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any dragracers running a slider clutch?

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    #16
    Originally posted by lecroy View Post
    We bought these from Tony.
    Tony? Forgive my ignorance...
    Bob T. ~~ Play the GSR weekly photo game: Pic of Week Game
    '83 GS1100E ~ '24 Triumph Speed 400 ~ '01 TRIUMPH TT600 ~ '67 HONDA CUB

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      #17
      Lang

      I need to add 10 more characters to post this message......

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        #18
        Thanks guys. Ordered 2 sets of FBG lined clutch plates after reading rosco15's post. I have made a jam nut adjuster by cutting the back off a 3/4" socket and welding "T" handles to it. A 1/4" drive socket will go down the center to the jam nuts. I'll look into the dial height gauge. I can probably build one using a cheap harbor freight digital caliper. I've got several around that have been tweaked, so I wouldn't be out much if it doesn't work out
        I also ordered the 8mm stud kit from MTC. I won't change out the 6mm studs until winter unless something breaks
        I figured that a slider was going to be more expensive than the lockup.... I wasn't wrong
        I'll post what happens when I run next. ( on the 19th, 20th, & 21st) Should be a well prepped track, 16 car pro mod show & 4 T/F Harleys on an 1/8 mile

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          #19
          We used to snap the smaller studs frequently with the top gas car tire bikes. Always had to stay on top of them. With the larger studs we have not had any problems. We think they broke because we were setting the air gap for a pro-tree and this places more force on the studs.

          On the little bike (7" tire 8.90 index class) we never broke the studs, or the tit, or the plates for that matter.

          We use all FBG plates. Not saying they are better than OEM, but we buy in bulk (100 plates at a time) so they don't cost near as much.

          I am not expert on this but I would think that the slider is more controlled not because it is softer, but because of how the plate pressure is controlled. I have not had the luxery of being able to play with one. We know what our setups need to be and always do the same thing.

          Consider that when I ran that 8.35 pass, my short time was 1.27 with a multi-stage. Both the Shark and Raptor can pull teens with a slider no problem and can run in the 7's. Picture is the Shark in action.

          Ryan, I am sorry I have not posted some video of Mr. Green yet. I have not forgot. For some reason I can't find your question about setting the stall and 2-step. I may have missed this point when you were hot into that air clutch. When it was a pro-tree we needed everything we could get to cut a good light. So the bikes were set on the hairy edge. We use a line lock to hold the bikes in position once staged. We set the stall by looking at the chain. Once the chain started to bounce we knew it was on the edge.

          For E/T we don't want these hairy touchy things. We want things as lame as we can go but still play the cat.
          Last edited by Guest; 12-18-2008, 12:23 PM.

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            #20
            Originally posted by lecroy View Post

            Ryan, I am sorry I have not posted some video of Mr. Green yet. I have not forgot. For some reason I can't find your question about setting the stall and 2-step. I may have missed this point when you were hot into that air clutch. When it was a pro-tree we needed everything we could get to cut a good light. So the bikes were set on the hairy edge. We use a line lock to hold the bikes in position once staged. We set the stall by looking at the chain. Once the chain started to bounce we knew it was on the edge.
            No thats exactly what you told me when I first switched over. I was going out on my own and trying to flash the clutch. I thought it might make for a faster 60'.

            Where do you consider your stall speed. Where the bike actually moves forward or where you can feel the clutch draging, but it isn't really pulling the bike forward yet.

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              #21
              Originally posted by rosco15 View Post
              Where do you consider your stall speed. Where the bike actually moves forward or where you can feel the clutch draging, but it isn't really pulling the bike forward yet.
              Good question!
              Bob T. ~~ Play the GSR weekly photo game: Pic of Week Game
              '83 GS1100E ~ '24 Triumph Speed 400 ~ '01 TRIUMPH TT600 ~ '67 HONDA CUB

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                #22
                That was my question too.

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by rosco15 View Post
                  Where do you consider your stall speed. Where the bike actually moves forward or where you can feel the clutch draging, but it isn't really pulling the bike forward yet.
                  Where the bike starts to move. For E/T we set the 2-step about 200 below the stall. No reason to make it that tight.

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                    #24
                    I went 200 under where the bike starts to move. The chain is bouncing now.
                    1.345, 1.354,
                    1.347, 1.357, 1.348, 1.354.

                    Baatfam,
                    What do you see in 60' over the course of a day?

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