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newer gsxr inverted front end swap

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    #16
    Originally posted by katman View Post
    91 - 98 gsxr 1100 forks will bolt on but the clipons bolt to the top of the triple which costs you an inch of fork length.
    The other way to look at this is that you can gain that inch in fork length by sliding them down flush with the top triple and using tubular bars or setting your clipons below the triple.

    Mark

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      #17
      An important thing to remember: those new components you are putting on that 20 year old frame are designed to take WAY more stress than the frame of your beloved 750. You flog that bike too hard for too long, and trouble could ensue. Thenagain, your riding style might be moderate enough that you will never have a problem. I have done similar mods and haven't had a problem. My riding style is quite sedate, too.

      Good luck! :-D
      Mike

      1982 GS1100EZ

      Text messages with my youngest brother Daniel right after he was paralyzed:

      Me: Hey Dan-O. Just wanted to say howdy & love ya!

      Dan-O: Howdy and Love you too. Doing good, feeling good.

      Me: Give 'em hell, Little Bro!

      Dan-O: Roger that! :)

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        #18
        Originally posted by katman View Post
        91 - 98 gsxr 1100 forks will bolt on but the clipons bolt to the top of the triple which costs you an inch of fork length.

        91 - 95 gsxr 750 forks are another bolt on. there are no bearing issues with either of these. They bolt strait on. If you go 93,94,95 the steering stops also work.

        You don't have to mess with pulling stems and bearings. "kiss" keep it simple stupid... is my guidline. As far as wheels to a 4.5 or 5.5 is the same diff. the distance from hub bearing to bearing is the same. Only the tire size is diff. get a 5.5 and run a 170 or 180.

        300 bucks????? good luck. You need complete front end with brakes wheel rotors, fender, clipons, master cylinder to run the 4 piston calipers, triples, axle, spacers.......you will also need a back end complete with offset sprocket
        the 300 is just the front budget. but like I said I can spend more but I'm a cheap man , lol

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          #19
          I'm putting a set of 2001 GSXR750 usd forks on my '83 1100E via a '92 or '93 (not sure which) GSXR1100 lower & stem, and a CBR954RR upper triple. All I had to do was have 2 aluminum bushings made to adapt the lower to the fork tubes (the triple was about 2.5mm too loose for the forks), and a smaller steel bushing made to go in between the upper triple and the stem, as the stem is too small for the triple. I've gotten most of my info from Katman, though that was over 1-1/2 yrs ago, and I believe he went a little different route. Anyway, the 954 upper is what he recommended because they're a dropped triple, and give you another inch of clearence for those shorter usd forks.

          There are some really great threads on this elsewhere in performance mods, and in Katmans "Building an I.C.B.M. Katana" thread.

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            #20
            BTW, Katman was also very right about you needing to run an offset countershaft sprocket with a rear tire that wide.

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              #21
              Originally posted by spdjunkie View Post
              I'm putting a set of 2001 GSXR750 usd forks on my '83 1100E via a '92 or '93 (not sure which) GSXR1100 lower & stem, and a CBR954RR upper triple. All I had to do was have 2 aluminum bushings made to adapt the lower to the fork tubes (the triple was about 2.5mm too loose for the forks), and a smaller steel bushing made to go in between the upper triple and the stem, as the stem is too small for the triple. I've gotten most of my info from Katman, though that was over 1-1/2 yrs ago, and I believe he went a little different route. Anyway, the 954 upper is what he recommended because they're a dropped triple, and give you another inch of clearence for those shorter usd forks.

              There are some really great threads on this elsewhere in performance mods, and in Katmans "Building an I.C.B.M. Katana" thread.

              the 954 upper is a diff offset than the 1100 lower so you can' t use it and be safe riding. You have to use the complete 754 triple set up. your forks will slip right in properly with no bushings. The 1100 lower is 56mm and the 750 forks you are using are 54mm.

              My advise is don't mix and match tooo much or you will be headin for trouble. Believe me... I have done it already.

              One other thing, the '01 forks are an inch shorter than the '90's and you have to use the newer wheel without a speedo drive so you will need to get an electronic speedo if that sort of thing interests you at all. Some guys don't care if they have a speedo.
              Last edited by katman; 11-13-2007, 08:52 PM.
              KATANA CUSTOMS/TECH

              Instagram: @rjmedia.tech, Updated more often, even from the events

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                #22
                Hey Rob, thanks for the advice. I'm actually having a guy I work with plot the center points on both triples today using some very expensive inspection equiptment. If they all line up, I'm set. If not, I guess I'm going to be in the market for a set of early '90's GSXR1100 forks. I'm already going with a Veypor, so the speedo is not an issue.

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                  #23
                  Well, I just got the results. There's only a .014" difference between the center-to-center points of the fork rings, but there's a .090" difference in the offset of the steering pivot point. The larger offset is the lower clamp so that translates into slightly more rake & trail at the front axle. Taking the top triple as the starting point, and adding another two thirds (a little more, really) it still only makes for about 3/10 of an inch forward of where the axle would've been. I think these are acceptable numbers, as the more important thing is the spacing of the clamps, since the forks need to be utterly parallel. The only thing I'm worried about now, is maybe having to grind a bit out of the upper rear, and lower front of the lower clamp bushings I'm having made, to accomadate the very slight difference in angle. That shouldn't be a problem either, since the bushings are only for "pinch" to make up the difference in clamp I.D. and fork O.D.

                  I'll try a mock-up later to dertermine geometry, & safety, etc. but I don't want to continue to hijack this thread.

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