List of upcoming mods...

[TheCafeKid]

Okkkk So just an update:


Installed RenoBruces oil pressure gauge...FANTASTIC lil farkle. Love it. Easy to install, works perfectly, and its nice piece of mind to look down and know you have pressure, or you dont, or TOO much. Thankfully, Im all good

Today, she got a valve adjusment, only been 3000 miles or so, but found three tight ones. The bike, as i had said, when i first bought it, was super smooth. Nice and deceptively fast. Even to me, i would look down and im doing 80, and didnt even feel it. Lately, she's been SUPER buzzy above 60mph. You KNOW you're going fast without looking cos you can FEEL it coursing thru the bike. SO, off came the valve cover, and in went some new shims. We also checked my cam chain for wear...WELL within limits, and pulled the tensioner. Functioning properly and not leaking a drip. So..that shot my cam chain clatter theory all to hell. SO where the hell is that rattling coming from? Well, now that that bike is back to un-lawfully smooth (and im not kidding. Tonight when coming home from the races we went to see, i looked down at the gauge, thinking i was just cruising. I was, at 75mph and not a buzz at all. This could get ME in trouble...lol) I managed to FINALLY feel where the rattling was coming from. The starter clutch. Well, the stator cover was tapping in time to the noise, so I can only assume its the clutch, cos i KNOW its starting to go. Load off my mind that its nothing else. I can replace that easy enough.

We also adjusted the float levels in the carbs, and played a lil bit, checked the sync after the valve adjustment. Spot on, or as close as can be. The wall i was hitting is nearly gone. Most importantly the bike is now SUPER responsive in the RPM range I generally ride in (3.5-6k) But it pulls like a truck in all gears again. Lil hesitation still, but i think the needle adjustments, and a bump up in the main will take care of that.

More to come in time

[greg78gs750]

hey, guys, dont wanna hijack too much here, but can the twin pot mod be made on a single disk front? cause thats what i got on my 78 750....i am ordering some steel lines today, but the twinpot mod sounds yummy.....everything i have said says i need the dual disk setup....thanks guys

[8trackmind]

hey, guys, dont wanna hijack too much here, but can the twin pot mod be made on a single disk front?

You would have to get a fork lower off a dual disk bike.
Go here
and here

[TheCafeKid]

You would have to get a fork lower off a dual disk bike.
Go here
and here

Hrmm. But it one WANTED to (for weight savings and asthetic reasons) one could use the dual pot on a single tho correct? And gain a lil stopping power over the single single?

[8trackmind]

Hrmm. But it one WANTED to (for weight savings and asthetic reasons) one could use the dual pot on a single tho correct? And gain a lil stopping power over the single single?

Yes.
Depending in the bike, you could simply swap the lower part of the fork. On some models you would have to swap both of the forks even if you just ran one caliper.

I might go back to one caliper on my 550.

[TheCafeKid]

Yes.
Depending in the bike, you could simply swap the lower part of the fork. On some models you would have to swap both of the forks even if you just ran one caliper.

I might go back to one caliper on my 550.

Oi maybe im missing something. Are the mount spacings different on say, my 77 750s single caliper, vs the 78s dual? I thought they just put the same calipers and rotors on both sides of the 78. Guess i'll have to break out the tape and take some measurements and see if Dans bracket will work at all on the 77. Id like to toss a dual pot on there, simply because i both like the look of the single sided rotor, leaves more visible spokes on the other side, and id like the lil extra stopping power the dual pot would give me.

[8trackmind]

Oi maybe im missing something. Are the mount spacings different on say, my 77 750s single caliper, vs the 78s dual?

Yes, they are NOT the same.
The bikes with a single disk have a 300mm rotor, and as such have the caliper mount higher up on the fork leg. The trick brackets WILL NOT WORK ON A SINGLE DISK FORK LEG.

The dual disk bikes use 276mm rotors. The brackets will work only on fork legs for dual calipers, and ONLYif you use the 300mm rotor off of a 550 or larger GS.

[greg78gs750]

ok, cool. well, i guess i will stay with the single pot for now. the stainless line has gotta be a pretty good improvement, and i ride pretty conservatively anyway....thanks for the info, guys!!! now, you engineers develop a bracket for us single disk guys!!!

greg

[Ed Vrolijk]

another option on brake lines

Hey Cafe kid,
On a previous bike of me i had only one brake line going from the master cylinder to the righthand calliper, the double banjobolt in there, and from that point a brake line from the righthand calliper to the lefthand calliper, just over the front fender. If it works for the moto GP guys it works as well for me (and the rest of us)
And it makes your handle bars look a little tidyer.
Ed

[Mark M]

Hey Cafe kid,
On a previous bike of me i had only one brake line going from the master cylinder to the righthand calliper, the double banjobolt in there, and from that point a brake line from the righthand calliper to the lefthand calliper, just over the front fender. If it works for the moto GP guys it works as well for me (and the rest of us)
And it makes your handle bars look a little tidyer.
Ed

This is what my 06 GSXR has stock and it works fine, but can be a PITA to bleed because the high point in the second line is a natural trapping point for air. I have a 2 line conversion kit for it and will be installing that later this summer.

Mark

[TheCafeKid]

Okkkkk Quick update, as *I* dont have any pics at the moment (Steve does tho, and I will take some in the next couple days to show everyone as well)

My list of upcoming mods has been going pretty good. So far the following have been done.

Carbs re-tuned and tweeked. Shimmed the needles, and while i think i am a hair rich on them, the power gained here was amazing. Night and day difference. Being slightly rich there has harmed my MPG just a hair, I've gone from ranging from 37mpg-47mpg depending on conditions, to just 37mpg no matter what. Highway, cruising, city, doesnt seem to matter, i average about 37mpg, give or take a few tenths. But, in reality, this still isnt that bad of mileage, and the bike is running so damn well, I am not sure that i will mess with it. Ive put around 1000 miles on since the tweeking, and the plugs, while a *LIL* dark, are NOT sooty. I think i can live with this personally.

Had to do a valve adjustment in there, dunno if i touched on that at all in my last update. I think i did. Bike is SOOOO much smoother now. Its really kinda scary how easily i can creep up to well beyond what my speedo will read, and not realize it because the bike just keeps going, and never gets buzzy. I love it.

Oil cooler installed. Just got that done today. Steve and I had some fun with that. When i get some pics up, you will see that aside from the cooler hanging out right in front there, and if you look, you'll see the adaptor, but other than that, there are very little visible clues that one is installed at all. All the hose was routed and hidden rather well i must say. Had a bit of a brain fart on my part, and didnt screw the pressure sensor down tight. Fired it up the first time and oil pumped out everywhere. What a mess. Also, as per everyone elses discovery, the oil pressure light on my bike WILL NOT SHUT OFF. I simply pulled the wire, as i have a RenoBruce pressure gauge assembly on it, so I CAN SEE that there is pressure. I had hoped to install the cooler with the fittings facing UP, so as not to really disturb my sightglass readings, but alas, the tach cable was in the way, and obviously not re-routeable, so upside down (or rightside up, i guess) it went. Of course, when i shut the bike off, the window is full. This is kinda worrysome in a way, but i added a quart, considering i lost about half of one on the floor and the top of the crank case, and the cooler and hoses likely took up most of half a quart. So, as long as i DONT add more than that, i suppose i am ok? Anyone have any ideas on keeping tabs on this? I would appreciate it. It seems to be working great however, the "Terry" adaptor, as some of you saw, shines up real nice on a buffing wheel...lol. Thanks for the help Steve!

Also got the coil relay mod done. My bike, i do believe, has an ever weakening battery, and i fully plan to install a new AGM when i return from Red River Gorge, or shortly thereafter. But she's still charging at around 13.5, and holds charge. Mulitple cranks on it however, hurt it severely. With the coil relay, i touch the button, and she fires instantly. A must do if you havent already. I havent had it out on the highway yet, so i am curious to see if there is a marked change in feel with awesome voltage running to the coils. And we'll see soon enough. I also took a slight detour, and pulled the Cooley fairing off for the time being, and installed a smaller than most windshield. I want to see if i like it over the Red River trip. The Cooley fairing needed a lil body work anyway, and this will give me the chance to do it.

Next on the list will be SS brake lines, and while im doing that, i will rid myself of the splitter. Also, the headlight cut out relay as well. Paint is on the list as well, but it seems as tho every time i get the money gathered up to do this, some damn issue elsewhere in my life rears its head and steals the money away...Soooon i hope. Bare with me PaulyBoy! We shall do it ASAP.

And then...well...the battle in my head over what exactly to do next still rages. Do i keep it stock? Or do i slap my Vance and Hines pipe on it, some pods and make it mean? Still unsure...back and forth i go on that.