Air screws

[jay]

First let me say this is a fantastic site with a wealth of information, well i am into the carb battle on a 1985 gs 700 and i ordered a used set hoping between mine and the used one i can make one good one.

it seems there are caps on the one i ordered , CAN i drill those caps out , and should i drill those caps out , will there be an air screw below the cap,

any suggested techniques on the cap removal ,

and, are there any other differance i should know about , still waiting for my manual

once again, thank you everyone for the info here,

multiple heads are truley better than one

jay

[Anonymous]

it seems there are caps on the one i ordered , CAN i drill those caps out , and should i drill those caps out , will there be an air screw below the cap,

any suggested techniques on the cap removal ,

Yes, yes and yes.

The easiest way I have found is to carefully drill a pilot hole and thread a large (#8 or bigger) sheet metal screw into the cap, then pry out the cap with the screw. The cap is soft metal and the screw is right below it, so use care not to drill through into the screw head. I used my drill press on the plugs on my ZX-9 and it was much easier to control than a hand drill, if you have one. That's it for removal.

Screw in each air screw until it bottoms (GENTLY, again) and count the turns as you go. Write down the number of turns on each screw so you have a baseline in case you get lost during the fine tuning process. That applies to ALL settings/changes during tuning, as well. Be fanatical about keeping notes on things and you will always be able to find your way back to a good setting if you get lost.

Mark

[bgmart450]

You can, and I have. There are ORings on my capped mixture screws (assuming all are the same) and needed to remove them before dipping the carb bodies. I took a small drill bit and drilled straight down sllloooowwwly. If the caps don't catch on the bit once you get real near the screws you might try a slightly larger bit on a second pass. Gotta be real careful though don't wanna fudge the brass screw beneath.

One thing I didn't do, but really should have is once you get the cap off count the number of turns to seat it fully so you have a good base start when you put them back in. The stuff you learn AFTER you do something, eh? :roll:

*edit* I must type pretty slow LOL - Yeah what Mark said

[jay]

the #8 sheet metal screw is the key , since all i had was a hand drill and was afraid of going through the cap , i just made a small hole and threaded the screw in and pulled, worked like a champ

and it was 2.5 turns on all the srews

thanks mr.M