Project Beast GS1000 Your input, please

[RobGS850L]

Yeah duration is rpm (which creates horsepower) where lift creates power and torque. Good grind for us street guys. Don't need to lean on an engine that's driven regularly. Creating horsepower at higher rpm's isn't exactly what a guy needs on a bike in traffic and playing with the throttle and clutch and brake. I figure just look at your common rpm range that you will spend the most time in and the cam that creates the power in that range that's the one to get.

[Dan Ruddock]

One thing you have to realize about cam lobe design there is no free lunch and what ever you do will have an up and down side. To get more lift out of a cam with like durations you must do one or both of two things to get the lift which are increase the rate of lift or add the lift by making the nose of the cam sharper which can create wear problems. The increase in lift rate will require stronger springs which will also adds more wear. Well have I scared you away from a cam like this well I hope not. The Oem's design in large safety margins and when done by adding at little duration, nose lift and lift rate increase all three add up to a nice lift gain with maybe a slight loss of cam life (use a oil with plenty of zddp). Dan

[RobGS850L]

The wear probably isn't too bad compared to say the 1100-1150 type heads. I mean the shim bucket types at least they are pretty much submerged in oil. I would think the shim bucket heads would be able to handle a faster ramp what with all that area for the lobe to ride on. Kinda' like the difference between a Chevy lifter and say a Mushroom lifter. Lots more surface for the lobe. I agree totally, you really do have a give and take with high performance cams. But if you want to run with the big dogs, well...........
Actually if it were me I'd be really tempted to go a bit crazy with the new project and do a barely or not at all streetable bike. I mean what the hey Bruce has a couple of other bikes. But I don't think you ever really get hurt being a bit conservative. You don't want it to be a pain to ride.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

I'll add some thoughts to this thread. Keep in mind that I don't ride around as hard as many of you may and what the heck...we're all different.
I like power like the rest of you but on an old GS1000, I'd rather have power that's more usable and power that doesn't significantly effect engine life or good manners. If I really want more power, I'd rather get a newer bike. It's fun to tinker with your bike, I've done that, but I really like riding it more and have come up with what I think is the best over-all mod's for the 1000. In my mind, the perfect compromise, though the emphasis is on durability.
I have a 1085 kit...
very light smoothing of the intake ports...
cams degreed at 106...
K&N ovals...
V&H megaphone...
DJ kit for the stock carbs...
Dyna S ignition and coils...
crank welded/balanced/polished...
clutch basket welded/heavier damper springs...
Electrex RR to keep the charging system/spark happy.
I did the above to gain some noticable power but not so much it taxes the remaining stock parts. I wanted the parts to compliment each other. The cams settings make the bike a torquer and my powerband seems to be everywhere above 2,500 rpm's. I can really use this power without trying to go 120 plus. The bike is just more fun.
The bike is a LOT quicker than stock. I think the top end went up just a few mph but that's the cams. The welded crank was done because these bikes can twist the crank. The clutch basket was welded to get rid of the common rattle and to better handle the ocassional trophy dash. I believe I'll have no problem going another 100,000 plus on this engine. I don't ride hard constantly, just a blast here and there. I hate tickets. They ruin my weekend. I hate crashing more. 130 tops is fine for me and even that can smear you if you do it too much.
The one thing I would like to have is the 29 smoothies. In my opinion, the best carbs ever made for this bike. They would truly bring the final compliment to these mod's. I may still try to find a nice unmolested set someday but for now I'm just enjoying the bike.
I suppose a mild cam would compliment things even more :roll: but I doubt I'll ever bother.
Bruce, you'll have a nice bike if you remember to make the parts compliment each other. You will have to give a little if the emphasis is on power over reliability. You know me, I plan to keep the bike forever and running well so I tend to go with the above mod's.
Any help I can give on your project, I'll try.
I've done very little to the rest of the bike as far as handling. Just Progressive fork springs and shocks. Drilled the rotors and SS lines.

[txironhead]

Is there an article, thread or link on how to drill the rotors? I've wanted to do that to several of the bikes I've owned, but I'm not about to mess with a working brake system unless I have as much information as possible.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Is there an article, thread or link on how to drill the rotors? I've wanted to do that to several of the bikes I've owned, but I'm not about to mess with a working brake system unless I have as much information as possible.

I had a local shop do mine during my restoration. Expensive. 7 years ago $60/ea.
They did a great job though. I had seen an article in Motorcyclist magazine about drilling. It seemed very thorough if you have the tools. I don't know which issue but sometime in early '80's (82 to 84?). I didn't want to try it myself. I didn't have a press anyway.
I asked this shop some questions and they were very similar to the magazine as to how to do the job. They use only cobalt bits for our older rotors. You have to be careful of warping by using too dull a bit or building heat. The holes aren't supposed to be chamfered either as that defeats the "self cleaning" action the sharp edged holes have. A sharp bit won't allow burrs anyway.
You can try later model "slotted" rotors but they don't have the aggressive look of the drilled rotors.
I like mine on my '79 1000E just because of the look. They do shed water better but I never ride in the rain unless I get caught. The holes also help stop squealing but glazing can still happen and the squeal will return somewhat. The holes eliminate galling (because of the self cleaning) , which my rear rotor suffered from. I bought a new rotor back then and after 30,000 miles, no galling. You should still inspect once in awhile in case a piece of metal does get caught and start galling.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Here's my rotors.

[txironhead]

Now THERE'S a man who takes pride in his bike. You won't find a cleaner setup even on the new bikes. Very nice polished finish.

I personally prefer the look of the "directional" drilled rotors, but I've always wondered if there was any significant advantage to them versus the type of drilling you had done or if it was more a cosmetic thing.

Hmmm.....$60@, three rotors, $180=more than I can afford to spend. I do, however, have a drill press and easy access to cobalt bits (my brother and nephew are both aircraft mechanics and use them all the time). Anyone got a copy of that article?

[KEITH KRAUSE]

I personally prefer the look of the "directional" drilled rotors, but I've always wondered if there was any significant advantage to them versus the type of drilling you had done or if it was more a cosmetic thing.

I always looked at the pattern I have as directional, like a pin wheel, though you could say it would be a pin wheel in either direction. The shop called it a "3-2" pattern, though it looks like an arch of 5 holes to me.
The idea is to have the holes completely sweep the pad.

[drhermanstein]

I always looked at the pattern I have as directional, like a pin wheel, though you could say it would be a pin wheel in either direction. The shop called it a "3-2" pattern, though it looks like an arch of 5 holes to me.
The idea is to have the holes completely sweep the pad.

I saw the five holes in an arc immediately but the 3-2 eluded me for a while. It's like one of those focus-real-hard illusion cartoon pictures and something 3-d shows up

[jskellington]

Love this thread.

I've noticed in the GS1000 parts search on Ebay there's an outfit somewhere that polishes and drills rotors. You send them the rotor, they do the work. The pictures of their work look nice. Anyone used these guys yet?

Point number two. I'm still mesmerized by pages 74 and 75 of the July 2206 issue of Motorcyclist, the Wes Cooley GS1000 superbike. I can see a least one gusset welded to the frame at the upper shock mount. Does anyone know any sources that could be useful for an amateur looking to brace his ancient steel motorcycle frame? I'm thinking of taking a welding course at a nearby community college, and this seems like a good project.

[RobGS850L]

I guess a cheap(?) way to have drilled rotors may be to use the later model ones. My brother in law has a 78 and a 79 GS1000 and my wheels fit his and vice versa. If they interchange on other models maybe a quick fit. Actually I've only tried the front .

[txironhead]

Could you post a pic of your front rotors? I'd like to see if they're similar to mine. Which GS's came factory with drilled rotors, or am I looking at GSX or GSXR?

[renobruce]

Thanks for the input! Some questions for you more experienced people:

I will definately go with aftermarket cams. How does that work? Do I give them my cams to rework, or do I just order the cams? The grind Dan proposes sounds about right to me. I want good midrange to top end power. I don't plan on going 150 mph (too often), but I do want to be able to get to top speed fast. I won't be doing much stop and go traffic riding. Mostly highway and mountain roads, and an occasional all out blast down by the hay fields (I have a nice 2 mile stretch of country road just down the street from me where you can go all out!)

Undercutting the trans. How do you do that? How/where would I buy the gears?

And the crank. Keith had his welded/balanced/polished. Is that all done when it is welded? Is it still $90.00, or is it more? How hard is it to get the crank out?

I suppose if I'm going to do the crank, I might want to consider the tranny work, too.

And the carbs. I am going to try and obtain some VM29's. Keith knows his carbs, and if he says that they are the best set-up for what I want to do to the engine, then I trust that. Plus they are "period correct", and will fit right on without any mods. Who has a nice set that they want to sell me?

I have two complete 1000 engines. One has 58K on it, the other about 38K. Do I automatically go with the engine with less miles on it? Is there anything I should look for on the two engines that would determine which one to build?

Thanks for the help, you guys!

[80GS1000]

Could you post a pic of your front rotors? I'd like to see if they're similar to mine. Which GS's came factory with drilled rotors, or am I looking at GSX or GSXR?

My '80 GS1000E has drilled rotors stock.