.png "Powered by vBulletin")
Sorry Steve, that`s Arnouts website where that link leads, I can`t take credit for that incredible site...I don`t have website `cause I don`t know how to do one...But I have similar bike a little bit racier though and with monoshock. First I cut off that original battery bracket plate between back frame rails and weld wide L or U profile metal plate not straight (for that extra rigidity) in place for that upper mount. I can try send some pictures later but it`s not complicated. We use GSXR1100 exhausts, they fit straight into engine and ends well before that lower mounts. I?ve used Yoshimura 4:1 and my friend Bandit twelves Arrow exhaust and they are easily available. Eagle and Cobra have good exhausts too. I have a ?hlins shock with that adjustable (in height) upper mount.
-
-
That previous is ofcourse different than in your case because you have that beautiful new swingarm and I have that old crap from eighties...I`m so envious, in here (Finland) there are so few bikes that there aren`t so much new bikes in breakers, at least the parts are expensive. Haven`t you thought about single sider from Honda or Triumph? They are nice looking in GSX or R with under seat exhaust. While you are welding you should also weld tube between front down tubes like in Katana and tubes to the sides of the back frame (triangles). And you can also shorten the back frame `cause there aren`t twin shocks any more (lighter is better). In Arnout`s web site there are pictures from strenghtening the frame.Comment
-
Sami,
Right after I posted I realized that this may not have been your website. He did build a very nice bike.
A guestion about the exhausts - What year 1100 pipes did you use? I'm hoping that all GSXR1100 head pipe configurations are the same as far as spacing and diameter. I have some measurements off the new 1000's and they definetly do not fit.
The only frame bracing I've done at this point is the extra rigity added by the top shock mount and the reinforcement added to the lower engine/shock mount. I could remove some of the frame at the rear, but that means more modifications and I'm not sure exactly how to proceed.
I like that swingarm also. I fell in love with the looks of it as soon as I put it into position. Unfortunately it's a much more difficult fit than the earlier swingarms. The pivot bolt is much larger and its wider near the pivot bolt so I have to relocate the rear brake cylinder to a position on the frame that is not optimum. Well, who needs a rear brake anyway.
It will be there, I just need to do more messing around to get the linkage to fit.
There are still lots of details to work out. How to mount the headlamp assembly on the new forks. Do I want to use the GSXR instrument cluster instead of the GS (I hate the 80 mph speedo). Do i want to put a small cafe fairing on.
Fortunately I have a little time to sort these out as the engine is now being assembled. Not much modifications there. All new seals (had to buy individually as I could not find a kit!), oil pump, and gaskets of course. Other than that, possibly an 1168 piston kit (have not committed yet) along with a nice valve job. The 1100 always had a lot of zip and since I'm building for my son, I don't want to give him a monster. He's 21 and thinks he's invincible. Don't want to prove him wrong.
Sorry about the long post, but if you could give me info on the headers (year) it would sure make my job a lot easier. Again, I'll post pics when I get the frame back. I'm a lousey welder and want it done right.Comment
-
Steve,
You're going to have to stick to air/oil cooled Gixxer 1100 exhaust. I'm running a Yosh Duplex from an early '90s 750 model, don't remember exactly what year. It's the stainless model with the aluminum spigots and everytrhing attaches with springs. It's got an RS-3 carbon canister. The bozo on Ebay that auctioned the header and midpipe off spelled Yoshimura with an E instead of a U so nobody saw their auction. I don't remember how I ran across it. Picked that up for $125 then spent another $125 on the canister. Not bad for nearly $1000 worth of exhaust.Comment
-
Correct me if I'm wrong - but from the little bit of research that I've done the air/oil cooled motors were from 86 to 92. I thin they came out with the water cooled 1100 in 93. Is this what you have for info also? If so the I need to get a 86-92 header.
Another point of interest. I was looking at the Hindle website and notice that the 750 and 1100 exhause have the same part numbers for a few years int he 86-92 range. This leads me to believe they have the same dimensions at the exhaust port. The different p/n in other years then ahs something to do witht he mounting. Since I have to fab new mounts anyway, I can probably use the pipes from a 750 in the 86-92 range.
Oh, BTW, I just dropped the crank in today!Comment
-
That's correct, a buddy of mine has the '93 1100RW model and it's the first year of the watercoolers.Originally posted by SwannyComment
-
Hi! All the GSXR-line bikes has the same space between exhaust-ports so they all fit in all bikes. BUT 750-pipes are smaller in diameter and the height is smaller so they DON`T fit to 1100-engines they hit the oil pan! So use 1100-pipes 89-92 are best because the engine is bigger (1127 versus 1062 in 86-88 models). I had a Yoshi from -90 1100R and that was good. So stick to 1100R pipes in 1100 engine, they aren`t so restrictive in big engine as 750-pipes. For example in 91GSXR collector is 2" and in 1100 is over 2 1/2". I have also problem with the headlight, the original won`t fit anymore and I`m not so keen to go that streetfighter-style headlights.Comment
-
I know I've asked this before, but are you sure the 93-94 1100 pipes won't work? There are a couple of nice sets on ebay right now. One of the listings has a picture that shows the header pipes. They have the larger spacing between cylinders 2 and 3 like the GS. Thanks again for any info.Comment
-
Steve,
Use the ask the seller a question option on Ebay and have them measure center to center of each pipe and diameter at the port. Ask several of the sellers so one of them will answer. Be great to find out.Comment
-
..Right after I posted I realized that this may not have been your website. He did build a very nice bike...
well.. thanks for the compliment!
..What exhaust system is that?
that is a system consisting of a set of stainless 4-1 Cobra headers, a stainless collector (made for me by a local firm) and a homemade "straight through" muffler..
..I did modify the headers to make them fit a bit closer to the engine by shortening them though (cut sections off and welded back together again)
as for choosing a GSX-R exhaust, I am told all headers of oilcooled gixers should fit..
don't know about the 750's headers touching the sump...
(btw you'd still have to modify the collector + muffler to make it fit..)Comment
-
There are some photos here, http://groups.msn.com/SuzukiGSGarage...de.msnw?Page=1., of my bike with a GSX-R750 Yosh Duplex on my bike. Fits like a glove, but it is tight under the sump.Comment
-
Billy - I have asked a number of sellers on ebay the dimensions on the pipes (pre 92 and post 93) and from the responces I have gotten- it looks as if there is a difference in the spacing on these pipes. I might just be restricted to 92 and under echaust.
I looked at the pics of your bike - all I can say is nice - very nice.
Sami - thanks for the tip on which pipes to leep an eye out for.
I have a few more pics to post. I now have the cases back together. Here is a pic of that monumental feat. Everything checks out to specs so far. It's fun putting things back together - but getting to that stage is a bear. By that I mean cleaning. I hope you can tell how much effort I put into that. Also, check out the nice new 530 offset sprocket and cam chain. I an replacing all of the seals and gaskets. This should make the motor nice and leak free. The 1100 sure looks pretty.
I got the chassis back and have some mods to show you. Thye are not complete, but I hope this gives an idea of what I'm trying to do.
The lower shock mount has been attached to the lower cross bar that originally had the centerstand mounted to it. TO get the correct geometry for the links I had to use some fairly long mounts. I added strenght to this area by welding in a U shaped beam across the tubular area. I will now fab a second set of mouning ears to place on the outside of the ones already in place. This will give more reinforcement 1/2" on each side and (as a side benefit) the added width will make the bolt fit perfectly.
This setup should have more than enough strengh.
Here are 2 more pics of how this mounting scheme is taking shape.
The top shock mount is fabricated out of 1/4" plate. Pretty strong stuff. I think the top mount should be stong also, but I like to over-engineer critical components shuch as these. After the battery mount is complete I can get a better feel as to when I can strengthen it even more. There are some clearance issues that need to be dealt with.
Almost forgot - it took 2 tries to get the cases sealed properly. I used Hondabond and it works great - jsut as would Suzukibond or Yanabond. They say to put a very small mount of this on the mating surfaces. All I can say is - I put too little. There was none 'queezing out'. I cracked the cases again to find out that my application was too judicious. After cleaning the surfaces again - another coat, only thicker. This time just a tiny amount squeezed out. Perfect - I hope. Anyway, thought I'd relay that tho those that will do this in the future. You can have too little of this on your cases as well as too much. Kind of like the 3 bears - you need it 'just right'.Comment
-
Coming along nicely Steve. I'm glad to see how you are handling the shock mounts, that will help me later. You've got the cases looking great.Comment
-
Help finding correct parts
I also have a 1980 gs1100E, however this is my first bike. I'm not sure what a stock engine would put out since mine came with mods to it already, but it is scary fast. I thought I would never do anything to the bike until I came across this thread and it sounded like too good an idea to NOT do it. I'm having a problem finding parts for this same project though and since I am new to the motorcycle scene, I am thinking this may be why. I'll number these questions so anybody who replies will have an easier time doing so.
1 which bike line has inverted forks and will be able to bolt up to my bike?
2 other than the forks, what hardware will I need to make the
conversion work?(i.e. brake calipers, wheels, instrument pods, etc.)
3 why would I want to stay away from the 18" wheel?
4 why would I want to stay away from a shorter fork?
5 af6er the front fork conversion is done, which front
fairing/windscreen style do I use? (i.e. 1980 suzuki or whatever
model I got the forks off of)
6 other than the swing arm, what other hardware will I need to make the
conversion work?(i.e. wheel, brake calipers, etc.)
7 what would be the best years and models to use for each and why?
8 what wouldbe the worst years and models to use for each and why?
9 which would be the easiest/cheapest to come by
10 which would be the hardest and most expensive to come by?
11 exactly how much of a noob do I sound like?
Comment
-
1. '91 and up GSX-Rs. You need to make sure the front end you get has tapered bearings for the steering stem.Originally posted by thr3shold
2. The best thing to do is use a complete GSX-R front end. Wheel, rotors, calipers, etc. Otherwise you could spend just as much on machine work trying to make the GS stuff work and end up with less performance.
3. The GSX-Rs all have 17" wheels front and rear except for the '86 and '87. All the really good rubber comes in the wide 17" sizes.
4. Ground clearance.
5. THe GSX-R fairings are frame mounted so you would either have to adapt one or stick to a stock GS fairing. I've got a GS1150 fairing I'm going to use on mine.
6. You should be able to use a 4.5" wheel from the '88 and '89 Gixxers in your stock swingarm. You would need the wheel, sprocket carrier, spacers, caliper and caliper hanger from the same donor bike. Any wider and you need to do a swingarm swap and probably run into chain clearance problems with the wheel and frame. You can mount a 160 radial on the 4.5" wheel.
7. Depends on what you want. The best options have already been listed.
8. Don't use the '88 front end because of the clearance problem. The '86 and '87 gets you back into 18" wheels. Late model forks have the wrong type of bearings for the steering head. You need to stick to the tapered bearing models.
9. Ebay or salvage yards. If you go the Ebay route figure out what the max is you want to spend and bid with about 15 seconds left. If you win fine, if you don't there will be others.
10. There's usually plenty of parts with a little patience on Ebay.
11. Not nearly as bad as many that post here.Comment
Comment