Whats going on at the tracks

[lecroy]

So hows this work anyway? It looks like they use feet still. Why not meters if they don't use MPH?


Tell him good luck.

[Pharkmeh]

http://dragster.com.au/modules/news/article.php?storyid=1086

.....

So hows this work anyway? It looks like they use feet still. Why not meters if they don't use MPH?


Tell him good luck.

hahaha - thx for cleaning that up for meh m8... I was on the way to work when I posted....

and I dont even mind working Sunday morning .........except when its a perfect 30 degrees C and my m8s take off on a 6 hour ride to no where (my favorite place)... *$*(_%$#(@(^@

sigh

[lecroy]

Noticed they ended up with a buy it now on the crank. He must have three accounts that he kept bidding against himself with. I figured after that he couldn't be trusted so I didn't take it.

I saw that second one that had the 750 gear. Maybe this one found a good home.

Ryan, you have a package coming in the mail. You should have ot tomarrow.

I ended up shipping the transmission to FBG. I got word today that they think they can repair it. It sounds like they found a crack in third. So it needs the input shaft and 2nd gear I supplied along with 5th output, 1st output, billet third output, new bearings and recut to spec. They think it will take running in the 7.90's.

I would have liked to have seen the bike it was in. So far both FBG and Robinson did not think the original parts would handle a funny bike let alone running the 7's. I'm sure there is more to this story.

I just need to practice all winter, no second gear burnout, no second gear burnouts, no second gear burnouts....

[rosco15]

I took a chance with it. Hopefully it's good and he didn't lie about the 20 passes.

I started working on making the slider activate with an air cylinder. I'm going to start putting the parts together and have a local machine shop help with the work.

The plan is for drilling thru the center of the boss and using a thin rod to push on the pressure plate. The steel pusher will rides right on the pressure plate with no thrust bearing like in an H2 kaw. Then machine out the inside of the hat to make room for it. The other end of the pusher would be a ball bearing and then the pusher rod or air cylinder. You would use a bushing of some type to trap the ball bearing in the clutch over behind the bearing for the hat. The ball bearing would allow the pusher rod to spin. As long as you don't wring the heck out of it when the air cylinder is engaged it should be ok.

The rod on an H2 pusher is too thick. I need something thinner so i can drill a small hole in the hat. I'm going to go hunting a lifter from a briggs and stratton engine. I think it may be what I need.

[lecroy]

Did you have to pay the full seven? That 20 passes was after it was inspected, not the total number of passes. It could be a five year old part. I could not get this from him. There should be a serial number on it, so once you have it you can contact them to get an idea of the history.

I am not sure I follow. It sounds like you plan to drill a hole into the that little nipple on the hat and mount your valve stem there. If this is the plan, I bet we have damaged this nipple on 5 hats over the last 3 years. I am thinking that if you remove material from this area it may make it worse. We have tried to repair them but never seem to get enough penitration in the welds.

I assume you have the cover for it. Once you drill a hole thru it for the valve stem, how do you plan to modify the cover to hold the hardware that will push on the pin?

Too bad you can't just change the stall. Maybe you could lower it enough to make it rideable without making any mods. Or you could buy you wife a mini-bike for Christmas.

[rosco15]

That is exactly the plan. I don't like the idea of weakening that area either. The only person I've ever seen do this did it on a kz1000. He told me he drilled a hole in the center of the nipple and went straight thru it with a push rod. he never commented on having trouble with that nipple only that he did have trouble with cracking the cover from the pressure of the air cylinder. he said he's been running it this way for a couple years.

I want to get a quick access cover, beef it up, and bolt a cylinder like this to the outside. http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg...mId=1613551243

Then put a bushing behind the bearing in the cover where the pusher and air cylinder rod would meet with a ball bearing between them.

[lecroy]

Ok, we are on the same page. Did you get some pictures of your friends bike? I would like to see how he had this setup on his.

How do you plan to control the pressure / force on the pack. It would seem you would need some sort of proportional valve to make it rideable.

Interesting that your friends is a Kaw. Take this for what it's worth. We have one Kaw and the rest are Suz's. All with sliders. The Kaw can run for year (really) without touching the clutch. The Suz's need to be checked every few passes. The Suz. crack plates and tear the tit off. The Kaw does nothing. I asked about this a few times and this is one reason we have a new buike being built, a Kaw. They oil the plates for one thing (not sure how much this has to do with it) where the Suz's run dry. The other thing is the Kaw makes no power. We have ever ruined a few on the kids bike with the 7" tire.

I will say this, since we sent the parts off to MTC and had them install the larger studs we ran all season without any problems (except the cracked plates).

[rosco15]

I didn't get any pics and I didn't see inside the cover. He had it at 42 one day. Somebody told me about him and i just got lucky and ran into him one day.

I didn't think really about controlling the pressure. I figured the springs seem to be about 175 lbs total. 35 lbs each. So the cylinder I'm looking at puts out 175 lbs at 100 psi. I'm not really looking for the cylinder to lock it up, but rather to keep it locked up.

Think of the air cylinder on the air clutch. With the clutch out if I hit the button there isn't enough pressure to pull the cluch lever back. But if I hold the lever in and then hit the cylinder it holds it back no problem.

So the though is get on the return road, wack the throttle and as the arms start locking the clutch up hit the button to activate the cylinder to keep it locked up. Then let the rpm drop to 2500 or so and motor up the return road.

The ides is there now it's just a matter of figuring out each part to make it work.

oh and I got the switch. Thats a cool part. now I see what you mean by needing thin gloves. I take it the idea is to press slowly on the button till it clicks. Seems like it would give you very consistant pressure on the button. Thanks, I appreciate it.

Oh and as a side note I'm thinking about contacting mtc and see if they would make me a hate with a wider button. then change the bearig in the hat to one that would accomodate it. I wonder if this has been asked of them before.

[lecroy]

Hey, glad you got the switch. Yes, you push it in all the way and then feel where it just starts to hang up, then hold it there. I wasn't kidding about the gloves. I have heard of all sorts of crazy things from thinner leather to the type of leather used in this area. I have seen a few guys who put holes in their gloves. Hope you get some good use out of it.

Think of the air cylinder on the air clutch. With the clutch out if I hit the button there isn't enough pressure to pull the cluch lever back. But if I hold the lever in and then hit the cylinder it holds it back no problem.

So the though is get on the return road, wack the throttle and as the arms start locking the clutch up hit the button to activate the cylinder to keep it locked up. Then let the rpm drop to 2500 or so and motor up the return road.

I have so many people who don't watch pull out in front of us I feel very luckey we have never hit anyone. If you have a button to lock it, what happens when cars are driving slow in front of you?






It sure wouldn't hurt to ask about the hat.

[lecroy]

I bought another turbo on eBay. These are just as bad as buying a used crank.

This one appears to have had a long life on a car I would guess. Maybe 60,000 miles or so. A lot of heat with oil baked on everything. The best part is it looks like it was pulled for no real reason and sat on a shelf for 10 years. There was no sign of any oil in it or the lines. There was some signs that the seals were leaking a bit, but nothing real major. The bearing was still in fair condition. The only other thing I could see was the heat shield had started to warp. It had one of the stamped ones, so I'm not too surprized.

The compressor housing and wheel are in perfect condition. It's a E (big) and I plan to use this to solve my flow problem with the F. The bearing housing was also in perfect condition. Its the common single fed type, but a good spare.

Plan to resell the turbine and housing as they are also an E type. Way too big for this little engine.

How many of us are building our bikes from old eBay junk?

[lecroy]

Already starting to feel the withdraws.

Got up at 6:00 (raining), had the bike prep'ed by 9:00 (still raining). 11:00 the sun comes out and the sky turns blue. Temps get into the 60's. I called, but they already cancelled. Warm and sunny the rest of the day. The track is open only one more day.

[rosco15]

Mark,

Give me your opinion. I got that Falicon supercrank today. Remember he said Very Good Condition with less then 20 passes. I'm concerned about the gold color on the races and small end of the rods. Pics aren't the best, but click on them to blow them up a bit. Oh and that is rust on the taper at the starter nut. To me my crank after 2 and a half years looked better than this. It does have a Falicon # on it, but very hard to read. Might be 320621414.

http://rccracing.com/personalpage/crank.htm

[lecroy]

Check your PM