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4 to 1 Exhaust... what's the truth?

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    #31
    Originally posted by doctorgonzo View Post
    That all makes perfect sense. I just don't like them cosmetically, matter of taste.
    The sidewinder design isn't the most attractive one, it is for power not looks. I want the same header and pipe dimensions, packaged with the collector under the engine like typical 4-1 aftermarket systems.

    with the sidewinder exhaust you will lose cornering clearance. Sometimes by a lot depending on the bike.
    I know, that's why I don't want one. I am just saying it makes the most power. I want a "conventional" 4-1 arrangement, with the sidewinder primary tube dimensions and the meg tail pipe. Which V&H don't seem to be interested in producing, unfortunately. If I ever get to it, I am going to make my own but it will not happen very quickly with my work and family commitments.

    Mark

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      #32
      4-1

      You'll have to watch the speed bumps. Some will come down hard after the front wheel comes down off the bump.
      What I don't like is that my 4-1 is offset an inch or so for a center stand and # 3 pipe scrapes when I lean it into a right hander. I don't think there is a solution other than custom pipes.
      There is nothing more dangerous than governing in the name of a theory.---Edmund Burke

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        #33
        Originally posted by ryder60 View Post
        You'll have to watch the speed bumps. Some will come down hard after the front wheel comes down off the bump.
        What I don't like is that my 4-1 is offset an inch or so for a center stand and # 3 pipe scrapes when I lean it into a right hander. I don't think there is a solution other than custom pipes.
        My Kerker 4-1 hasn't given me any clearance issues, but I do not see speed bumps very often and I am very aware of possibly hanging up.

        Unfortunately, a custom 4-1 isn't going to be any better because that big collector has to hang down there under the engine. But it may improve access to the oil filter and drain plug.

        Mark

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          #34
          Ive never had a problem with cornering clearance with my 4into1s and my 77 750 is actually LOWERED just a hair. I DO however HAVE to remove the pipe in order to get to the filter. You could probably get in there, but you'd have oil all over the pipe. Frankly, if you have good header bolts, its not as big of a PITA as you might think, for one, because the 4into1 is MUCH lighter than the stock system, and for two, it comes apart. You can take the meg off seperately off the headers.

          Noise issues: When i first bought my 77 750, the VH came with it, but the idiot PO had not only NOT jetted the bike for the pods and pipe, but he also CUT the baffle out of the pipe. Needless to say it was LOUD LOUD. Loud enough that Harley guys were staring at ME...lol. It did sound mean as hell, but it was just too much. SO i ordered a replacement baffle from VH, complete with the wrapping. It quieted down considerably, and there is no replacement for that sweet sound. Now mind you, if you get on it, it will still scream, but just general riding, normal shifting range, its not all that bad. Definately less offensive than most of the Harleys around here.

          Performance gains: They are REAL. If you tune the bike for the pipe, you will get a marginal increase in upper end power, you will lose just a tad of midrange, but even on a 750, its nearly un-noticeable. For maximum bang for the buck, couple the pipe with pods. There is alot of hubub on this board from people about pods, some are downright facist about keeping the stock airbox. But IF you know how to, or know someone who knows how to, tune the carbs and the bike properly for the pods and pipe combo, it is the SINGLE biggest bang for the buck performance mod you can do short of a complete overbore kit.

          Mike, if you're talking about Pods and Pipe for your "T", get a Dynojet kit, stage 3. If you follow their instructions, and use K&N pods, you can do it yourself and dial it in pretty damn precisely. For us guys with the VM carbs (except for Bruce and his 1000, which they make a Dyno kit for) we have to do it by hand unfortunately, but there is pleanty of info on here to get them dialed in.

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            #35
            Originally posted by TheCafeKid View Post
            Mike, if you're talking about Pods and Pipe for your "T", get a Dynojet kit, stage 3. If you follow their instructions, and use K&N pods, you can do it yourself and dial it in pretty damn precisely. For us guys with the VM carbs (except for Bruce and his 1000, which they make a Dyno kit for) we have to do it by hand unfortunately, but there is pleanty of info on here to get them dialed in.
            But if I just go with the 4-1 and the stock airbox, do I need to go with a jet kit? If so, probably just a stage 1, yes?

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              #36
              Yessir, I believe that would be just fine. \\/ Stage one kits (DJ, anyway) are for bikes with after market exhausts and stock airboxes.
              Mike

              1982 GS1100EZ

              Text messages with my youngest brother Daniel right after he was paralyzed:

              Me: Hey Dan-O. Just wanted to say howdy & love ya!

              Dan-O: Howdy and Love you too. Doing good, feeling good.

              Me: Give 'em hell, Little Bro!

              Dan-O: Roger that! :)

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                #37
                Originally posted by UncleMike View Post
                But if I just go with the 4-1 and the stock airbox, do I need to go with a jet kit? If so, probably just a stage 1, yes?
                I Don't know it ofhand, but check the price difference between the stage 1 kit and the stage 1 and 3 kit. If it's not significant, then you have the stage 3 in case you decide on pods in the future.

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                  #38


                  For the McGuyvers out there.

                  The first generation Yamaha FZ1s have a nice flat 4 into 1 collector on the bottom. The back end of the collector has a butterfly valve thats controlled by the TPS on the carbs. The butterfly valve increases back pressure and torque at lower RPMs, the guts can be removed to make it in-operable and wide open.

                  I know it would be a humungus job to graft the GS down pipes to one but they do just about give these things away when they install after market headers. The FZ1 down pipes are stainless. The back pipe is about 2.25" dia. Just a thought!

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                    #39
                    Originally posted by doctorgonzo View Post
                    I Don't know it ofhand, but check the price difference between the stage 1 kit and the stage 1 and 3 kit. If it's not significant, then you have the stage 3 in case you decide on pods in the future.
                    I just looked- price is the same between and stage 1 and stage 3. They also sell a Stage 1 AND 3 together. FYI

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                      #40
                      Originally posted by Texatl View Post
                      I just looked- price is the same between and stage 1 and stage 3. They also sell a Stage 1 AND 3 together. FYI
                      Yeah, that's what I meant. If the 1 and 3 together (what I bought) is a good price break from buying each individually, then get the combined kit and you have everything for both setups.

                      Comment


                        #41
                        Originally posted by isleoman View Post


                        The first generation Yamaha FZ1s have a nice flat 4 into 1 collector on the bottom.
                        That style of collector does not work nearly as well as the conventional square ones. And it would be a major project to make it all fit, as you note.

                        Mark

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                          #42
                          Originally posted by Mark M View Post
                          That style of collector does not work nearly as well as the conventional square ones. And it would be a major project to make it all fit, as you note.

                          Mark
                          Mark, your probably right however my FZ1 does squeeze 120 hp out of 998cc with this stock set up. Can't beat it for ground clearance.

                          I saw an after market exhaust for an oil cooled GSXR1100 on ebay with a similar design can't remember the mfr. The guy was claiming that this flat set up was known for reducing the dip in the rev line around 6000 rpms that convential 4 into 1 created on the GSXR probably looses on the top end though.

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                            #43
                            Originally posted by isleoman View Post


                            For the McGuyvers out there.

                            The first generation Yamaha FZ1s have a nice flat 4 into 1 collector on the bottom. The back end of the collector has a butterfly valve thats controlled by the TPS on the carbs. The butterfly valve increases back pressure and torque at lower RPMs, the guts can be removed to make it in-operable and wide open.

                            I know it would be a humungus job to graft the GS down pipes to one but they do just about give these things away when they install after market headers. The FZ1 down pipes are stainless. The back pipe is about 2.25" dia. Just a thought!
                            Doh! Now there is someone who is using his head. And giving good advice!=D>

                            Comment


                              #44
                              I went to the 4-1 (MAC) because it was the only unit I could get for my 650 to replace the stocker that was falling apart. I still have the stock air intake setup and with that no rejetting was needed. Besides a trimmer look to the bike, the sound is great. Haven't really noticed a power increase.

                              Doing it again, I'd go for the black headers if they were available, because the MAC chrome isn't very good-a lot of surface rusting that constantly needs attention.

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                                #45
                                Originally posted by UncleMike View Post
                                But if I just go with the 4-1 and the stock airbox, do I need to go with a jet kit? If so, probably just a stage 1, yes?
                                There are those that will debate this untill they are blue in the face. Some people swear up and down that just putting an 4into1 on it, and keeping the stock airbox, you can actually dial it in with screw adjustments. I simply dont see how that is possible, considering you dramaticly changed the scavenging and backpressure attributes. But then again, I suppose if they say they've done it, then its possible. Will it run perfectly? Probably not, but Ive never tried it so I really cant say for sure. But, recently I stumbled on to these "On/Off loud pipes" National Cycle makes for cruisers anymore, and granted, a fair share of these bikes are FI anymore, but i dont see how that can possibly work either, considering you are more or less at the flip of a switch removing the baffle from your pipes, but who knows...

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