Cam timing/valve adjust 2nd attempt (RacingJake was right)

[pano]

Well I got the bike all buttoned up and outside for the initial test after installing slotted cam gears and adjusting them to the stock 110 deg IN and 109 deg EX. Fired her up and she started easily bur I have some noises I did not have before. Not knocking but some ticking or tapping. I shut her down.

After the cam timing I rotated the engine by hand to see if I had any interference and I did not feel any. I am hoping it is just some poorly adjusted valves.

Either way I will check everything and see what I screwed up.

[skip]

let us know what you find out when you check your clearences and stuff.

[Anonymous]

Well I got the bike all buttoned up and outside for the initial test after installing slotted cam gears and adjusting them to the stock 110 deg IN and 109 deg EX. Fired her up and she started easily bur I have some noises I did not have before. Not knocking but some ticking or tapping. I shut her down.

Just a question - did you adjust the valve lash to zero before you degreed the cams? If so, did you re-adjust back to spec afterwards? I am at this point too (I got everything degreed and set over the weekend) and it would be real easy to forget the lash adjustment afterwards...


Mark

[pano]

I adjusted the valve lash to zero only where I was using my indicator to measure when I degreed my cams, I did not adjust them all to zero. Does that make a difference?

I adjusted all the valves afterwards. I turned my cams in one orientation and adjusted the valves for that orientation then turned the cams to the other orientation and ajusted the other valves.

I did not however rotate the engine a few times and recheck the clearances like the Haynes manual says. I did not see this in the Suzuki manual and that was the one I was following. I guess I should have looked at them both and picked all the best info.

I guess what is important is that the valves are adjusted when you are on the base circle of the cam for that valve. Is that correct?

[RacingJake]

Is the cam chain tenioner installed correctly and adjusted. Maybe to much slack in the chain.

[Anonymous]

I adjusted the valve lash to zero only where I was using my indicator to measure when I degreed my cams, I did not adjust them all to zero. Does that make a difference?

That is what I did as well. I was just wondering if you had left those valves alone and they were running with zero clearance. It doesn't sound like it.

I guess what is important is that the valves are adjusted when you are on the base circle of the cam for that valve. Is that correct?

That is correct. Some people like the lobes pointing straight to the side, some straight up. To me, it doesn't matter as long as you ensure you are on the base circle portion. You should be consistent and stick with one or the other method, just for repeatability and to track any changes over time.


Mark

[pano]

Is the cam chain tenioner installed correctly and adjusted. Maybe to much slack in the chain.

I did just put a manual cam chain adjuster in. Before I took the original out I locked it and put the manual one in probably 1/4 inch shorter. I figured I would turn it in after it was running but when I heard the ticking I did not figure it as chain noise. I will start it up and check that first.

[pano]

RacingJake was right!!

Started the bike up and turned in the camchain tensioner and the noises went away. It sounds good when I cracked the throttle, but I didn't have time to take it for a ride tonight. I still need to sinc the carbs.

Jethro - so far it seems better with the bigger pilot jets.

[RacingJake]

Thanks, i charge a buck 50 an hour or a 6-pack if it's hot outside