My GS1100 Oil cooler conversion with pics:

[katman]

braided line isn't for dress up, its for durability. Threaded fittings are far superior to push on though with the low presure push on will work.

Thermostate? why do you want to do that?

[topher1556]

braided line isn't for dress up, its for durability. Threaded fittings are far superior to push on though with the low presure push on will work.

Thermostate? why do you want to do that?

I understand that braided lines are for durability, but with the low pressure these bikes make, I'd rather save the cash (how much wear is a cooler line going to experience anyways?). I have a 26yr old bike that just needs some maintenance to get it back up to date. It's going to be my daily rider, so I want to prevent as many problems as possible. It's not nearly as nice as yours (katman) so looks aren't all that important right now.

And the oil thermostat is so that the oil gets properly warmed up, and in cooler weather doesn't keep the engine from running on the cold side.

So, here are my real questions:

I have a selection of coolers to use...1 1150 stock cooler, a universal lockhart cooler, and another cooler from an unknown origin (although I know it's a nippendenso unit). Which should I use? and how much will I have in the lines (if I go braided) as well as connectors? Two of the coolers (the 1150, and the 'denso) use banjo bolts at the cooler side...could these be replace with a screw in 3/8" or other type of adapter instead of trying to make lines to work? Or would I be better off just using the lockhart, and slapping it on? No matter what I'm going to have to figure out lines/connections, I just know I'm gonna need help :-].

Ugh!

[Jethro]

Any lines you use should be protected. My stock 1150 cooler has standard high temp plastic hose, but it is protected in a kevlar type of braid. The cooler lines are right behind the header pipes (hot, HOT) and being in front of the engine are suspect to road debris and such hitting them. Also, the braid protects the junction of the fitting and the hose. Oil lines are not something you want to cheap on, if one get's a tear or a hole and sprays oil all over your rear tire you are in a bad way. Even if you don't crash, you are stranded, and if you don't realize you are leaking oil, you will see the oil light come on about .000000832 seconds before your engine sezies.

If you use the stock cooler you can use the stock lines and the fittings on either side of the oil filter cover. That's what I would suggest.

[Tom MLC]

I'd like to jump in on this thread. I'm also in the process of installing an oil cooler on my '80 GS1100E. I picked up a used Lockhart on ebay. It has a built in thermostat. There is a number stamped on the top, but it's at the house, so I can't tell you what it is right now. It has barbs for the hoses, and would require cutting & braising to replace with any type of threaded fitting.

I mounted the cooler with the fittings on the top, using the two 8MM female holes on the front of the frame. Looks like it was made to fit there. No modification necessary.

I was going to use the two fittings beside the oil filter cover. In fact, I bought a 1150 oil cooler cover on ebay. Then I heard through the GSR about Terry's adapter. I decided to go that way. I haven't installed his unit yet, but it looks terrific. Nice craftsmanship. It will replace the oil pressure sensor plate below the cam tensioner. Comes with all hardware for mounting, including a gasket, and barbed fittings for oil in & out. With Terry's adapter, and the oil cooler mounted "upside down" I plan to route my lines (steel braided push on - with pinch clamps) through the frame and over the top of the motor like renobruce did.

I should be finished this week (Man, I'm need to ride this weekend). I can post a few pics after I'm done. Renobruce has the pics of his setup posted, too.

Any thoughts from more experienced GS'ers? You guys are the GURU's.

[AOD]

They are 14mm x 1.5 pitch. I can get the AN fittings that fit for 20.00 pair. The same as that is on my bike in the pic above if anyone wants them.

Katman, I'd be interested in the AN fittings that fit the block. I rather not go back to the banjo fittings if possible. I removed a stock 1150 cooler from my 1100 because I didn't have the 1150 oil filter cover and I believe it leaked slightly onto the exhaust.

If I could replace the hoses on the stock cooler with fittings and such, I'd consider putting it back on.

~Adam

[topher1556]

Okay, okay...I give. Braided it is then. I guess using a typical transmission cooler line with a cloth type braid would not have been good enough.

[AOD]

bump for Katman.

[topher1556]

So...

Can the dummy bolts be replaced with a bolt that has a 3/8" or similar barb-type connector so we can at least just push on the hose and clamp it? If this can be done, where can I get the stuff???

[katman]

Katman, I'd be interested in the AN fittings that fit the block. I rather not go back to the banjo fittings if possible. I removed a stock 1150 cooler from my 1100 because I didn't have the 1150 oil filter cover and I believe it leaked slightly onto the exhaust.

If I could replace the hoses on the stock cooler with fittings and such, I'd consider putting it back on.

~Adam

I have a couple sets here Adam. email me stunts@telus.net with your address and I will get a pic out to you. Do you paypal?

[katguy]

Oil Cooler Issues

I'm probably not as knowledgable as KatMan... but I believer if you use the same set up as he has you still need to use the 1150 cover... without it, oil will not flow thru the gallies that are next to the cover. I'm using a cooler that I purchased from J.C. Whitney that's made in Canada. It's slightly larger and has NPT fittings on it which makes it an easy line attachment for AN fittings. It's a bit thicker and the vanes run at an angle rather than straight thru which is suppose to create more cooling surface. As I recall it's quite reasonably priced.. in fact I run the same cooler on my 1200 Bandit. I also run a V & H oiler system that takes it from the pressure fitting under the cam chain tensioner... only I run the oil from there to the Exhaust cams where most of the heat is generated... with the belief that this is where the cooling effect of the oil should do the most good. I have pics to post if someone can explain how that's done.
Steve

[Road_Clam]

IMO, the 1150 cover is simply a method for slightly increasing flow pressure via a semi-restricted passageway on the feed side of the o/f cavity. It's my guess the stock GS1100 engineered oil system doesn't produce quite enough pressure to pump oil up to an auxillary cooler.

Before I installed my lines, I had to make sure I installed the pressure feed oil line into the corresponding oil cooler inlet. I placed both lines in a coffee can, and fired up my bike, and at a high idle the oil flows out at a pretty good rate from the 1150's RH port (which is the port that has the casted restrictor in it)

[katman]

the 1150 plate all but blocks the oilway. without it no oil gets up to the cooler. the 1100 has plenty of presure to feed the cooler. without the restrictor no bike would send the oil to the cooler.
All you need to do is feel the lines to know they are working cuz they are very hot.
put an 1100 plate on an 1150 and you will see no oil gets to the cooler either.

[hungryman]

IMO, the 1150 cover is simply a method for slightly increasing flow pressure via a semi-restricted passageway on the feed side of the o/f cavity. It's my guess the stock GS1100 engineered oil system doesn't produce quite enough pressure to pump oil up to an auxillary cooler.

Before I installed my lines, I had to make sure I installed the pressure feed oil line into the corresponding oil cooler inlet. I placed both lines in a coffee can, and fired up my bike, and at a high idle the oil flows out at a pretty good rate from the 1150's RH port (which is the port that has the casted restrictor in it)

The reduced port is not for increasing oil pressure, but to divert oil to the cooler. My guess is that the small orifice is to keep the motor from siezing when some idiot removes the cooler and doesn't swap out the plate. Dummy insurance.

[bbutler455]

Let me make sure I have it right

OK, as I understand it. For my 82 GS1000SV Katana, I track down a complete 1150 (year?) banjo bolt / braided SS oil line / oil filter cover / and oil cooler. I would need to fabricate attachment brackets for the cooler. The oil lines go to banjo bolts that replace the big bolts on the sides of the filter cover. The one on the right is output.

Do I have it right?

[Road_Clam]

OK, as I understand it. For my 82 GS1000SV Katana, I track down a complete 1150 (year?) banjo bolt / braided SS oil line / oil filter cover / and oil cooler. I would need to fabricate attachment brackets for the cooler. The oil lines go to banjo bolts that replace the big bolts on the sides of the filter cover. The one on the right is output.

Do I have it right?

The problem is you will never find a set of oil lines. That GS guru "Katman" knows of a special fitting that threads right into the block instead of the stock Suzuki banjo bolt. I did not know of this option until I was almost done with my setup. PM him and he can explain it in better detail.