Fork Mystery

[richardhaggarty]

OK, I have got my forks off the bike ('85 GS700) to replace to fork seals. The manual shows a threaded top cap, part number 10, in this exploded view:



However, the top of my fork has no cap and looks like this:



Now, without the top cap that is supposed to be there I am baffeled as to how to get the fork tube separated from the receiver.

Any ideas?

Thanks

[Poot]

to me, it looks as if your missing the threaded cap, and # 8 is that rusty looking part thats showing, although I don't understand how you could have ridden if this is so.... thats messed up man...

What does the other side look like>?? :?

[richardhaggarty]

Thanks Poot

My guess is that I have a totally different configuration, but I can't see how to seperate the tube from the receiver on this set-up.

And, yes, it is messed up!

[focus frenzy]

you are looking at the wrong diagram!!
this looks alot more like what you have.



there is suspose to be a rubber cap over the rusty part you see.
what you need to do is push the rusty part with the dimple in it down so you can get the lock ring that hold it in, out, you will need a pick set to be able to get behind the ring and work it out of the groove it is in.

[richardhaggarty]

I think you've got it frenzy. Thanks.

I'll let you know how it works out.

[luc8421]

yeah, that's exactly what my 700 looks like, my other problem with the front forks is where the drain hole is. Do we have to invert the forks to drain them?

[Anonymous]

If you don't have a drain you could remove #26, it is above the axle. I always drained my GS400E forks before pulling this bolt (makes it a cleaner job) but you could use it as a drain.

Those caps are going to give you fits, especially if you decide to add spacers. :twisted: Try not to freak out while working on them.

Cheers, Steve

[Anonymous]

After a second glance, You don't have #28? That is the drain.

Steve

[focus frenzy]

After a second glance, You don't have #28? That is the drain.

Steve

yep, #28 is the drain screw, they are made from real soft metal and are more often than not froxen in and you will strip the heads.

[Anonymous]

yep, #28 is the drain screw, they are made from real soft metal and are more often than not froxen in and you will strip the heads.

Use an impact driver without question on these. Mine came out with no problems, which was a pleasant surprise (for a change)


Mark

[richardhaggarty]

Well, I removed the retention ring which was obscured by rust at the edges. However, the cap did not miraculously leave out like I was hoping. From the diagram it looks as if it may be threaded, but I can't see any way to turn it.

I tried searching for some bolt that I may have been missing either at the bottom or maybe under the anti-dive mechanism. No luck there.

Any suggestions?

Richard

[Anonymous]

I'd put a bit of oil into the area and hit the cap with a hammer. It won't be threaded.

If you have the fork off of the bike flip it upside down and push the capped end against the floor. Actually, better put it in a bucket while doing that. The oil is going to be pretty gross.

Steve

[Poot]

my oil was blaaaaaaaaaaack when i took it out. probably the original 26 year old oil... :roll:

[Nerobro]

The stuff we pulled out of skreemers bike was silver grey, and smelled of diesel. Kinda freaky. But we have flushed it and are replacing the fork seals.