1986 GS550es wheels and suspension

[LeeGS550E]

zig,
Just want to make sure you don't think you need the 700 swingarm. You can still fit the kat rims just fine without it. Its just a nicer looking piece than the 550's steel unit. I don't expect to see much in the way of a performance return, but its a better looking part for sure.

Anyway, good luck scouring for the kat parts. I got my deal on craigslist. Some dude had a gs500 frame with the kat front end and rims, along with some other parts that he didn't know about, and I got the whole setup for $200. You'll find it eventually, even if you have to go to fleabay. Let us know when you start bolting it on. As you can see, many people here have done it.

[zig06]

Lee,
Sorry for the miss understanding, but yes, I am interested in the 700 swingarm. Check your mail for a PM.

[zig06]

Quick progress update:

Found a '85 GS-700 aluminum swingarm in California, hopefully it'll be here in a few days. I think I may have paid a bit more than what I should have. But for $90 I got the arm, all the front spacers and the pivot bolt. I also got the rear bolt and all the wheel spacers.

I also found a '94 Katana 750 for $200. It's a bare frame with all the suspension, wheels and brakes. The only thing that's really missing is the front fender and the rear brake disk.

Is there anything that I need to do to verify that the sprockets are lined up??

Also, one thing that I'm not liking is the blue/purple color of the wheels, any suggestions on painting? Or would it be better to just strip them and clear coat?

[zig06]

UPDATE!

Here's what I've done so far.

1. Installed the '84 GS700 swingarm. The suspension link off of the swingarm and connects to the rocker, isn't quite a match. My 550 link is too narrow to bolt on to the 700 arm. And the 700 link is too wide for my 550 rocker. So I'll have to cut the 700 link. But this is also an opportunity to raise the rear of the bike by making it longer than stock. So all is not lost. I did have to spread the frame a touch to get the swingarm in the frame. This was done with a 2 ton bottle jack. I only needed about 1.5mm, so no biggy.

2. Installed the '94 750 Kat rear wheel into the 700 swingarm. It pretty much bolted in, but I did need to slightly bend the brake torque arm.

3. Bolted up the '94 Kat 750 triple clamps and forks (plus the Kat front wheel). The steer tube is a direct bolt in item, even though it's off of a bike that 9 years newer.

Now for the "problems".

1. The 550 ignition key switch will not bolt up to the 750 triple clamps. With enough cutting and welding it would, but it just wouldn't look right in the end. So I've elected to purchase a new '94 Kat ignition switch and modify it's harness to clip into mine. In the end, this is the only decent solution that I could find.

2. The 550 mount for the instrument gauge cluster has to be modified to fit the 750 triple clamps. Not a big deal, but again, it has to be done.

3. So far, this is the biggest pain. With the 700 swingarm and the 750 rear wheel, I need a 10mm offset sprocket. A few places offer them, but no one stocks them... So far I've waited about 3 weeks on an order from Drive Systems. I don't blame them ~ AFAM just needs to make one and ship it.... And even then I had to order a 16 tooth instead of a stock 14. Which also means that I need to get a new rear sprocket, and not that many people make 54 tooth Katana sprockets.

After that it's shake down time and then paint!

Does anyone know if I can powder coat these wheels ('94 Katana's) with out worring about them warping in the oven? [-o<

[LeeGS550E]

Do a little part number research, and I think you'll find that the bolt pattern on the Katana sprockets matches early SV wheels - that might get you closer to your 54 tooth. I had to go through this when I put a 520 chain on my setup. Can't recall the numbers, but I think the year range was around an '01 SV.

And nice job!

[Cassius086]

PICS, Man, PICS!!!! :-D

[zig06]

Thanks!

The only thing that really bothers me now is that it's nice out and my bike is still under the knife.

Did some searches last night on this sight and some kind soul (I wish I remembered who) posted a phone number for Randy at Advance Precision 888-347-7262. He's willing to custom make a 530, 10mm offset, 15 tooth sprocket for me!!!!!!!!!! \\/ I'll post how that comes out.

It'll still be a couple weeks, machining it and then having it heat treated takes time. But at least I'll get it. PMF and a few others pretty much laughed at me over the phone when I mentioned the need for an offset sprocket for a 550, so I can install a wider tire. Guess where I won't be shopping in the future?

Anyways, I'm still looking at a couple more weeks. I'll post some pic's when I get a little bit closer.

[zig06]

Ok Ok Ok, here's some pic's. But please keep the messy barn comments to a minimum. I do have 2 other projects going ('81 RM250 and '82 PE175).

First, as it was before I started on it last fall.


And as it is now.

[zig06]

And even though the stock Katana brake torque arm is bent, I still needed to go a tad bit farther.



And here you can see the differences between the stock '94 Katana top triple clamp, and the issues with installing the '86 550 key switch.



Clearly, the stock 550 switch is bigger in every way. So using the Katana clamp, the 550 switch would be way too close to the steer tube. And it would actually hit the steering lock. This forces the use of the Katana switch.



On a more positive note. The Katana triple clamp steering stops (on the lower clamp) line up perfectly with the 550's frame. So no welding or machining is needed there.

Also, the pin out for the key switches appears to be identical, so when the new switch arrives (maybe this Friday) I should be able to cut and solder the old harness end on to the new switch and be golden!

[zig06]

Finally got the '94 Katana ignition key switch in and installed. As I suspected, it's wired exactly the same as my bike, but the connector is bigger. So sticking with my basic ideals of "modifying the part to fit the bike" I cut the new switch harness and attached the old switch plug to that (solder and heat shrink tubing).

I then had another issue. The bottom of the new switch came in contact with the fairing bracket, and the new switch didn't align with the steering lock bracket on the frame. But both were fixed with one simple mod. I cut 14mm off of the two bosses that the Kat switch bolts to. This moved it up and away from the fairing bracket and right in line with the steering lock bracket.

Sweet!

Also, when I installed the Kat front brakes, I was going to use the Kat master cylinder as well. But again, there were clearance issues. The Kat handle bars are a little bit narrower than my old bars, and when I went to bolt the Kat master on, the main brake line hit the instrument housing. So I reverted back to my old master cylinder and retained the newer 4 piston front brake calipers (my old ones were 2 piston).

From there the front brakes appeared to bleed out fine, so I believe that the older master cylinder should work fine with the newer brake calipers.

Now I'm down to just needing ONE MORE PART!, and that's my custom front sprocket from Advance Precision. I called him yesterday and he said that it should be back from the heat treaters by next Tuesday (May 20th). This means that I could have it by next Friday!! And that means that I could be riding that Saturday!!!

\\/\\/\\/\\/

[kingofvenus]

I still have the '83 master cylinder on mine, works just fine with the Katana 4 pots. Those wheels look great on the older stuff, I stripped all the paint off mine and polished the edges and left the spokes bare aluminum.

[zig06]

I still have the '83 master cylinder on mine, works just fine with the Katana 4 pots. Those wheels look great on the older stuff, I stripped all the paint off mine and polished the edges and left the spokes bare aluminum.

How did you strip the paint off?? I was thinking that the factory used an epoxy paint or powder coated them.

I'm really liking your idea of striping them down to bare aluminum.

[kingofvenus]

Paint stripper and lots of time and elbow grease. My wheels came from opposite ends of the country, (a story in it's self) front wheel had the original finish yet and the paint came off easier than the repainted rear. The edges have a slightly polished finish on them under the paint, they polish up very easily. I ground off the raised letters cast into the spokes too.

[Billy Ricks]

Be careful about sprocket selection. I believe my stock sprockets were a 14/45 combo. I now run a 16/42 combo using 520 sizes with a Regina chain. The new gearing puts the rpm at speed just where it was before the swap. The lower profile radials necessitate the gearing change. I used Vortex sprockets intended for a Kat or GSXR, don't remember which. If you go to JT sprockets website they give dimensions on all their sprockets so you know what will work off other models.

BTW, I have a set of Kat gauges if you're interested.

[zig06]

Paint stripper and lots of time and elbow grease. My wheels came from opposite ends of the country, (a story in it's self) front wheel had the original finish yet and the paint came off easier than the repainted rear. The edges have a slightly polished finish on them under the paint, they polish up very easily. I ground off the raised letters cast into the spokes too.

Sounds good. Both of my wheels came from the same bike and both are still a painful purple/blue, so I will be trying this as after the first ride. Because after the first shake down ride, I'm planning on new tires. Size wise it looks like I'll be going with 110/70 and 140/70. Oddly enough I've spent all this time and effort just so I can install new radials and yet, I have no clue as to what brand and style I should run.

How does Dunlp Sport Max's sound? I'm really just wanting a good all around tire that I can pile some miles on going back and forth to work. And still have enough grip to put a smile on my face over the weekends.

All suggestions welcome.

Be careful about sprocket selection. I believe my stock sprockets were a 14/45 combo. I now run a 16/42 combo using 520 sizes with a Regina chain. The new gearing puts the rpm at speed just where it was before the swap. The lower profile radials necessitate the gearing change. I used Vortex sprockets intended for a Kat or GSXR, don't remember which. If you go to JT sprockets website they give dimensions on all their sprockets so you know what will work off other models.

BTW, I have a set of Kat gauges if you're interested.

You know, you've just opened up a huge hole... I never accounted for the rear tire getting smaller. I was only looking at the current sprockets and the final drive ratio. So in many ways I was just trying to get back to my stock 14/48 (3.43 final). But I was only able to get a 15 tooth counter shaft sprocket (the 10mm offset required that I go no smaller). And right now I have a 45 tooth rear on the bike... Even worse, I don't remember what rpm I was running at say 70mph. So, what rpm are you turning at 70mph? And just to be sure, what bike do you have? Also, for now I'm set on the gauges, but I may be ready to upgrade once I hit the road. What year and model Kat gauges do you have?, and could you please send a pic of them to my home email address? (zig06@altelco.net)

And I finally got a new camera, so expect some better pictures in a couple days.