What's going on in your garage? Part II

[Busafied]

started finding all my motor parts, and goodies for the rebuild \\/

[lecroy]

Our awards banquet was this weekend for 131. I had a fun time talking with all the bikers. They had a lot of nice looking cars there. The kid got his gold card and jacket for 1st. Team Green took it pretty good. They took 3rd in the Summit points series and 2nd at 131.

We got the new crank in from Pearson for my friends street bike so I started putting the two motors together. I'm still missing a few parts for mine but hope to get everything in the next week. It just needs a head.



I found these cases at Norwalk during a Prostar event for $150. They had a lower stud kit and were bored to 3.5". No damage. Crank has new bearings, Falicon gear and full weld job. Has the 492 no dimple rods. Basket is an MTC billet. The transmission is stock backcut by FBG along with new bearings. Pistons are 78mm flats. Still waiting on the cylinder block and head to come back. It's not much to look at with the bad paint but it should run pretty good.

[RacingJake]

Found a couple of pieces from my exhaust camshaft in the bottom of the case today when I tore it apart. I guess thats what cause me to bend a few valve's. I'm thinking one of those pieces was flying around inside the cam tunnel and caused the chain to jump a few teeth. Makes sence cause the bike started up and after a few seconds that's when all the banging started. Maybe to much old locktight inside the treads caused the bolt flange to break off??????????

[minutemen]

Or too much torque on the bolt.Thats what I did on my V&H12041s. But I caught it before I ran the engine.

[lecroy]

I bought a set of slotted gears from XXX that did not fit quite flat to the surface and I did not notice it until it was too late. Cracked the cam. Why do they use those stupid non-standard bolts anyways. I tried to find some cap heads for these, no luck....

Is the new head any better?

[RacingJake]

It could of been that too, can't remmember how many times I'd played with the cam timing....it was alot.

That head at a friend's machine shop, he's going to weld a bead for the GS cam guide to stay put. I should get it back by next week.

I also found some 28mm freeze plugs that should work to plug up the oil return holes in the head. Once those 2 things are done then it's RTV time for the block, rear cam tunnel and valve cover.

I'm also going with a 530 chain conversion to reduce rotating weight and also save 2 pounds using a 530 chain.

It's getting there....

[lecroy]

New spacer (aluminum) with other gaskets. Parts made it in from Schnitz as well. Started putting more of it together then noticed I had forgotten to order a couple of parts. More waiting......



The spacer alone will get me a deck height of 0.010. Next to it is a 0.005" gasket. Plan to just run the spacer. The bike needs as much help as it can get coming out of the hole. It's so lame....

[lecroy]

I bought a set of slotted gears from XXX that did not fit quite.....

LOL, came across the box, XXX = Cir-Cycle out of Cleveland. Now this is going back a few years......

My latest eBay purchase. The E cylinder. $30, holds about 7.5 pounds. Little tank I bought at a swap meet about 30 years ago for $10. I think it was $20 or so to have them recertified. I always get the strange looks when it comes time to refill. Plan to shift off the nitrous this year. Tried it out last month and it works like a charm. So the air tank is no more.

[brveagle]

New spacer (aluminum) with other gaskets. Parts made it in from Schnitz as well. Started putting more of it together then noticed I had forgotten to order a couple of parts. More waiting......



The spacer alone will get me a deck height of 0.010. Next to it is a 0.005" gasket. Plan to just run the spacer. The bike needs as much help as it can get coming out of the hole. It's so lame....

Those gaskets/spacer look nice! Hopefully mine will be arriving from cometic by the end of the weekend.... Mine's a little thicker though... .188"

[rosco15]

Man I'm so stuck. I waited too late to order some of the parts I need. Got the cases back in the frame, but can't go any further. I'm waiting on the new cometic gaskets and new rings for my pistons. Also have a new rear sprocket on the way due to my primary gear change. From 750 to 1100.

I'm hoping the rest of the parts I need come next week.

[lecroy]

We have way too much snow to worry about racing just yet.

We got the cylinders back for the street bike. We were going to use a stock base, but it puts the pistons about 42 in the hole! It has the small sleves so we need to get some copper ones ordered for it.

I went to check the new clutch and noticed that with no shim it was over 0.030"!! I started looking then remember this was an 82, before they used the shims. Had to put a newer bearing into it then was able to shim it back to 0.06mm. Looks pretty good. If yours is still tight Ryan, I asked what they were setting the sliders to and I guess it is around 0.006", so pretty sloppy. I am not sure why they set them this loose.

The two one cylinder engines...




This is the optical pickup for the Martek ignition I mentioned. You can just see the lens. This was before I ever even heard of Dyna, late 70's. High tech for it's day for sure.

[RacingJake]

File down the lip on my V&H pro pipe and they went right in the Katana head.

Since I'm not running bars this year and if I mount them this way it should help prevent wheelies due to the hot expanding gases jet force thingy......I think

[lecroy]

I would mount the motor upside down. Better lube for the top end. Don't forget the move the vent hole...

[lecroy]

I was talking about setting the stackup in the clutch and someone has asked how to do it. I am pretty old school about this stuff so if you have a better way fill us in....

Ok, lets start by explaining what I am talking about. The newer (83 and up) GS used different parts in the clutch bearing assembly than the older types and requires shims to get the stackup. Say you buy a new basket with a Falicon SC gear and put it into your 82. It's going to fit just fine, except if you measure it, it would be way out of spec. This is the problem I ran into with that little street bike I am working on. So I ditched the old 82 parts and put some 84 parts in.

Timing was good for this. I had torqued the street bike, but my engine is still waiting on a few parts so the clutch is out. Picture time....

This first picture shows all the parts that make up the clutch. They are mounted left to right. If we call these A - L (left to right), E being the basket, G is really the only part that changes. The older GS's had a wider bearing. Part H is the shim. Notice there is a paper bag of shims just above it. These are all stock OEM parts you can buy. I think there are 5 sizes. Or you can grind your own.



The manuals used to talk about placing the parts on a table to make the measurement. I never did it this way. Instead I run a bolt through the assembly.



Here you can see the shim.


There is no reason to put any more parts once the larger bearing has been installed. Yes, that is a buffer wheel washer. Helps to keep things in the center....


From the backside, I slide the feeler gauge between the oil pump gear and the basket. This is supposed to be 0.08mm (I think) max. I always try to get this around 0.06mm. Shims are hard to tell apart unless you mark them. I don't so I use the calipers to figure out which one is which. I start with the thickest shim. See how sloppy it is then pick the one I want to use. I take it back apart, put the new shim in and remeasure it.

I just finger tighten the nut/bolt that holds the assembly together.

I guess that's it. Hope this helps.

[lecroy]

Stupid 4 picture limit.....



Oh yea, one last little catch. I am for sure no expert on this, but my friends who I help out with all run sliders. They were friends with Tony (introduced me at one time, nice guy) and I guess they set these up a little loose. I am in the mode where I just do what I am told when I work on their bikes, but from what I remember they want the basket a little loose to keep it from binding in the outside bearing that supports the hat. I understand that 0.006" is the magic number, but don't hold me to it.