Project Beast GS1000 Your input, please

[80GS1000]

Thanks for the input!

Undercutting the trans. How do you do that? How/where would I buy the gears?

You don't have to buy the gears. You send in your tranny and they machine it for you: http://gszone.biz/trans.html

And the crank. Keith had his welded/balanced/polished. Is that all done when it is welded? Is it still $90.00, or is it more? How hard is it to get the crank out?

Price list, and other crankshaft mods here: http://www.aperaceparts.com/crankwork.html

I personally would farm out the removal of the crankshaft and tranny gears to an experienced mechanic due to the potential of FUBARing something important like the crankcase, but I'm not as mechanically advanced as others here. After you have the parts removed, you can ship them out for machine work and have your mechanic reinstall them. More info on the removal process here: http://www.dansmc.com/split_crankcase.htm

And the carbs. I am going to try and obtain some VM29's. Keith knows his carbs, and if he says that they are the best set-up for what I want to do to the engine, then I trust that. Plus they are "period correct", and will fit right on without any mods. Who has a nice set that they want to sell me?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/29MM-...QQcmdZViewItem

Hope this helps. Keep us updated on your progress.

[renobruce]

Those 29's in that ebay listing don't look right. Anybody?

[Dan Ruddock]

On the cams you send your cores to web and they hard weld the lobes for more lift and they maintain a stock base circle. Lift is your friend and the GS two valve engine needs more of it with only about .318". More lift will put the 38mm intake valve closer to it's sweet spot. A 38mm valve GS head will keep gaining CFM when the lift is above the stock lift number. Pro stock engines run over .500" lift. Dan

[80GS1000]

Those 29's in that ebay listing don't look right. Anybody?

What doesn't look right about them? Another set here: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mikun...QQcmdZViewItem

[renobruce]

What doesn't look right about them? Another set here: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mikun...QQcmdZViewItem

Maybe it's just the angle of the pics... they are definitely corroded and dirty.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

The second set of carbs posted look cleaner. Anyones guess about the inside. Ask questions is all I can say.
It's just not easy to find good smoothbores. Not all the parts are available if you need them. The preferred slide cut-away changes with the level of mods I'm told. Things like the paper gasket for the slide are often over-looked. Because these carbs are typically used on modded bikes, a high percentage of them have also had butchers working on them and swapping things around. I'm not saying you can't find a decent set, but you have to inspect them or ask questions and hope any worn parts can be replaced.
As for the crank and costs, I told V&H I wanted the crank welded and I wanted the bearings replaced if there was any doubt I wouldn't get another 100,000 miles out of them. V&H sent mine out to a shop on the east coast. I didn't get their name. Falicon, 7 years ago, wanted $1,400. The east coast shop that the local V&H recommended wanted $750. It came back with all new bearings, welded, balanced and when the V&H owner showed it to me, sure enough, the whole thing had been polished.
I also had the clutch basket welded and heavier damper springs installed. The 1000 clutch basket is subject to rattle and I think welding the basket is necessary, especially on a modded engine. V&H sent mine out to a local shop and the cost was $250.
As for your question about which engine to use, it wouldn't necessarily matter if one has 38K and the other 58K. It depends on what kind of miles it was and if the bike was tuned correctly, oil changed, etc. Compression tests on each may answer the question. Lot of parts to inspect if you take them apart.

[RobGS850L]

If the bearings are roller bearings wouldn't they be press fit? If they are press fit why would the bearing surfaces need to be polished? I can understand getting a smoth and clean surface for the bearings to fit but if the bearings are on already how would one know if they are polished? Besides I thought micropolishing was for the shell type bearings.
Sorry for the huge Q and A but my curiosity is killing me.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

I never said the bearing surfaces were polished. Maybe I shouldn't have said "the whole thing was polished".
What I meant was, when he took me over to the crank, the rods were literally externally polished. I had very little experience with crank welding, balancing, etc, so I just said "man, it looks good". I had no idea it would come back actually polished. But remembering what V&H had said when it went out, "this guy will rebuild, weld, true/balance and polish the crank". I've never bothered to look it up to see what benefit/reason there is, other than to make it look nice.....like someone is really proud of their work.

[RobGS850L]

Actually polishing the rods from a performance standpoint isn't much but for longevity it can have gains. If done properly it will help (if I remember this right) the grain of the rod to go lengthwise so if it wants to break it will want to break lengthwise. Much harder to do. Also removing any slag is a plus. Cracks tend to develop in those areas. Sorry, not trying to be a smart@$$. I haven't taken a gs crank apart so I was a bit lost.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Actually polishing the rods from a performance standpoint isn't much but for longevity it can have gains. If done properly it will help (if I remember this right) the grain of the rod to go lengthwise so if it wants to break it will want to break lengthwise. Much harder to do. Also removing any slag is a plus. Cracks tend to develop in those areas. Sorry, not trying to be a smart@$$. I haven't taken a gs crank apart so I was a bit lost.

I never took anything you said as trying to be a smart...
It just made me explain better what was done to my crank.

[RobGS850L]

Thanks for not taking me wrong it's just my wife tells me I tend to not have enough tact at times. :shock: I find that hard to believe.

[renobruce]

Well, I bit the bullet......

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=011&sspagename=STRK%3AMEBI%3AIT&viewitem=&item=320054175296&rd=1,1

The seller claims and they look to be in very good condition. \\/

[renobruce]

Keith,
There is another set on ebay that look to be in great shape as well. Let me know if you are interested in them. If not, I may bid on them, too.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=009&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=190053640346&rd=1,1

[renobruce]

Someone please buy some oil pressure gauges from me so I can afford all this stuff!!

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Keith,
There is another set on ebay that look to be in great shape as well. Let me know if you are interested in them. If not, I may bid on them, too.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...3640346&rd=1,1

Thanks for thinking about me. No, I'm happy with the bike the way she is.
I may be sorry someday that I don't pick up some of these. I plan to build a couple bikes when I retire (7 or 8 years) and these are getting rarer and rarer.