What is the "Killer" GS 1100E motor build?

[TurboChris]

After a 15 year hiatus from having 2 1100E's it looks like I am picking up an 83 next week. Having owned about 10 bikes in my days.....I've always remembered the E as one of my favorites (tied with the 2 Stroke Kawi 750 Triples I was into for a few years)

So.....with the bike having over 30,000 miles it's getting a little long in the tooth....

With a budget of around $2000-$3000.....what is the current bitchen performance build? Hopeing to get 150hp or more....I want as much power as I can get with running pump gas...my last E I ended up getting the crank welded and the V&H clutch basket...never went as far as cams, carbs or bigger displacement....but I couldn't afford it then either...Can someone give me the 3 min education?? And if a little more $$ makes a difference...include that too!

Thanks

Chris

[rapidray]

You're ahead of the game if the crank is already welded. Get the 750 oil pump gears & at LEAST a modified clutch basket, if not BILLET. V&H pipe & 36 Mikuni flatslides to start. The Cam Motion G4 cams would be good also. If you can find one get an 1150 stock cylinder & bore it 3 mil bigger to make your 1100 a 1229. A 3 mil bigger 1100 cylinder is ONLY 1166. You MAY still have to do some porting to get to 150 HP. Also, you will need at LEAST coils, if not an entire ignition system. For the street I like the Dynatek 2000 system for a GS. Good luck & have fun with it. Ray.

[Dink]

You're ahead of the game if the crank is already welded. Get the 750 oil pump gears & at LEAST a modified clutch basket, if not BILLET. V&H pipe & 36 Mikuni flatslides to start. The Cam Motion G4 cams would be good also. If you can find one get an 1150 stock cylinder & bore it 3 mil bigger to make your 1100 a 1229. A 3 mil bigger 1100 cylinder is ONLY 1166. You MAY still have to do some porting to get to 150 HP. Also, you will need at LEAST coils, if not an entire ignition system. For the street I like the Dynatek 2000 system for a GS. Good luck & have fun with it. Ray.

Ray that didn't take three minutes!!!:-D But I concur.

Dink

[RacingJake]

Don't forget that 88-89 Slingshot head to really wake that old dog up :twisted:

[lecroy]

Whats the bike for? Street?

$3000 seems like it could net you a used GSXR with 150HP stock... Seems that's the look a lot of guys are wanting now too. You would get the inverted forks, wider tires too.



Price on the parts for the GS add up quick. They are much less common now and the aftermarket prices just keep going up. Just a few years ago, I would go to the big races and all the vendors would have GS parts, now they have Busa parts...

With 30,000 miles the crank will need some attention. The races start to wear and cut into the rods. I would have it tore down and inspected. If its not really an 83 but older, you want to have them swap out the stator side of the crank. 150HP is not much and as long as the press fit is good, you could get away without a full weld job. The crank builder will know. IMO, no reason to change the stock gears out at this low of power. I have pulled much more power out of the helical gears with no problem. But, if you want to go all out, new rods, SC gear and bearings, plan on $1000 - $1300 just for this part.

The basket is a toss up at this sort of power. I would just go with a HD backing plate, springs and call it a day. If you want to go full out figure around $700.

The output bearing on the GS is weak. I have shattered these before with less than 150 HP. You could just put in new bearings in and maybe have the dogs, forks, rods inspected and cleaned up. Maybe $250? If you want to go full out, figure billet shaft ($400) 2nd and 3rd minimum ($200/gear). Type of cut depends what you want to do with the bike.

I am not sure on the oil pump at 30,000. I would test it before buying a new one. If your not going to run a turbo, I would forget the 750 gears. We run stock gears with the T/G bikes with no problems. These are in the 200HP range.

New cam chain is a must. Forget that stock guide too. Manual tensioner. Gaskets, yamabond, assembly lube, parts cleaner.... Small stuff will add up quick too.

All of this and nothing I wrote will net you any more power and I have spent all your money.

[gsgeezer]

APE racing website has lots of stuff, including prices.

[rapidray]

I agree with Mark on all his points EXCEPT one. The oil pump gear change & the increase in oil volume to the cams is SOOO worth the $50.00 or so they cost. It is just such CHEAP insurance for the long run. I am glad he has had good luck with the stock 1100 oil pump gears but I don't even run them in my street motors, modified OR stock. Ray.

[lecroy]

Hey Dink is back!!! I'm very sorry I hurt your feelings. Glad your back posting. You have a lot to contribute to the group!

The oil pump gear change & the increase in oil volume to the cams is SOOO worth the $50.00 or so they cost. Ray.

Yea, you may be right we just have not had problems. We wipped out some cams once but it was out of ignorance using stock rockers. LOL Live and learn.

We ran the 750 gears on the Raptor. This engine would eat oil filters. Thought it was brand. Not sure if it was the gears or not. Motor exploded and fixed the problem...


You reminded me of another important detail. Change that oil pickup system, somehow. That stock one has caused me problems. I used to run them to the back, but not so good for stopping. I am now sold on that little Ward deep pickup. I ran one all of last summer and never lost oil pressure during hard takeoff or stopping. If he's wanting to ride on the bake wheel down the interstate, this may not work so well. Don't skimp on the motor oil. Keep the thing full.

At 150, seems you could run the stock clutch with some shims and springs. Next price wise would be a single stage, slider, multi-stage... Just depends what your after. Springs and shims may cost you $40. Slider or multi-stage with parts and machine work your looking in the $400-700 range.

Ok, stud kit and I guess that covers most of the bottom end. And still nothing I have contributed will net you any HP.

Put some NGK plugs in that thing!!! LOL


Ray, still looking for some info on Ray Rains Performance Cycle. What sorts of things is your shop doing? Any new bike shop is a good thing in my book!

[Dink]

Hey Dink is back!!!
Put some NGK plugs in that thing!!! LOL

DO NOT USE NGK plugs!!!! I have worked in spare parts ten years, and riden and worked on bikes for over twenty. EVERY dud plug I have ever encountered has been an NGK. I use and recommend Nippon Denso; I use iridiums.

Dink has been back for a while, he was just very busy, and possiby a little sick of US politics.

Dink

[Big Jay]

You are being quoted some pretty high prices. You might want to go here and shop around:

http://gszone.biz/

[lecroy]

You are being quoted some pretty high prices. You might want to go here and shop around:
http://gszone.biz/

Jay is right, hunt around and know what you want to do with this thing long term before you start spending money on it....

Yea Jay, I was guessing on the prices based on memory. You list a billet shaft PN#1100-55 for $329.95 and between $229 and $249/gear. $100 for bearings. He can figure the cut price, $264 race and double for up/down. I would say I was pretty close with this guess when you figure the whole job.

I said $700 for a high end clutch basket. I am not sure from your site what you would charge. You list GBHS1100 for $449 which I assume is the billet basket and hub assembly with you doing the work? This seems very fair, but I can't find the gears so I assume a customer would have to buy a set and ship them to you? Schnitz lists the Falicon clutch gear for $316 and the crank for $191. So for the clutch I guess it would be around $760? I was a little low I guess...

A 2-stage MTC on Schnitz run $262 with the spacer and bolts. You list one for $225 without the spacer but have the cover for $288.

I already know you don't do this sort of crank work but we had a few done last season and I think my ball park numbers are pretty close.

[lecroy]

DO NOT USE NGK plugs!!!! I have worked in spare parts ten years, and riden and worked on bikes for over twenty. EVERY dud plug I have ever encountered has been an NGK. I use and recommend Nippon Denso; I use iridiums.

Dink has been back for a while, he was just very busy, and possiby a little sick of US politics.

Dink

ROMLMAO!!! Good to have you back!

[rosco15]

I'm thinking for 150 HP you may want to go to a 1260 kit. Possibly look at running a basically stock 1150 head with some good springs. Pick up some Mikuni carbs and a good ignition. While the motor is apart put in the unbreakable cam chain guide, new chain, and manual tensioner. If you really want to go all out straight cut primary gears, billet basket, welded crank, 750 oil pump gears, and have the tranny touched up. If you watch ebay you can find alot of these parts at a good savings. You just have to weed out the junk that gets sold there.

[TurboChris]

Good advice.....you guys have given me lots to think about....

Thanks!!