What's going on in your garage? Part II

[lecroy]

Looks like he does nice work.

I have seen a few bikes with this fairing. Looks good. I think it would look better with something to break the red up.

How close are you to Beasley?

[rosco15]

Beasley is a about 15-20 minutes from my house. He makes all kinds of parts. He had 2 race cars in there he was working on. Those mini formula 1 type cars with the busa engines in them. He seems like he keeps things pretty small. It was just him and 1 other employee there when I stopped by. He took me over into his warehouse and showed me a bunch of the different style fairings he makes. Made making the decision easier.

I'll have to think on the paint. I was thinking all red. I'm not sure it it would flow with the body if I added other colors to it.

[lecroy]

I may need a favor from you at some point.

I was thinking that in the front fender you have a red/black design, the tail is black with a red stripe, the tank is all red, so I was thinking that the inlays may look nice with some black. Paintshop time.

[lecroy]

The long wait is almost over. Now that the snow is finally starting to fall, the new parts are starting to show up.

This is the spare engine for the drag bike. Same basic engine I am running now but hopefully will carry me into the 7's.
Still waiting on a few parts from Schnitz and I need to decide on what to do for a head. The cases are compliments from Ryan. Big thanks for passing these onto me!! They are stock 1150 cases bored to except the big bore. MTC turbo pistons, APE wrist pins, OE studs, MTC billet basket with Falicon gear, bebuilt R&D transmission by FBG (w/ pro-cut, billet 2nd,3rd and output shaft), Pearson crank with new bearings, 493 rods and Falicon gear.

Matching shift drum, all new forks, rods and every other part......

[Baatfam]

The long wait is almost over. Now that the snow is finally starting to fall, the new parts are starting to show up.

This is the spare engine for the drag bike. Same basic engine I am running now but hopefully will carry me into the 7's.
Still waiting on a few parts from Schnitz and I need to decide on what to do for a head. The cases are compliments from Ryan. Big thanks for passing these onto me!! They are stock 1150 cases bored to except the big bore. MTC turbo pistons, APE wrist pins, OE studs, MTC billet basket with Falicon gear, bebuilt R&D transmission by FBG (w/ pro-cut, billet 2nd,3rd and output shaft), Pearson crank with new bearings, 493 rods and Falicon gear.

Matching shift drum, all new forks, rods and every other part......

Damn, I'm jealous.......A new set of clutch discs can break the bank for me....

Looks cool....good luck on the 7s....:-D

Bob T.

[BadBillyB]

Now that I quit drooling, I just have to ask...You are running an auto transmission aren't you ????.......Dont see any evidence of that in the pics....Thats good for at least 1-2 tenths.....Just curious....BadBillyB

[lecroy]

Hey Bob, havn't seen you post in a while. You getting much snow in your area?

Now that I quit drooling, I just have to ask...You are running an auto transmission aren't you ????.......Dont see any evidence of that in the pics....Thats good for at least 1-2 tenths.....Just curious....BadBillyB

This is a real good question. The short answer is no.

I don't want to have to have someone help me with my bike. I have been a pit boy for a long time and its a pain. So, there is no outboard starter, no slider and no auto. To get into the 7's is going to take a lot of power and I need to let em dangle a little lower....

I am sure you already know this Bill, but I will explain for those interested in what your talking about.

The four common setups I see are back cut, pro-cut, 2-3 auto and full auto.

First, an auto transmission does not have anything to do with auto shifting the bike (which I do). It means it does not require any engine kill time in order to shift. You need to remember that in many cases like mine, the bike works something like this. Sit on bike and start, push in button, hold throttle wide open, wait for lights, let go of button. Oh yea, pray. The throttle is held wide open from take off till shut down. The engine speed is limited by the ignition. In my case the MC-4. So to shift, the engine has to unload and we do this with a kill timer. Kill times can vary all over the place from bike to bike. Too much is no fun and it feels like you may go over the handle bars. Too little and the bike won't change up.

Backcut is very common. Gears are cut on an angle to keep them locked. Look at stock 1100 GS transmission and you will see this to some degree. This is what I have in motor 1 and it works fine. The down side, like Bad said is the long kill times. These graphs are from my data logger. The two top curves are the crank shaft speed and the output shaft speed in RPM. The center curve is the boost pressure in PSIG. The bottom lines are switch inputs, and the blue one of these is when the air shift fires. Notice how the boost pressure drops when I hit the kill and how long it takes to recover.



A full auto need no kill. A 2-3 auto need kill from 3-4 and 4-5 but not 1-2 and 2-3. Obviously if your killing the motor you loosing time. I sounds great, but there is one little gotcha. If you cut the throttle, expect a few hundred $$$ repair bill. This can be real fun if say you race points on a 1/4 mile track with a full auto and then have to switch up to a 1/8. Or, say the bike gets a little sideways, you can see how low your balls will hang, or risk damage to the parts.

On a GS tranny there are 6 dogs that lock the gears together and 6 slots. Slots are removed and so are dogs. Every other one. This creates a big dead zone. Of course, parts are weaker as an expence. Springs are added along with ramps that help push the gears apart. The ramps can create enough force to bend the forks when you let off the throttle.

(A friends full auto....)



Then we have pro-cut, which is what I am using. Pro cut is a cross between the two. The dogs are angle cut and half of them and the slots are removed. This allows you to greatly reduce the kill time but does not have the side effect of damaging parts when chopping.

A few other things to mention, stock gears do not seem to hold up real well. A stock gear might only be $50 where a billet may run you $200 for the same part. But you don't want this sort of thing to happen....

[bwringer]

Do I even want to know what powder coating the cases costs?

[Dink]

Do I even want to know what powder coating the cases costs?

You mightnt but I do.

Dink

[lecroy]

I have to defer to Ryan.

[Baatfam]

Hey Bob, havn't seen you post in a while. You getting much snow in your area?

Been hanging out in the "Off-topic" area waiting for spring:-D And no, we haven't had much snow at all.

Almost time to start gettin' ready for '07 though....
Can't wait\\/

Bob T.

[rosco15]

I shot those with acrylic enamel in the garage. The color is code 81 flame red. So it was just the cost of materials and the wife yelling at me for getting paint fumes in the house.

[lecroy]

Been hanging out in the "Off-topic" area waiting for spring:-D And no, we haven't had much snow at all.

Almost time to start gettin' ready for '07 though....
Can't wait\\/

Bob T.

I figured you would be snowed in and wrenching. We got a little snow yesterday but it's melting fast.

New engines modified clutch hub and hat on left, stock on right. Buttons for lock-up and thin down backing plate and extend groves to add extra plate.

[lecroy]

I get in trouble for using the bathroom and kitchen sinks.

[BadBillyB]

First, an auto transmission does not have anything to do with auto shifting the bike (which I do). Kill times can vary all over the place from bike to bike. Obviously if your killing the motor you loosing time. I sounds great, but there is one little gotcha. If you cut the throttle, expect a few hundred $$$ repair bill.

If your using an auto shifter are you shifting each gear at a different RPM???...With a 1-2-3 auto, you would be amazed at how smooth your riding will become. That 2nd gear shift always unloads the tire and chassis. It also allows you to reduce the "kill time" for 4th and 5th. It's worth at least a tenth and a half on any track. I rode mine back to the pits many, many times with this set up and never had any problems. You just have to be aware of how it works, which obviously you do. As far as repairs go, about the worst you could do is bend a fork (which I never did in 5 or 6 years) and there is a mod you can do ("trap door"), that allows you to change forks between rounds by removing, I think, just the oil pan.....Saw a guy do it at a motel parking lot in about 30 minutes back in the day......Anyway, I noticed from the info from your data logger, that the boost fell off more during the 3-4 and 4-5 shift, than it did from the lower gears. Reducing the kill time for the 3-4 and 4-5 shifts by using an auto 1-2-3 , may net you some more MPH ......Good luck getting into the 7's, that was my next goal back in 1991 when I retired........BadBillyB