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Mechanical advance-do they move??

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    Mechanical advance-do they move??

    Thg GS450 I'm re-doing, has rust all around the mechanical advance. Should I be able to move them outward like centrifical force would do with a screwdriver while the engine is stopped? I'd like to be able to dismantel them so I can clean all the rust off, but I don't know how. I can't find it in any of my manuals.

    Help, pllease.

    Terry

    #2
    If you look behind the bolt that holds the advancer to the engine there is metal cylinder. That should rotate on the shaft when turned either right or left, which should move the weights outward. If this isn't happening, then something is stuck.

    Undo the bolt there on the engine for starters. I think you can figure out the rest, it's pretty straight-forward. You have to remove the points plate or pickups first by taking the three screws out. If it's points, you'll have to redo the timing when you assemble it again, no biggie.

    ~Adam

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      #3
      Thanks for the quick response. I'll go look now and see what I can see.

      8)

      Terry

      Comment


        #4
        Adam - I see the weights, mounted on another plate and the springs. It is an electronic ignition, so I pulled the plates with the pick-up coils on it and turned it with a wrench. I see no movement what so ever. Any thoughts?

        Terry

        Comment


          #5
          The advance counterweights should spring open easily with no binding or catching. Remove the small bolt (I think 12mm) on the end of the crankshaft. (you already have the ignition plate removed I believe) The counter weight advance mechanism just slides off the shaft. Once it is off, you will see a pair of locating tabs on it seating surface that need to be aligned with the slots on the engine case for reinstallation. Just soak it in PB blaster overnight, springs and all, It should loosen right up.

          Earl

          Originally posted by TheNose
          Adam - I see the weights, mounted on another plate and the springs. It is an electronic ignition, so I pulled the plates with the pick-up coils on it and turned it with a wrench. I see no movement what so ever. Any thoughts?

          Terry
          Komorebi-The light filtering through the trees.

          I would rather sit on a pumpkin and have it all to myself than be crowded on a velvet cushion. H.D.T.

          Comment


            #6
            Thanks for the help.

            I took the small bolt off (10mm) and took the mechanism off like Earl said. I sprayed PB on it and worked it loose. It works great now.

            I noticed what look like timing marks on the advance mechanism. My manual says that no timing is necessary on this bike, but the label on the side of the frame says 10 deg BTDC. What's with this?



            Terry

            Comment


              #7
              As you said, your bike has a non adjustable electronic ignition, so no timing adjustment is required or possible. I believe the 10 BTDC is the number of degrees advance programmed into the ignition for idle rpm of about 1200. Full advance will be aprox 32 degrees and reached around 3500 rpm (more or less.) So after initial advance of 10 deg at 1200 rpm, the ignition will feed in another 22 degrees between then and 3500 rpm.

              You can check your timing using the marks and a stroboscopic light.

              Earl

              Originally posted by TheNose
              Thanks for the help.

              I took the small bolt off (10mm) and took the mechanism off like Earl said. I sprayed PB on it and worked it loose. It works great now.

              I noticed what look like timing marks on the advance mechanism. My manual says that no timing is necessary on this bike, but the label on the side of the frame says 10 deg BTDC. What's with this?



              Terry
              Komorebi-The light filtering through the trees.

              I would rather sit on a pumpkin and have it all to myself than be crowded on a velvet cushion. H.D.T.

              Comment


                #8
                also the point and early electronic ignition systems use the same mechanical advance, that is why it has the timing marks still on it.

                you can elongate the mounting holes giving you the ability to adjust the timing.

                starting in 82,suzuki started to use a fully electronic ignition that advanced the ignition electronically on some models.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Thanks, Earl. I looked at it with the timing light, but wasn't sure what I should see. I'll try checking it at the RPMs that you mentioned. I don't know if I can adjust it much, but it will be interesting to check.

                  Terry

                  Comment


                    #10
                    If your counterweights still have the timing notations on the sides. for the #1 cylinder you will see the |F1 aligned with the cast in timing arrow on the engine case at 1200 rpm.

                    Earl


                    Originally posted by TheNose
                    Thanks, Earl. I looked at it with the timing light, but wasn't sure what I should see. I'll try checking it at the RPMs that you mentioned. I don't know if I can adjust it much, but it will be interesting to check.

                    Terry
                    Komorebi-The light filtering through the trees.

                    I would rather sit on a pumpkin and have it all to myself than be crowded on a velvet cushion. H.D.T.

                    Comment

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