Master Cylinder Ratio Chart

[Dink]

Jeff (8track)
I suggest you look at new brake lines first.
I am using stock (original probably) lines on both my 1100's (one is an 1150 for the 'mericans) using Vesrah pads and Castrol SRF brake fluid ( I am told the same stuff used in Formula 1 cars) it isn't cheap, but the difference in brake feel and power is worth it. I am the one "claiming stoppies" with all original brakes.
Dink

[AOD]

*bump*

Send in your master cylinder size if you can find it...

I plan to look tonight when I change the oil...if I remember...

[8trackmind]

*bump*

Send in your master cylinder size if you can find it...

I plan to look tonight when I change the oil...if I remember...

I'm still trying to figure out what bore my Katana master is. It's not stamped anywhere on it. I'll PM you when I find it. No rush. There's not much interest by the folks here anyway.
Btw, the 550 will now do stoppies with the Katana master, stock lines and stock pads. All I'm looking to do now is decrease the lever travel by about 4mm. If I can't I'll just live with it. :-D

[AOD]

Remember, more lever travel, higher pressure, better braking feel. I think I may live with it...

And man...I really want to feel what a 550 with twin rotors stops like!

~Adam

[8trackmind]

Remember, more lever travel, higher pressure, better braking feel. I think I may live with it...

And man...I really want to feel what a 550 with twin rotors stops like!

~Adam

Like hitting a wall...](*,)
It will stop faster than a EX500 Ninja with a 17" front wheel, a 280mm rotor and a dual piston caliper. The 550 is way heavier too.

[HiSPL]

The single disc models had a master cylinder with a smaller bore. I tried to use a rebuild kit from a 750E once on a 750T M/C. It didn't fit. The E models seals were just a little to big to go into the T's M/C.

You could try to snag a M/C from a 750T, 550 or 450 and give it a try. If you can find the 750T's M/C it is a real nice all aluminum unit. Cast resevoir and cylinder is all one piece and the top is cast alu too.

[AOD]

I looked at my master cylinder from the bottom while it was installed this past week. Stock '83 1100E's have a 5/8" master cylinder diameter.

I bled the system at the master cylinder, which I had never done before. I did this by putting a rag under / around the banjo then squeezing the lever and loosening the bolt. Of course, I sent brake fluid flying everywhere on the first pull. :roll: I squeezed and loosened it twice to bleed it.

Initial impressions to me was that the 'woody' feeling was better. I switched bikes with my friend who rode it 3 weeks ago and he agreed it had a lot better lever feel than before.

I still want something that bites harder. I'm not sure I'm going to get there by just changing the master cylinder. Steel braided lines aren't going to do it all either, unless I'm way off. I don't feel the brake lines buldging at all now...

~Adam

[AOD]

More comments:

Going back to the master cylinder chart, http://www.vintagebrake.com/mastercylinder.htm , my 38mm (2) pistions sized to a 5/8" master cylinder give me a ratio of 11.46. Target would be close to a ratio 14 so the initial goal to find a 14mm diameter master cylinder.

~Adam

[Nerobro]

I'll measure my master cylinders this weekend. All of them. ;-) I do love the "brick wall" feeling my GS5/650 has.

[8trackmind]

I'll measure my master cylinders this weekend. All of them. ;-) I do love the "brick wall" feeling my GS5/650 has.

Post a picture of that fork too.:-D
(like you promised to six months ago )
Not really, but it seems that long.:-D

[Jethro]

I have all stock braking components other than the steel braided lines and Vesrah pads. I did however replace all the caliper pistons and seals, and the master cyl piston and seal. The bike stops hard and fast, as hard and fast as I could want. The braided lines didn't seem to increase overall braking power by a whole lot, but the feel is much better. I can feel when the pads start to really grip the rotors. I could definitely do a stoppie, if not for the fear of the act itself...

I ran some kind of fancy, smancy racing brake fluid as well, and bled the master cyl. I even retained the original 5 line setup up front, and still the feel is excellent.

[AOD]

I did however replace all the caliper pistons and seals, and the master cyl piston and seal.

Jethro, did you buy the parts for the master cylinder from Suzuki directly? There is no aftermarket rebuild kit available for our bikes...

[8trackmind]

Here is some more info for the nay sayers. Link
This is from a company that distributes stanless steel lines.
I am actually barking up the right tree here, you guys just need to think outside the box bit. :-D
SS lines may improve feel, but they don't actually increase stopping power. A smaller bore master cylinder will.

[quakeholio]

SS lines will decrease lever travel, a very good thing, it will give a firmer feel. The calipars on the CBX was used by honda on most of there models after '82 so calipars are pretty common. I have a spare set of the double pot honda's and I was wondering if they would fit on the GS, simple to find out.

One way to help the braking power is to increase the size of the pads. That is why I have the Double pistons that will (someday) replace the single pot's on my CB900C. Another option is increasing the diameter of the rotor, this will give better braking. If you don't believe me, it dosen't matter to me, Buell agrees, some of there models have a single disc in the front that bolts to the rim, not the hub.

[8trackmind]

If you don't believe me, it dosen't matter to me

What was that all about? If I hurt your feelings, I apologize.

I'm trying to get people to consider the whole braking system. Not just the pads and the lines. :-D The master cylinder is always ignored..I know using a smaller bore master works, I'm using one everyday. I know the stock parts can be made to do a better job because I'm doing it.

As far as larger rotors, or some custom fabrication, I'm not there yet. A gsxr fork swap would make better sense if you wanted to go all out , but you give up the look (and the wheels) of a stock GS.

If anyone is looking to improve their stock GS brakes. At least consider using a smaller bore (14mm) master along with the standard ss lines and decent brake pads. (which I never questioned)