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Best Anti-vibration bar ends?

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    #16
    I have ordered the manic salamander bar ends. I'll report back. If they are no good I'll send them back for a loss of 10 bucks...

    Dan
    1980 GS1000G - Sold
    1978 GS1000E - Finished!
    1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
    1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
    2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
    1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
    2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!

    www.parasiticsanalytics.com

    TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

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      #17
      Originally posted by katman View Post
      Good link Tom,

      So its not weight that affects vibration. You have to change or disiapte the harmonic resonance.
      We need to go on a hunt for non resonating material to fill up the bars with.....Ok all you science geeks. Lets here from ya'll. whats the best stuff?

      Has anyone tried filling the bars with calking?
      Some "old skool" riders also will pump maximum expansion window insulation caulk foam up inside the bars also, supposidly works very effective also.

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        #18
        I have used this stuff on my Concours. Night and day difference!!
        If you know about the Concours BUZZZZZZZZZZZ,,,,, This stuff tamed the buzz.

        The Worlds Finest Handlebar Vibration Control System. Carter Powel Barsnake Inventor.

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          #19
          I see adding weight changes the mass thereby changing the harmonic properties. I knew I should have stayed in school.
          I am going to fill my bars with calking and use the stock kat barends instead of the pretty alum gsxr ones I have. the kat ends are 5 times heavier than the anodized gsxr ends.
          KATANA CUSTOMS/TECH

          Instagram: @rjmedia.tech, Updated more often, even from the events

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            #20
            I tried the Sil-a-cone caulking ....don't waste your time...try lead shot. I did both before I got bar snake.....The lead shot worked better then the caulking....Just my 2cents worth

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              #21
              I have seen the "Bar Snake" and have heard good things, but have yet to try it:

              The Worlds Finest Handlebar Vibration Control System. Carter Powel Barsnake Inventor.
              Last edited by Guest; 02-27-2007, 10:49 PM.

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                #22
                Originally posted by Mike McNaney View Post
                Nice bike by the way. Is that the one off craigs list that was posted here?
                Yes, got it for $1200!

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                  #23
                  On the FZ1 board the standard fix is lead shot like the type used in shot gun shells. Very cheap. Haven't tried it, but it comes out easily if it doesn't work unlike caulk or silicone. Probably won't help clip ons very much. Needs to be packed in tightly, most people swear by it even those that have tried bar snakes.

                  On my FZ1 the chain, chain alignment, and wear on the front tire, BT020 scallop have the most influence on bar vibration. When I put on a new chain, sprockets and tires its like having a new bike again with 0 vibration. Causes of Bar vibration is very subjective and everyone has their own opinions of whats causing it.

                  Avoid gripping bars hard (death grip). Hard to do with clip ons and far forward weight distribution. For me the problem is more with the throttle hand. Which is why I use the throttle rocker. Allows me to control throttle with my palm but still have fingers covering the brake. If you find the problem is worse for right hand, at $8.00 no matter what solution you try the Rocker should be part of it.

                  Throttle rocker may come in contact with tank at full lock if bars aren't adjusted right so might not be viable for clip ons.

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by distraction628 View Post
                    I tried the Sil-a-cone caulking ....don't waste your time...try lead shot. I did both before I got bar snake.....The lead shot worked better then the caulking....Just my 2cents worth
                    So how does the lead shot compare to the Bar Snake in terms of vibration reduction and weight?
                    Ed

                    To measure is to know.

                    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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                      #25
                      i just ordered this one. lets see how it works http://www.manicsalamander.com/image...6_6_bk_600.jpg
                      i also put fishing weight lead in the bars. p.s. the stuff from china isn't all lead but it worked there is less vibration and non at some rpm's. i wanna put more in but i may change the drag bars out first.
                      Last edited by Guest; 04-14-2009, 01:49 PM.

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                        #26
                        I have Manic Salamander on my 1000G & a Bar snake on my 1000E. Neither completely solves the problem but they do help a little.

                        Dan
                        1980 GS1000G - Sold
                        1978 GS1000E - Finished!
                        1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
                        1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
                        2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
                        1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
                        2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!

                        www.parasiticsanalytics.com

                        TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

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                          #27
                          FWIW, I filled my 700S bars with leadshot after cramming a cork into one end. I was impressed with the difference for the price. Easy to remove too. My theory is that the shot helps to dampen the vibration vs change the harmonics to a different frequency. Cheap to try, thats fer sure.
                          Willie in TN
                          Common sense has become so uncommon that I consider it a super power.


                          Present Stable includes:
                          '74 GT750 Resto-mod I've owned since '79
                          '83 GS1100E (The best E I've ever enjoyed, Joe Nardy's former bike)
                          '82 GS1100G Resto project

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                            #28
                            just got my maniac salamanders, installed and will test later

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                              #29
                              Lead shotgun pellets (size 6 or smaller) work well

                              I have reduced vibration significantly on my 82 750EZ by pouring lead shotgun pellets (smaller the better, but size 6 to 8 works very well - larger the size # shot = smaller the round pellet size) into my vintage 80's Superbike handlebar.

                              You can fill the bar up completely, using the grips as means to keep the shot in (more easily modified), or you can insert a cork or rubber plug inside the handlebar to limit the amount of lead pellets you pour into the bar. This technique, along with good quality foam grips, will help a lot.

                              If several folks go in together to buy a bag of shotgun pellets, it's a whole lot less $$, plus together you can use much more of the product without waste!

                              I did this about ten years ago, so I'm not sure about the cost per bag of shot anymore. Hope this helps

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                                #30
                                Several guys have reported squirting some silicon into the bars first about 6" to 8" in. Let that set and then just fill up the ends with shot. Finish by sealing the last 1" with more silicon.

                                If you want to do it without removing the bars from the bike you can still squirt the silicon but then just put a condom full of shot into each end. Seal with silicon and you're good to go. The finger off a rubber glove will also work, as will a cling wrap & lead shot 'sausage'.

                                Final note - Don't pack them in hard. You just want them snug so they can move 'ever so slightly' and absorb vibrations.

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