Stators

[Anonymous]

Hello good people,
I am the proud owner of a 1983 GSX 1100 that I found in a garage with 1500 miles on it. Not a scratch. I have just turned 7000 miles and am having charging problems. I have been told that the stators in these GSX's is the one problem source that I can expect. Any other experiences with the stators in these fine machines is appreciated.
Sherm

[Billy Ricks]

If you know how to use a multi-tester go to the GSR Homepage and click on "In The Garage". You'll find a section called "The Stator Papers". It outlines how to check your charging system. The Suzuki shop manuals call fo a little bit different procedure. If you have trouble with the GSR method let me know and I'll post the Suzuki method. I'll also look back and try to find that procedure and post either a link or copy and paste it back here.

[Billy Ricks]

Here is the method Suzuki recommends. Your readings may be slightly different depending on your model, but should be close.

The testing procedure for my 700 involves disconnecting the three stator wires and running the bike at 5,000 rpm. You then place the probe of a multi-tester in each of the three wires. + probe in one terminal and - probe in another. Keep the + probe on the same wire and check the other two with the - probe. Then move the + probe to the next wire and check the other two with the - probe. Again + on the remaining wire. Check each of the wires against each other two this way. I'm not sure what voltage you should look for on an 1100, my 700 calls for 80 volts AC. You should get consistent readings on each attempt.

You can do a continuity check using the same procedure. With the motor off check each wire against the other two. You should get a tone if the stator is okay as far as shorts or breaks.

You can check you regulator/rectifier by following the Suzuki procedure below.

With the r/r removed from the bike, fins pointing up and terminals facing you, the terminals from left to right will be A, B, C, D, and E.
Negative probe on A and positive on B you should get 6-7.5 ohms.
Negative probe on A and positive on C you should get 6-7.5 ohms.
Negative probe on A and positive on D you should get 6-7.5 ohms.
Negative probe on A and positive on E you should get 50-70 ohms.

Then switch the negative probe to terminal B and place the positive probe on A, C, then D, you should get no reading. Positive on E should read 6-7.5 ohms.

Switch negative probe to C and positive to A, B, then D, you should get no reading. Positive on E should read 6-7.5 ohms.

Switch negative probe to D and positive to A, B, then C, you should get no reading. Positive on E should read 6-7.5 ohms.

Switch negative probe to E, positive to A, B, C, and D should give no reading.

Hope you can follow what I am outlining here.