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Installing a 90's Katana head on a GS1100

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    #16
    I decided not to weld on the head instead I ordered a new Katana front cam guide. All I have to do is grind down the bottom to fit.

    So far 35 bucks for the guide and 2 bucks for the plugs. All that's left is some high temp RTV gasket maker and I'll plug up the oil holes in the valve cover and the 4 drain holes in the block.

    Now I just need to get the cases back together!!
    1166cc 1/8 ET 6.09@111.88
    1166cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.70@122.85
    1395cc 1/8 ET 6.0051@114.39
    1395cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.71@113.98 "With a broken wrist pin too"
    01 Sporty 1/8 ET 7.70@92.28, 1/4 ET 12.03@111.82

    Comment


      #17
      Originally posted by rapidray View Post
      Jake, if you want I will send you pictures of my bike. It runs 9.20s @ 142 & push button starts. I run NHRA Division 7 & have been doing this conversion since 1988. Also, there are only TWO oil holes in the block that have to be plugged. And if you use the 88/89 cams they are .350 lift intake & .330 exhaust. Those are the cams in my motor with 40MM Mikunis. If you run juice make SURE you back the timing back to 28 degrees MAX! Ray.
      Hey Ray I see what you mean. On my MTC block the studs are not exposed and will not leak, but on the oem block where you can see the studs....the center two on the exhaust side will. I'm thinking of a quick fix like when the block is installed I'll just use about 3 O-rings on each stud and press them in flush with the block. This should seal the stud to the block and prevent any leakage.
      Last edited by RacingJake; 02-14-2007, 08:22 PM.
      1166cc 1/8 ET 6.09@111.88
      1166cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.70@122.85
      1395cc 1/8 ET 6.0051@114.39
      1395cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.71@113.98 "With a broken wrist pin too"
      01 Sporty 1/8 ET 7.70@92.28, 1/4 ET 12.03@111.82

      Comment


        #18
        Originally posted by RacingJake View Post
        Those are the time's I'm hoping to get without using wheelie bars so I gave myself a 1/2 second loss for a baseline.

        It may run quicker cause a few years ago when it was a 1166 with the 1100 head 6.80 was the best I could do.
        Just hate to see you throw in the towel when you were so close. Sounds like thats not your plan.

        Comment


          #19
          Don't forget about the nitrous, that should make up the differance on the topend.

          Who knows maybe she'll get in the 5's after all
          1166cc 1/8 ET 6.09@111.88
          1166cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.70@122.85
          1395cc 1/8 ET 6.0051@114.39
          1395cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.71@113.98 "With a broken wrist pin too"
          01 Sporty 1/8 ET 7.70@92.28, 1/4 ET 12.03@111.82

          Comment


            #20
            Took about an hour of playtime with a hand file to remove the lip around the exhaust flanges then it went right in. Still waiting for the oem front cam guide to show up then I grind it down to fit. No welding the head this way.

            1166cc 1/8 ET 6.09@111.88
            1166cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.70@122.85
            1395cc 1/8 ET 6.0051@114.39
            1395cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.71@113.98 "With a broken wrist pin too"
            01 Sporty 1/8 ET 7.70@92.28, 1/4 ET 12.03@111.82

            Comment


              #21
              The gsxr 1100 cam guide show'ed up today. It's longer than my 750 one and about 1/4 inch shorter than the GS one. Did a test fit and it looks like it's going to work. That was the 2nd show stopper fixed, like should I weld the head for the GS one or try the GSXR one.

              Still got to finish up the clean up work I'm doing in the ports then I'll put the valves back in and it's ready to go on.

              The final thing left is the 13.5-1 piston fix and clearance check and/or alittle more grinding if required. I should be ready to clay the tops of the pistons by next week.

              It's getting closer to see if this head can make the claim 20 hp more than a 1150 head???
              1166cc 1/8 ET 6.09@111.88
              1166cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.70@122.85
              1395cc 1/8 ET 6.0051@114.39
              1395cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.71@113.98 "With a broken wrist pin too"
              01 Sporty 1/8 ET 7.70@92.28, 1/4 ET 12.03@111.82

              Comment


                #22
                Originally posted by RacingJake View Post
                It's getting closer to see if this head can make the claim 20 hp more than a 1150 head???
                Do you have any way to measure the difference in power? You changed so much this winter hard to say how much is due to head.

                Oh yea, I still have a home for that old slow clunker head thats now collecting dust, LOL.

                Comment


                  #23
                  I'll just be running it down the track and will see.

                  And as for collecting dust no worry she's in the bag I think Ryan used his as a door stopper a few years ago
                  1166cc 1/8 ET 6.09@111.88
                  1166cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.70@122.85
                  1395cc 1/8 ET 6.0051@114.39
                  1395cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.71@113.98 "With a broken wrist pin too"
                  01 Sporty 1/8 ET 7.70@92.28, 1/4 ET 12.03@111.82

                  Comment


                    #24
                    I clayed the pistons with the head on and got about 30 thou clearance, waiting for some feedback from the guys on dragbike. I'm thinking I need 50 to 75 thou just to be safe.

                    I'm not talking about V/P clearance, it's the head/piston clearance I'm worried about???
                    1166cc 1/8 ET 6.09@111.88
                    1166cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.70@122.85
                    1395cc 1/8 ET 6.0051@114.39
                    1395cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.71@113.98 "With a broken wrist pin too"
                    01 Sporty 1/8 ET 7.70@92.28, 1/4 ET 12.03@111.82

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Today I work on the piston's some more and I think they are done. Also drilled some some holes into the manifolds and screwed the nos fogger's in. I like the rubber manifolds no tapping required.

                      I'll clay the pistons again tomorrow.....got my fingers crossed.
                      1166cc 1/8 ET 6.09@111.88
                      1166cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.70@122.85
                      1395cc 1/8 ET 6.0051@114.39
                      1395cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.71@113.98 "With a broken wrist pin too"
                      01 Sporty 1/8 ET 7.70@92.28, 1/4 ET 12.03@111.82

                      Comment


                        #26
                        How are you reshaping them?

                        A friend of mine has some of Paul Gast's old prostock parts and they reshaped the piston to get it to fit up in there pretty tight. If you want I can see if he has any numbers.

                        My old girl has a lot of slop. Nothing can hit the turbo pistons and I would dare to guess that yours makes a lot more power than mine off the line.

                        Comment


                          #27
                          The only places they were hitting where on the side after alittle work with a file and some sandpaper I have about 50 thous clearance after I clayed the pistons and cranked it over.



                          Last edited by RacingJake; 03-04-2007, 09:40 PM.
                          1166cc 1/8 ET 6.09@111.88
                          1166cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.70@122.85
                          1395cc 1/8 ET 6.0051@114.39
                          1395cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.71@113.98 "With a broken wrist pin too"
                          01 Sporty 1/8 ET 7.70@92.28, 1/4 ET 12.03@111.82

                          Comment


                            #28
                            Jake, have you fired that thing up yet? Let me know, Ray.

                            Comment


                              #29
                              Not yet, I'm still waiting on a 1166 base gasket to show up cause my 1395 gasket was just alittle too big. I'm not using a topend oiler so I need alittle gasket material around the block oil passage between the studs. Other than that I think I got everything cover.

                              Maybe by next week it should be back in the frame \\/
                              1166cc 1/8 ET 6.09@111.88
                              1166cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.70@122.85
                              1395cc 1/8 ET 6.0051@114.39
                              1395cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.71@113.98 "With a broken wrist pin too"
                              01 Sporty 1/8 ET 7.70@92.28, 1/4 ET 12.03@111.82

                              Comment


                                #30
                                Jake, I cannot stress this ENOUGH - GET a topend oiler! I promise, you will have cam & rocker issues if you don't! TRUST me,I had another guy I built one for learn this the hard way. I am NOT kidding, Jake, GET a topend oiler! If you need one I have a brand new one from Ward on my shelf right now. Ray.

                                Comment

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