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Eventually got correct seals and the bike back on the wheels again.
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Got the engine back in to the frame. And installed some other bits too. Doesn't look so desperate anymore
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Speedo/tacho assembly mock up. There is still plenty of space for the boost gauge and other bells and whistles.
New gear display under development.
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Awesome project!Comment
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I have been way too busy last few weeks so the bike isn't progressed much. But something little anyway.
The original chain guard needed minor chopping to fit.
New coil pack in it's place. It was quite tricky to get it in there.
New mounting plate for the regulator, fuses and relays.
Installed the wastegate just to get some visible progress.
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Making some good progress. Looks like a bike again.
I like your oil pan. Ran into a problem with mine and would love to have chopped up a pan like this, but the bike sits too low so I could only gain the height of the fins at best. It looks like the drain feeds into the sump, but I don't see how you drain the oil now. I ended up trying a Ward pickup with a stock pan and it is working good so far.
Why were you porting out the turbine inlet?
In the picture it does not look like the gears are slotted.
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Thanks for your comments.
Do you mean how I will drain the oil for changing it? I'm going to drain it by removing the drain hose from the turbo.
The turbo is slightly too small for the engine so I'm trying to improve it a bit. Especially the turbine inlet was quite restrictive. Most likely this porting will delay spool up slightly but this shouldn't be a problem since I can compensate it by adjusting the VNT mechanism.
The cam sprockets are slotted by my self. They are slotted only just enough to make required adjustments. So the slots are barely visible under the bolts.Comment
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I thought in the picture that the bottom of the sump was not yet in place and maybe the drain would be there.
I thought the turbo looked small. I tore a little RaJay B up pretty bad when I over sped it. Just way to small for making any boost.
Looks good. I would be interested in seeing some videos of it running once you get it all sorted out. Keep up the good work and keep us posted.Comment
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Where/what did you get
speedo/ tach from?Comment
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Yep, the turbo is a bit too small but not badly. It keeps boost up to the top end and exhaust back pressure stays on reasonable level. But I think that porting will reduce back pressure and improve top end.
The speedo/tacho assembly is Koso RX1N. It's quite handy device. It has almost all functions what you may want like two temperature gauges, fuel gauge, shift light, warning lights and so on. Only missing thing is a gear display. It came from some German web shop, it was kind of group buy with few mates. The price was about $250.Comment
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It was pretty close to 1:1, roughly. I did just few short test runs to measure the back pressure and the readings weren't very clear at top end. For some reason it wasn't so easy to stare at the gauge beyond 6000 rpm throttle wide open
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That was pretty good. Why even port it? I figured it was going to be 2:1 - 3:1.Comment
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Why to port? Why not? I'm going to try out all kind things with this engine just to collect some experience about turbo engines. Then I can build another engine for some real power and do it right at once (dream on...).
I have read and heard all kind rules for the pressure ratio. Some say 2:1, most common seems to be 1:1 and some say even 0.5:1. So I guess that 1:1 is already pretty good but there is still room for improvement.Comment
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For a street bike I would think you would want to be very close to 1:1. On a drag bike the ratio closer to 1.5:1 - 2:1 Ex,In. But these bikes are not rode around town. They run wide open all the time. Seems like your near perfect.Comment
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