Richard
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what is going on at the tracks???
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its only paint
I was leaving the line at 7500 to 8500 and shifting at around 9000 only just grabbing 4 th gear at the 1/8 mile marker but go to try and get the old girl on a dyno and have a play and try to to find my missing horse's and most defintently change sprockets most of the other street bikes wwere in the mid 6's [gsxr750/1000] and the like but I will let you know what happens after she has been on the dyno later this week I hope
Richard
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mike J
Finally made it back to the track Sat. I ran the 145 main jets but it slowed the bike down some. My mph was on average 90.5. I did run a 7.41 but most of my passes were around 7.50-7.58. I did set a personal best on my 60' time at 1.70. I guess that without a full on race pipe it doesn't like the larger main jets. Mike J
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Clone
Lecroy, in your list of photos, 8th down, is that a two stroke triple kawasaki?
Then later I saw some more photos of two smokers, what do they run in the quarter mile?
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lecroy
Originally posted by CloneLecroy, in your list of photos, 8th down, is that a two stroke triple kawasaki?
Then later I saw some more photos of two smokers, what do they run in the quarter mile?
From previous post on the tripple:
Ok, as for the H2 I am not sure. They had the bike there and I asked them some questions about it. The chassis was made in Oklahoma city. Three were made at that time by the builder. The told me who built the engine and that person was there today but I did not speek to them. The engine uses some Polaris and ArticCat parts. I am thinking the rods cam from a Polaris and the pistons were from an ArticCat. The pipes were made by someone I had heard of, but I forgot who. Sounds like they built the bike in 95. They run it in the 8's with no spray and the bike currently holds a Prostar record of some sorts. They tell me it is a very easy bike to drive. Streight and smooth. I did not ask if it was for sale. My guess is that the price may be more than you would want to pay.
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lecroy
Cool video!!!! Looks like your getting things down. I on the other hand.....
Ever want to kick that lockup to the curb? Come on, you know you have!!!
Remember when I was posting about grinding custom steel plates for that little RD and how touchy that thing was? Well I may have forgotten to mention that once I found the sweet spot, the plates would only hold for about five passes. Then you had to mix and match plates to get the right stack up. It was too hard to keep on top of in E/T. This is actually the straw that broke the camels back and why the kid is on a faster bike.
I have played with my own setup and always get mixed results. Too much static, too little static, too fast a release, too slow a release and never enough centrifugal weight. Big springs, little springs, longer bolts, shorter bolts, and washers washers and more washers. And what about all the clutch packs you destroy during the tuning.
If I told you where I was now with it, you would laugh so hard you would stop coming to this sight in fear of loosing your breath!!! Even the track workers are poking fun at it....
If there is ever an award for the worlds worst clutch tuner, I want it!!!!
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rosco15
I want it gone. I'm constantly changin the 2-step and springs. Early in the day I ride it to the line, do a dry hop, and may even let the clutch drag a bit to heat it up. Later on I walk it up, do the burnout, and put it on the line. The hotter clutch slips more. 1.38's to start. 1.44 by the finals. I have it graphed and documented in my log. Third pass the 60' starts to go away.
I want to try a slider next year, but need to come up with a way to ride it back. I have no one to tow me back to the pits. I've heard of people doing it. I think it can be done on a gs by using the clutch rod to push the clutch pack together instead of pulling it apart. Flip the arm to the other side so the clutch cable will push in instead of pull out. Or use an air cylinder on the clutch cover. At the end of the track, down shift, then lock the clutch up with the lever or air cylinder. Then ride it back easy 2-3000 rpm. Should keep the plates from burning themselves up.
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lecroy
I have never seen anyone try and drive one back. I wish I could show you what your up against. A few pictures would explain the whole thing. The problem is there is no pushrod (should be using a solid shaft anyway) There is nothing to pull on. There is a bearing support in the cover. Stall points I have seen are normally quite high.
I think you could move the stall way down, but it would seem like it would be really hard on things and would make the bike not respond on the line.
Then, assuming wr are talking the GS, there is no oil. The packs have to be torn out and oiled by hand every few runs. I hear some people do it every run and reset the air gap. Arggggg!!! There is no easy solution.
I would try and tow the thing. This has been one of my summer jobs. I am crappy at that as well. The only thing I have going for me is that I am dependable and show up. I know where you are coming from. This is why I have the lockup and electric start on my old bike.
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My 60 range from 1.39's-1.44's too. But I think I'm just the opposite, my tire is spinning to much on launch. Going to 41 lbs springs and try using only 4 springs.1166cc 1/8 ET 6.09@111.88
1166cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.70@122.85
1395cc 1/8 ET 6.0051@114.39
1395cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.71@113.98 "With a broken wrist pin too"
01 Sporty 1/8 ET 7.70@92.28, 1/4 ET 12.03@111.82
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lecroy
Originally posted by RacingJakeMy 60 range from 1.39's-1.44's too. But I think I'm just the opposite, my tire is spinning to much on launch. Going to 41 lbs springs and try using only 4 springs.
Otherwise, Schnitz has the springs you want, PN -0440-19004-(6).
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mike J
I went to the track again. I ran a new personal best for the 1/8 and 60'. My 1/8 time was a 7.31 and I ran two 1.69's for 60'. Jake what kind of tire were you using? Did you have a stock rear rim? My bike either hooks very good or spins like it's in a puddle of oil. I ran the 1.69's during time trials then it was like the track was greased, couldn't even come close to that again. Mike J
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I ran on a very hard 120 street tire then I installed a 150 on my stock rim (not good for turns) that's when I ran a 7.18 at 97 mph. My track is concret and they use alot of VHT so it hooks up pretty good until one night she got sideway around the 330 mark. After that I went with a 91-92 swingarm and 5.5 rim then put a slick on it with some hacksawing and pounding right past the shock mounts.
Those 60fts are great and that 7.31 is going to fall with some more track time and tuning.
So what is your gearing??
Good Job \/1166cc 1/8 ET 6.09@111.88
1166cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.70@122.85
1395cc 1/8 ET 6.0051@114.39
1395cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.71@113.98 "With a broken wrist pin too"
01 Sporty 1/8 ET 7.70@92.28, 1/4 ET 12.03@111.82
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rosco15
I think we have a new addict on our hands.
I ended up taking second in the Thompson points series this year. After leading the points battle most of the year I got past in the last points race held last weekend.
This weekend they held the September sizzler. This is the last main event of the year. Of course with no points on the line I return to my old ways and clean house. In the final I cut a 519 light and ran 9.738 on a 9.73 dial. Made him break out running a 9.57 on his 9.60 dial. This of course was this years points champion. After losing the points to him I got a little satisfaction last night. A co-worker came out with his son so I put him to work with the camera. Lets see if this works. Oh and I ran a new personal best of 9.70 @134. 60's are right around the corner. Not bad for a little 1166 motor with my 210 lbs on it.
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Good Job Ryan
I bet if you didn't have so many rain outs you would be #1. Not to bad with that 1166 engine too. Sounds like you'll be in the 5's real soon.1166cc 1/8 ET 6.09@111.88
1166cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.70@122.85
1395cc 1/8 ET 6.0051@114.39
1395cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.71@113.98 "With a broken wrist pin too"
01 Sporty 1/8 ET 7.70@92.28, 1/4 ET 12.03@111.82
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mike J
Jake, I'm still running stock gearing. I know it would probably go faster with a smaller front sprocket but stock gearing is almost too low for street riding as it is. I bought 4 new sets of stock rings so the topend may get a freshen up over the winter. I have no idea how amny miles the bike has on it because the speedo was missing when I got it. I have fixed most of it back to where it's a nice street bike now. I would really like to go up a tooth on the front sprocket but that would kill my times I'm sure. Yea I guess I'm hooked but not going to mess up this this bike just for racing. I have my 1100 that I need to get going. 1168 kit with 33's and a 7" slick on it. Mike J
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