Weight loss?

[isaac]

I've been wondering lately what it is that makes the newer bikes so light compared to our GS's. That's the big problem with our bikes after all - they're anywhere between 100-200lbs heavier than a modern sportbike, which is huge.

I know from my readings that the GS motors got upward of 233lbs, and am guessing that the heaviest is the 550 motor due to cyl wall thickness.

Lets concentrate on my bike: 82 GSX750 - approx 540lbs wet or so (though I've never weighed mine to be sure). Put that against a new GSXR1000, and mine has around 140lbs wet on it. That's a huge difference for 2 machines with almost the same exterior dimensions.

I figure the tank is lighter, the forks might be lighter, wheels lighter, it has an alloy frame and all - but does that really add up to 140lbs?

So what can I swap out on this bike to make it lighter? There doesn't seem like much. The bodywork (save the tank) is all fiberglass/plastic, so no good there. I've picked up the tank and it can't weigh more than 15lbs, so I don't see doing up a fiberglass one making much sense.

What I've removed from the bike already: Front and rear turn signals, rear fender, tube steel license plate mount, helmet lock, center stand gone, and it's got a Kerker 4-1.

Any other ideas? How much would I lose by nabbing an 1100 alloy swingarm?

Has anybody managed to strip 50lbs off one of these things without the bike looking hideous afterward?

This bike is a street bike, not a racer, so it has to stay streetable.

[lecroy]

It's not that the bikes are any lighter, its just that we are older and fatter now.

[Nerobro]

you can lighten the chain cover. take out the airbox. Mount a smaller battery.

IIRC, yoshimura managed to take 70lbs off of the katana.

Oh yeah. Wheels are a good place to save weight. Wheels have gotten both smaller, and lighter.

if anything, forks have gotten heavier. larger diameter and with more complex internals.

Goto a lighter chain and sproket setup. that could save you a few pounds.

ditch the stock signals, and go with surface mount ones.

Remake the wireing harness with lighter guage wire.

Ditch the gear indicator. Six strands, 5' of 16ga wire isn't all that light.

You already ditched the centerstand. Cut off the mounts. Cut off the passenger pegs. Cut off the mounts for everything you don't use. Go with a bicycle spedometer intstead of the stock part.

if you are serious about lightening the bike, remember ounces count. it may not seem like a signifigant amount, but add up enough "insignifigants" and you have something very signifigant.

[Anonymous]

you can lighten the chain cover. take out the airbox. Mount a smaller battery.

IIRC, yoshimura managed to take 70lbs off of the katana.

Oh yeah. Wheels are a good place to save weight. Wheels have gotten both smaller, and lighter.

if anything, forks have gotten heavier. larger diameter and with more complex internals.

Goto a lighter chain and sproket setup. that could save you a few pounds.

ditch the stock signals, and go with surface mount ones.

Remake the wireing harness with lighter guage wire.

Ditch the gear indicator. Six strands, 5' of 16ga wire isn't all that light.

You already ditched the centerstand. Cut off the mounts. Cut off the passenger pegs. Cut off the mounts for everything you don't use. Go with a bicycle spedometer intstead of the stock part.

if you are serious about lightening the bike, remember ounces count. it may not seem like a signifigant amount, but add up enough "insignifigants" and you have something very signifigant.

Exactly correct. Everything is lighter on the new bikes. When I swapped out components on the GS1100 I couldn't believe the difference in weight of each piece. Here are some more examples.

rearsets - the gsxr units are like feathers compared to the massive units we have. The rear master cylinder is integrated into the rearset saving weight even more weight.

Axles - the gsxr uses hollow units. Ours are solid. There is no added strength in using solid, just more weight.

Wheels - these were mentioned, but it's insane the difference in weight.

Seat - ours uses a steel pan, plastic on the gsxr.

All of this adds up.

[isaac]

Excellent stuff so far. Thanks guys. I was thinking the wheels would be the biggest savings since it's a stationary and rotating weight. I guess I should start weighing wheels. I was thinking about the seat pan too since the metal seems a bit unneccesary. I wanted to keep the rear footpegs since the current female interest likes to ride on the back, but I'm sure I could make them a lot lighter, just like the rider pegs.

and Lecroy, if I lost 20lbs I'd die. I already weigh in at maybe 140lbs with my gear on.

[lecroy]

Isaac, you on your old bike may already be lighter than me on a new bike.

Why not just get a newer bike if that is what your looking for?

The bike that was on the right side lane in that last video is well under 400 pounds.

[Hoomgar]

Isaac, you on your old bike may already be lighter than me on a new bike.

Why not just get a newer bike if that is what your looking for?

The bike that was on the right side lane in that last video is well under 400 pounds.

That's what I was thinking buddy. Until you do all that and botch up your bike making it none restorable and may end up not liking some of what you've done you may be better off looking into getting a newer bike.

But if you are set on it then the things mentioned above will help. Some should be used with causion "ie... using lighter gauge wire can cause a melt down if you don't know what your doing.

The best above all thing you can do if this is really what you want it to get a new frame made out of alloy. If you know a welder that can cut you a break then it is a doable idea. Other wise it is cost prohibitive. The wheels idea though can shave even more weight.

The seat is another area not mentioned where lighter materials can help.

Above all else, no jokes about it. The best single most effective weight reduction is in your waistline. Unless your not already over weight as many of us are, loosing weight on yourself will go faster and larger amounts than ripping up a vintage motorcycle will.

[earlfor]

You're right about the weight Mark. It is probably the single biggest reason why I have been able to "whack" as many riders as I have, even when they're riding the same bike as I am. Everyone seems to forget it isnt an even drag if their waist weighs 150 lbs more than mine LOL

Earl

Above all else, no jokes about it. The best single most effective weight reduction is in your waistline. Unless your not already over weight as many of us are, loosing weight on yourself will go faster and larger amounts than ripping up a vintage motorcycle will.

[isaac]

and Lecroy, if I lost 20lbs I'd die. I already weigh in at maybe 140lbs with my gear on.

[Anonymous]

and Lecroy, if I lost 20lbs I'd die. I already weigh in at maybe 140lbs with my gear on.

Obviously an exaggeration. Have you been to Etheopia lately?

[wayne cooper]

weight loss

Just curious,I bought an 80 1100 2 years ago and was pondering the pros and cons of individual filters as opposed to a single K&N in the box.Talked to a local shop and got a definite no way, don't even think about individual when you have CV carbs-yet I hear everyone talk about them.These guys have been building 7 second nitrous bikes for a living for many years now. I am curiuos if anyone has compared dyno or track slips either way?(before and after)Still like the looks of the individual filters!

[first timer]

hey buddy you can run indivual pod on your bike no problem BUT you will have to adjust your carbs fuel metering devices in order to better handle the increase in air into the mixture.

i would go to http://www.dynojet.com/jetkits/motorcycle/suzuki.php

and buy a jet kit for 125 buck, for your specfic bike, i would also recomend getting k and n air filters you can go to their website as well and find the right filters you need.

bottom line is you are going to need to do some research finding the parts and stuff you need, how to install and adjust the carbs. plus have about 300 bucks ready do buy all the tools and parts needed for this.

that is why the bike shop said you can't do it, cause they don't want to deal with the hassle of tracking 20 year old stuff they just want to deal with this they have in stock or know where to look. the mods they need to do to thier drag bike carbs would make what they need to do your carb look like childs play, i would suggest finding another shop htey just don't seem intrested in working on old bike and if they have to will either take their time or charge you a ton. the not so hot spot bike shops are usally more willing and nicer to work on older bikes, try to find some cafe racer clubs or non harley non sport bike biker boy clubs, they can tell you where some good shops are.

-ryan

ps

for future refrence you would want to start a new topic since this thread doesn't talk about what is need to install pods on a bike.

[jgordon]

Above all else, no jokes about it. The best single most effective weight reduction is in your waistline. Unless your not already over weight as many of us are, loosing weight on yourself will go faster and larger amounts than ripping up a vintage motorcycle will.[/quote]

If you ask me, Rather than taking it off the waistline, Put more HP in it :-)

[Hoomgar]

Above all else, no jokes about it. The best single most effective weight reduction is in your waistline. Unless your not already over weight as many of us are, loosing weight on yourself will go faster and larger amounts than ripping up a vintage motorcycle will.

If you ask me, Rather than taking it off the waistline, Put more HP in it :-)[/quote]

It's more fun, and you still get to eat :P

[courier11sec]

Time to revive an old thread. I stand 5'10-5'11 depending on who you ask and weigh 115lbs (no kidding) lacking the mass required to flick my bike quickly into a corner, what are my options? should I in fact just wait until I can afford a lighter bike or try to make my 850g better suited to me?