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there has to be a cheap or easy way to fab rearsets

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    #31
    if you cut the arm and then fabbed an angle into it it would prolly do the thing..

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      #32
      should work...i'll have to take a closer look at it when i tear into the bike.

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        #33
        oh duh... i guess you found here already (tonupsoldier on the dotheton forum)

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          #34
          to try and get around the kickstart problem look for dirtbike kickstart levers. a lot of them have tons of bends to get around their pegs.



          not the best pic but gives you an idea. this is off my rmz450 i'll have to see if it even remotely matches up to my gs.

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            #35
            Ohhh EXCELLANT IDEA Darren! I didnt even think of that, but i wonder how hard it would be to find a kick lever with the same size spline?

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              #36
              dunno i'd assume on like a lil 125 or something or 4 stroke 250 the spline may be smaller as the engine's smaller.

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                #37
                True. 'spose you could (if you happen to be a welder, or know someone that is) cut the mounting portion off of your GS's kick lever, and weld it onto the upper portion of the dirtbike's lever...that could be done pretty cleanly. I wonder how strong it would be tho?? Like could it withstand the constant (or semi constant anyway) abuse of kicking it? Im no welder, so i dunno how strong a weld can be, but id think maybe even stronger than the original metal itself?

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                  #38
                  $77.00
                  1. $50.00 for a complete (ugly, and or bent) set of 1991 GSXR1100 pegs, brackets, shifter, master cylinder, etc. Rear caliper and hanger came with it as well. Quite a deal.
                  2. $10.00 for piece of heavy low-tech 1/4 steel plate.
                  3. $17.00 for hardware, drill bit, etc.
                  4. Hayabusa shifter linkage I had laying around the GarageMahal.
                  I think $77.00 is about as cheap as you can go.
                  They end up about 5" back, and around 1 1/2" up.
                  Nothing on the frame was modified. The stock brake hoses, and switch wiring were not modified either. The stock peg set up and master would bolt right back on in about an hour.

                  These are the plates after the drill press. They are 4" x 4"





                  They are not clean, or pretty, or finished, but they are on there and they work fine...But they look like h#ll.
                  The whole mess still has to come back apart to be cleaned, greased and the brackets cut.
                  Last edited by Guest; 12-09-2007, 04:52 PM.

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                    #39
                    Say 8track did the 781000 use the same frame as the 78 750? If so i may have to hunt me some of those up. I got my Raasks and they arent going to work. Bolt right up to an 80 and up frame, but no dice on my 77.

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                      #40
                      Originally posted by TheCafeKid View Post
                      Say 8track did the 781000 use the same frame as the 78 750?
                      I don't think it's the same.

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                        #41
                        The frames are very similar but with subtle differences, a lot of parts will swap over but some wont without modification

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                          #42
                          I was just wondering if the original peg holes were in the same place. but you didnt mount those to the original peg holes did you 8track? Man. I'll figure something out. First i need to fix this damn brake system, rearsets are the least of my worries...lol

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                            #43
                            Originally posted by TheCafeKid View Post
                            First i need to fix this damn brake system, rearsets are the least of my worries...lol
                            Get to bike going...You have too many irons in fire as it is. :shock:

                            And yes, I did use the original mounting holes.

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