Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

GS1000 DynoJet III Needle E-Clip?

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    GS1000 DynoJet III Needle E-Clip?

    Good morning Everyone,

    I was looking over the DJ Specifications & Instructions (DI0007) and the following Note on Page 14 caught my eye: "On Suzuki Models the 1/2 step leaner position is obtained by placing an adjusting washer above the E-clip on each needle". At first glance this statement seemed to have no effect or to be counter intuitive to me.

    So I went back opened the Red Factory Manual and reviewed the exploded Carburetor view and here is my question. Is the DJ statement true because under the stock E-Clip there is an additional spring and if you add the adjusting washer above the E-Clip it pushes the spring down and with it the position of Needle is lowered thus producing the leaner position? So actually the VM26 needle position is spring loaded? I ask because I shelved the stock VM26mm long ago and was thinking about resurrecting them.

    I know the VM29 S/B much better and the Needle is not spring loaded.
    Steve

    1979 GS1000E (45 Yrs), 1981 GPz550 (11 Yrs)

    #2
    You put the washer UNDER to richen. Ray.

    Comment


      #3
      Just for the record, on the VM carbs, putting the jetting spacer (washer) under the e-clip doesn't do anything at all. On some other carb designs, placing a spacer under the e-clip will effect the jetting.
      supertrap, think of the whole jet needle assembly operation a different way...
      Yes, it's spring loaded. But instead of thinking about the spring being pushed downward more if a jetting spacer sits on top the e-clip, think that the added spacer allows the spring to push the needle UP LESS.
      The approx' .022" thick jetting spacer allows for "1/2" position changes. For our GS's, it always goes on top the e-clip. If you are lean at position 4 from the top and want to go to the next richer position, them you place the clip in position 5 from the top and add the spacer directly on top the e-clip and you get position 4 1/2. If you removed the spacer, the jet needle, under spring tension, would then be able to rise that extra .022" until the e-clip/spacer contacts a fixed brass plate above it. The brass plate has a center hole that allows the top of the needle to pass through, but not the attached e-clip.
      The spring not only keeps tension on the needle and holds it's position, it also is used to keep the needle from being damaged by vibration. It does this by pushing the needle assembly upward until the e-clip or spacer on top contacts a thin brass plate resting under the throttle arm. There's a small dimple on this brass plate that forces the plate to sit cocked. Under spring pressure, the jet needle assembly contacts this uneven surface and becomes cocked/uneven itself, forcing the jet needle/spring assembly off to one side. This is easy to see and feel when everythings assembled and is the reason why you must center the jet needle before being able to fully lower the slide into the carb body. Though it may seem a poor design that the jet needle is forced to rub against the side of the needle jet as throttle position changes, it's better than the alternative. Without it being cocked as it is under pressure, the needle would rattle around and rapidly damage itself.
      With enough usage, the jet needle and needle jet will wear and the jetting will richen anyway, but it generally takes a long time.
      And on the seventh day,after resting from all that he had done,God went for a ride on his GS!
      Upon seeing that it was good, he went out again on his ZX14! But just a little bit faster!

      Comment


        #4
        I have my DJ needle set at three and a half notches down from the top by LEANING the needle a half step by putting the washer over the clip. In order to do a half step to richen it has to come off the spacing on the top of the needle.
        1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
        1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

        Comment


          #5
          I appreciate everyone's input and its now clear in my mind's eye why the Dyno jet statement is correct. Before, I posted I had searched this topic and read over Keith's countless detailed descriptions of the Dyno Jet Stage III Kit & tuning advice which I might add were well written.

          One follow up question, I currently have the DJ Stage III kit installed in my VM29 S/B. I am resurrecting the stock VM26'ers with stock components, I plan is to install 127.5 mains, needle clip @ #4 or 5 since I am 5000 feet up on the Front Range of the Rockies. Who is currently the best supplier of VM carbs jets, components etc.

          Thanks All
          Steve

          1979 GS1000E (45 Yrs), 1981 GPz550 (11 Yrs)

          Comment


            #6
            I don't know who's the best, but www.Sudco.com in So.Cal carries lots of parts and so does www.Motorcyclecarbs.com
            Position 5 on the jet needles is almost always too rich, especially at your elevation.
            Last edited by KEITH KRAUSE; 01-25-2008, 03:41 AM.
            And on the seventh day,after resting from all that he had done,God went for a ride on his GS!
            Upon seeing that it was good, he went out again on his ZX14! But just a little bit faster!

            Comment

            Working...
            X