The bell is only on there so I can roll it over by hand. I gave up on eBay and plan to have my old 1100 head rebuilt. She was leaking pretty bad towards the end.
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What's going on in your garage? Part II
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lecroy
Ran into a bit of a snag with the new transmission but was finally was able to get the clutch basket torqued and put the pistons in. I also installed the custom APE pins. These should handle anything I can throw at them. They made me two sets, so if they work out I plan to upgrade my other engine to them as well.
The bell is only on there so I can roll it over by hand. I gave up on eBay and plan to have my old 1100 head rebuilt. She was leaking pretty bad towards the end.
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Looking good Mark
I'm still waiting on a few more parts. The good news is the track open's this Friday night for points. Looks like I'll be riding the Sporty, she may be slow but she's deadly if you know what I mean :mrgreen:1166cc 1/8 ET 6.09@111.88
1166cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.70@122.85
1395cc 1/8 ET 6.0051@114.39
1395cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.71@113.98 "With a broken wrist pin too"
01 Sporty 1/8 ET 7.70@92.28, 1/4 ET 12.03@111.82
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Very pretty!!
I don't know about you guys....but I can't wait to get goin'...\\/
Bob T.Bob T. ~~ Play the GSR weekly photo game: Pic of Week Game
'83 GS1100E ~ '24 Triumph Speed 400 ~ '01 TRIUMPH TT600 ~ '67 HONDA CUB
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lecroy
Did some work on the street bike. Got the unbreakable cam chain guide swapped, mounted the bell, starter, clutch, tensioner and the pistons. One of the cylinder studs was wrong so had to use the other for fitting. Hope to have everything done next month so we can put it in the bike.
Too bad she's not a bone stock 1150 engine. The bike it is going into has 2000 original miles and looks new.
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rosco15
I can't wait to get this started. I just need to change the studs in my slider to the 8mm. They are on order. And I'm waiting for my fairing to come back. I got the painter that works on our fleet cars to do it at cost. Heres a couple pics. homemade ring compressors, fairing bracket I made, pmfr 48t sprocket, and the assembled engine.
Last edited by Guest; 03-01-2007, 05:36 PM.
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rosco15
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lecroy
Trying to keep up with the Jone's. Looking at your front nose there appears to be five switches on your bike. So a little hunting....
It looks like 5 switches, 5 lights, air pressure and tether. Then the black box....
What on earth do all of those switches and lights do??????
My bike is just about as bad with 6 switches and the boost gauge. This gave me the insperatation to rewire my entire bike. I cut out about half the wire out of it.
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rosco15
Red light far left is a fifth gear light.
Then the tether/kill cord.
Green light on the left only comes on when the bike is in first gear, Schnitz box is active, and the 2 step button is pressed. Kind of a ready to launch light.
Green light to the right is main power
Blue light on the far right is neutral.
First switch to the left is used to activate the schnitz box. Most people use a switched throttle for this.
Next switch in is for an onboard 12v air pump. Backup onboard air system
Just to the right of the shift light and air pressure guage is the starter button.
To the right of the starter button is the main power switch.
The round plug above the shift light is an amplifier style jack I use to plug my battery charger in.
To the bottom right is a remote 2-step selector thats not pictured.
Gonna have to stop at the paint shop and see how my fairing is coming along. I would love to see the finished product.
Last edited by Guest; 03-06-2007, 09:59 PM.
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lecroy
You don't need an ignition key, because no robber is going to figure it out!! Now you have to add one more switch.
I often thought I should make a website dedicated to drag bike dash boards.
The last time I was at an all bike meet in Norwalk they had a bike show at night and I took the time to look at every one of them. I was amazed at how many different ideas people have for their launch buttons alone.
What do you mean when you wrote about "activate the schnitz box". I don't understand why or how you would use the throttle switch to turn it on. Isn't this the ignition?
Do you button shift?
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rosco15
The schnitz box requires a 12v activation signal for sequential shifting, auto shifting, and to activate the nitrous timers. Since I shift at a different rpm for each gear so I need to activate this 12v input. I could use it to auto shift, but do to a bumpy track, never have. I just hit the button. Most guys use the switched throttle so the nitrous and auto shifting only works when your at full throttle. I don't have a switched throttle so I just use the toggle to do it. there is a built in timer that only allows the box to be activated for a certain amount of time. Kind of a safety feature. The timer can be disabled for people like myself.
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lecroy
I downloaded the manual for it. It does appear the are trying to make it more safe. Do the guys that run them put a switch in line with the auto (if they use it) for doing burnouts, or just not open them up?
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lecroy
Man, was it warm out today. Finished the new wire job and mounted the new controller. Its an in your face (really) box. I went to test everything and the first thing I noticed was no fuel. Impossible. When I put the new connectors on, I swapped the +/- leads to the pump and it was running backwards. So, thats red to red and black to black I guess.. LOL. Rechecked everything again and then she fired right up.
I had sent my old crank off to see if it could be salvaged after the year before last's melt down. I guess the press fits were good. When I put Ryan's rowdy red cases in, this crank, the second set of APE pins and the new matching basket go in the current engine. The old Falicon crank and basket thats in my race bike will go into my street bike (which is starting to puff, like the magic dragon) and should give it an endless life.....
Pearson had a little more work to do this time. The crank was built by Pouge Machine and had a full weld job. The rods were shot from my little SNAFU. I think the Wiseco pins flexed a bit. So she got a new set of 493 Katana rods, new bearings and a new gear from MTC. The MTC gears BTW are much less than the Falicon ones now.
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Garage Projects
Mine are two:
1985 GS700ES: rebuild engine with snapped cam chain. Install White Bros. shock from 1986 GSXR750 to replace toasted stock unit.
1978 GS550E: Remove carbs and install o-ring kit to repair leaking between the carbs.
Got lotsa time, very little money......Mad Doctor
'78 GS550E - Need O-Rings for carbs
'85 GS700ES - In Process of Rebuild
'99 GSF1200S - Running --YEAH!!
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rosco15
I upgraded the studs on the slider this week. The weather hit 60 today so I fired it up. Sounds real good. I changed the plugs and oil. Now I just need to get the fairing on.
I did have a slight clearance issue between the cover and the bolts I installed in the hat. They rubbed on the face of the support in the cover. I think it's due to the 6 thou clearance the basket has. Allowing it to move out toward the cover. I had to machine the face of the support down a bit. It does bang pretty hard when you put the bike into gear.
Last edited by Guest; 03-14-2007, 09:31 PM.
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