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Ever had your bike dyno'ed?
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80GS1000
Ever had your bike dyno'ed?
Have you ever taken your bike in to a dyno to see how much HP and torque it's making at various RPM levels? What were your results?Tags: None
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JHawkins
I had mine on a dyno a year ago september. the old 750 ran about 54 hp and 37 on the torque side.
I know the bike is running better and harder now, so it would be interesting to get her on again. (Can bring the front wheel of the ground shifting into second now, it would not even come close then). I figure it might be up to around the 60 mark if it was having a good day.
The hardest part was watching someone else thrash the crap out of the old gal up on the dyno. I thought I was gonna cry. They really give them a good workout!
What was cool is everyone was laughing when they put her on. They had been running sportbikes and tricked out harleys all day. They all laughed when I said she would likely be in the 50's, they said I would be really lucky if it did 40 - SURPRISE! Should have put some money on the old gal!
They guy running her on the dyno complimented me on how well she ran, surprised him too.
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lecroy
I never have with any bike. We talked about makeing an engine stand for the GS motor on the dyno I am helping out with, but it is very limited to the amount of power and RPM it can take. It would be good for breaking the new engines in, but thats about all.
I normally log data from my big bike and calculate the SAE-J1349 corrected torque and HP from that. I really only use these numbers to see how changes I make effect the bike and where I should be shifting at. Anymore I set the jetting based on the heat line alone.
The track seems to be a pretty good indicator of whats going on.
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U.P.dragracer
I dyno'ed the 600 bandit last winter and it made 82 HP @ 13,000 rpm and had a nice flat TQ curve with 38 ft lbs @ 9000 rpm .
I hope to dyno the GS 1100 this winter as well :-D
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Addy Leung
i have dyno my 1981 GS1100 16V 3 mothes ago, it mod with 37mm CR keihin and dyna green coils and 4-2-1 custom made pipe.
max 97 HP at 9000rpm(red line), 4th gear at rear wheel and torque is somthing about 11??
May be try again as now installed the Dyna S., sure it should be better now
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Commodus
Nope, I haven't, but I'm going to dyno my old GT550 to see what difference my mods have made.
I've cleaned up the ports, fitted different pistons to go to 600ccs (and much higher compression), installed electronic ignition and a set of expansion chambers.
I can't wait! Good running 550s made about 37hp back in the day, I'm hoping to get into the mid 40s!
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Kaptain Ketchup
158hp @ 10psi last time we checked this summer.
Winter is here and it's time for fuel injection.... Going to try to bring it past 200hp and settle in to the 15 psi range.
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Forum LongTimerCharter Member
GSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter- May 2002
- 17921
- The only Henniker on earth
Originally posted by Kaptain Ketchup View PostWinter is here and it's time for fuel injection.... Going to try to bring it past 200hp and settle in to the 15 psi range.Currently bikeless
'81 GS 1100EX - "Peace, by superior fire power."
'06 FZ1000 - "What we are dealing with here, is a COMPLETE lack of respect for the law."
I ride, therefore I am.... constantly buying new tires.
"Tell me what kind of an accident you are going to have, and I will tell you which helmet to wear." - Harry Hurt
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Kaptain Ketchup
Jethro,
Yeah the bike is a handfull of mean when it gets the power to the ground.
Lecroy,
Not entirely staying with the draw through... I am using a 2.0 VW throttle body mounted where the carb was and using port injection on the backside of the atp manifold (4 injectors). This way I don't need a blow off valve as I would if I were blowing pressure at the throttle body. I want to use as much of the current system I have. Not having the fuel travel in the air all the way throught the turbo and the manifold will be a plus as well. I aslo have a F compressor wheel and housing on the way.
My plans:
2.0 VW throttle body (has tps and a vacuum side port I can use for fast idle)
24-30 lbs injectors.
Rajay F parts on the compressor side, effectively a FB25 turbo.
Megasquirt I v3.0 (dont need the II as my dyna2000 runs the ignition)
I've had a few problems with my HSR42 going lean under full boost and I can't keep the cruising condition from going rich if I tune for WOT. Currently a 22.5 pilot, 95 needle highly modified (turned the dia. down from 95 to about 88 and have blended most of the taper in for hard acceleration) and a 230 main.
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lecroy
Originally posted by Kaptain Ketchup View PostJethro,
I aslo have a F compressor wheel and housing on the way.
I've had a few problems with my HSR42 going lean under full boost and I can't keep the cruising condition from going rich if I tune for WOT. Currently a 22.5 pilot, 95 needle highly modified (turned the dia. down from 95 to about 88 and have blended most of the taper in for hard acceleration) and a 230 main.
Man, I hear you on the HSR. I lost an engine last summer to that carb and my own ignorance. I hear people who have had great luck with them, but I am not one. My bike runs real good at idle, mid and high, until I start pulling a little pressure. Then it goes lean. I cut a .123" dia. main and it still will lean out. I suspect the needle and seat are too small and need to go up one size. The bowl is just so small on this carb, I think I run it dry. I even use a boost compensated regulator to increase the fuel pressure under boost. Every thing helped, but it's not good enough.
I have heard of people just letting the fuel pour out of the overflow into a catch can. One person told me that they got very close to 300HP with one doing this. Terry also told me that they had built some 300HP GSs with this carb, so I have not given up yet.
I took a different route and added a NOS single jet to the manifold that I operate off a pressure switch. Once the boost comes up, I start spraying the crap out of it. If this won't cool it down, nothing will.
The center NOS solenoid was added for the extra fuel jet.
Welded a bung to the custom adapter.
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Kaptain Ketchup
The B turbine and .25 housing should be the easiest to run on the street. I can see using an EE or EF on the track but they are just too edgey for the street. I want to see pressure on the gauge at 5400rpm +/- 500rpm. I have heard that all the E and F parts on the exhaust side needs pretty high revs before you get see boost. The .25 will be a smooth pressure build up for the street and the E compressor side parts will up the pressure a bit, from 12 to 18-20ish. I am going to have to keep a close eye on exhaust side back pressure levels and keep my wastegate working properly. I too had heard great things about the hsr for the street but I just can't keep it from going lean under hard accelelration without hurting the cruising speed mixture. I must have 5 hand sanded (chucked in a drill and using light sand paper) needles here and they would all work on all out drag bike (I think) but just can't get the cruise setting set right.
Yeah my bike is still an 1100. I just can't wait for the fuel injection... Any lean problem is corrected by just chaning the map numbers... I think it will really make my bike streetable.
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