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the turbo is back.. this is a long one

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    #16
    It could be a gauge problem, but you wrote:

    ""went and bought some 110 octane and off I went, the bike is almost too much to ride, at 7k its almost pushing 20 lbs of boost. Would love to get it out to a track and find out what it can do. So far I have put about 100 miles on it, with no ill affects. Thanks for all your help guys""

    What I want to know is what you changed from when you wrote this! Too much to ride, to no power? 20lbs to 0? What gives?

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      #17
      Probably off topic here, but how do you guys go about retarding the ignition timing as you make boost? Or...do you still continue to run advanced timing and use the higher octane to prevent detonation?

      ~Adam

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        #18
        i honestly dont know, I got one ride in and put it up for the winter, I roll the bike back out and get basically nothing.
        also do you think that turbo I mentioned will work?
        Last edited by Guest; 05-18-2007, 09:27 AM.

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          #19
          I have no need for any of the B parts. Way too small for my needs. I don't know anyone with a 750 turbo so I am not sure what a good match would be. What compressor and turbine is on the bike now?


          Adam, if you go back to the early days of F/B, they were running fixed timing. There was none of this fancy electronics we have now. Just a mag. But they were running 6's. Way quicker than I plan to go (for now).

          With the MC-4, I can retard about any way you can think of. I just run fixed except during the take off while the bike is still in 1st. I use a Star advancer which is just a solid aluminum part.

          And yes, again in my experience the fuel is key! VP C16 only! (Of course we are not talking about a street bike). Besides retard, you can also cool the charge with a little methanol and water. I have heard guys using a small shot of N2O (10HP sort of numbers) just for the cooling effect. Methanol is a great fuel for this as well if you can get it to work.

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