

    How much slop is acceptable when all plates are in place. Can you physically move the basket around everso slightly?

    I believe I may need a thicker shim behind the basket though I don't know how thick the stock one is yet. The basket was welded by Falicon.

    Also is it possible to tig weld a piece of clutch basket where the fiber tangs ride and machine smooth again. I found a chunk of basket missing there when I was splitting the case. Its about 5/8" long by 1/4" wide. I found the piece as well.

    Don't chuckle too hard, but as you may have read previously, I had multiple problems with my starter clutch shearing off bolts. I solved the problem by inserting a longer dowel pin into the back of the rotor.

    However, when popping off the oil pan cover, I discovered one hollow pin that belongs in the starter clutch. I want to say I didn't drop it there myself, but I may have. I have yet to pull off the rotor as I'm doing the case splitting to access the transmission only.

    Also when removing the counter sunk Philips screws on the transmission bearing retainer plates, a couple of the screws disinigrated upon removal. Excessive heat maybe from the 1229 pistons?

    Any thoughts or advice appreciated, Carter
    GS\'s since 1982: 55OMZ, 550ES, 750ET, (2) 1100ET\'s, 1100S, 1150ES. Current ride is an 83 Katana. Wifes bike is an 84 GS 1150ES
    Tags: None
    #2
    Lets try and work our way through this!
    Yes.
    No
    Yes
    Lucky
    and yes

    Dink

    Comment

      #3
      don't shim up the clutch basket!! you will lock up the clutch!!
      when the clutch is engaged it free spins on the transmission input shaft.
      the clutch hub rides on a needle bearing and these do wear over time, a very small bit of play is normal, but you can replace the bearing (21.84usd) (@ alpha-sports.com) if you are not comfortable with the play.
      on my bike (over 100K miles) the basket was pretty sloppy and I picked up a complete clutch assembly from a donor bike and discovered when I took it apart that all I really needed was to replace the bearing and clean up the wear marks from the clutch plates.

      Comment

        #4
        Leon,

        The shim I'm referring to is behind the thrust washer, and in front of the needle bearings The shim size chart in the manual shows 4 sizes available from 1.05mm-1.20mm. Carter
        GS\'s since 1982: 55OMZ, 550ES, 750ET, (2) 1100ET\'s, 1100S, 1150ES. Current ride is an 83 Katana. Wifes bike is an 84 GS 1150ES

        Comment

          #5
          how tight should center nut be?

          82 GS1100E, replaced clutch friction plates, checked steel plates, none are warped, torque down center nut to specs, clutch hub will not spin freely, should I loosen up the center nut until hub spins freely? Any advice on how to proceed?

          Thanks

          Comment

            #6
            Re: how tight should center nut be?

            Originally posted by tttjump
            82 GS1100E, replaced clutch friction plates, checked steel plates, none are warped, torque down center nut to specs, clutch hub will not spin freely, should I loosen up the center nut until hub spins freely? Any advice on how to proceed?

            Thanks
            it wont spin freely by hand due to the friction between the steels and friction plates.

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