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82 1100 GK timing advance?

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    #16
    the bikes are set up with a very modest advance profile for several reasons and Optimizing the timing and carb settings is just good mechanics,plain and simple.This is the Performance Mods section isn`t it? l really can`t believe people trying to talk you out of tuning your bike here,especially in this particular forum. Don`t change the stock settings? they are a guide,nothing more in my opinion and a good tuner takes it from there and brings out the best the bike has.Do enough tuning and you`ll find that "one setting for all" is a compromise and often there is horsepower still on the table. l find the same true of chassis tuning,the bikes are spit off the assembly line with a basic set-up and a good tuner will use that as a starting point. Good luck tuning your bike,you can`t go wrong getting it set up right.

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      #17
      Grandpa does have a point -- as crude as the stock system of advance is, the potential benefits of advancing timing are very small unless the engine has been heavily modified in other ways.

      Exactly my point. This bike obviously needs a lot of work, and the owner would be far better off paying attention to the basics, rather than fooling with the timing. Get it road-ready first, then think about changing things around, which, in my opinion, isn't worth the time or trouble. This is a contrarian view, different from what the rest of you (other than bwringer) may think. Modifying a GS1100E is one thing; modifying a GS1100GK is ridiculous.

      I don't care what any of you think of me. I tell it like it is, the way I see it. I'm not retracting anything I've written. I'm off this thread for good, having said what I'm glad I said.

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        #18
        Move your plate opposite of engine rotation to advance and with rotation to retard. The best way to check is to check your timing at full advance (with the flyweights on full extend) and put a timing gun on it. I own an adjustable timing gun and that's what I used to set my 750 when I converted over to a complete Dyna system. I had to set each pair of cylinders seperately because I ripped everything apart. I'm out half a degree between 1/3 and 2/4 but it runs fine and I'm not getting any vibrations or anything. I can dig out a manual and give you the complete skinny on tha adjustments if you like. It doesn't need much moving to get 3 or 4 degrees out of it.

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          #19
          I have a manual for the basics but this exercise was just that of fine tuning. I'll look into the Dyna adjustable in the future but for now I just wanted to see what a small advance would do for how its set up. Its not totally stock and I really don't understand the fuss. Just because it doesn't have a chain means I can't fine tune it? Anyway, thanks to those of you who helped me. I'll post the results after I tinker a way for a short while. I have always run premium in all my bikes even though some don't need it and it could be a waste of money. So, after the tuning it will still get the expensive gas.

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            #20
            Originally posted by fat_sac View Post
            I have a manual for the basics but this exercise was just that of fine tuning. I'll look into the Dyna adjustable in the future but for now I just wanted to see what a small advance would do for how its set up. Its not totally stock and I really don't understand the fuss. Just because it doesn't have a chain means I can't fine tune it? Anyway, thanks to those of you who helped me. I'll post the results after I tinker a way for a short while. I have always run premium in all my bikes even though some don't need it and it could be a waste of money. So, after the tuning it will still get the expensive gas.
            Grandpa has a point, but you did post this in the performance forum.
            I guess that performance is subjective! For some, it is a simple matter of optimal tuning of a near stock configuration. For others, it's being the fastest SOB in the class, at all cost.
            I too have a shaftie. I know it has its performance limitations because of extra weight via the shaft drive and a minor handling disadvantang compared to chain drive, because of the diff weight and it's offset position. I acccept that and have countered by over boring and raising the CR along with fitting a programmable electronic advance to the bike.
            My bike still won't blow away an 1150, but is exciting, reliable and extremely comfortable over long distances, even in it's naked condition.
            If you want to modify/tune your shaftie, go for it and have some fun.
            :) The road to hell is paved with good intentions......................................

            GS 850GN JE 894 10.5-1 pistons, Barnett Clutch, C-W 4-1, B-B MPD Ignition, Progressive suspension, Sport Demons. Sold
            GS 850GT JE 1023 11-1 pistons. Sold
            GS1150ES3 stock, V&H 4-1. Sold
            GS1100GD, future resto project. Sold

            http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/P1000001.jpg
            http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/P1000581.jpg

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              #21
              grampa has a point......on his head\\/

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